Cummins guy going Duramax, questions and what to expect?

Ant2093 · 11-12-2012, 05:42 PM

Picking up my first duramax this week, got it for cheap but it needs some work. The motor is pulled and the previous owner doesn't have time, money or the "know how" to fix it. Its got 220k on the clock, what should I do to the motor before I put it back in the truck? I will be pulling the injectors and sending them out to get tested. Should I trust the top end of the motor and leave it untouched? Like head gaskets and etc. I would prefer not to tear into that if I don't have to. I know on a cummins, if you install head studs one at a time opposed to taking all the head bolts out at once, you can get away with not messing with the head gasket. Will this work on a duramax? Anything else I should do/ look at motor wise?

As far as drive train goes, it has a new transfer case with the pump rub fix. I'm not worried about the transmission because as soon the truck runs and drives, a stage 5 ppe is getting installed. After I get it back on the road, the front end is going to get built as well along with exhaust, intake, gauges etc..

I already have a puller so this is going to be one that spends its time on the track. For now, I'm gonna stay with stock rods. What kind of mods will get me to the point of maxing out what they can handle? A guy near me laid down 750 on stock rods/pistons (yes I know that's like playing with fire)

Advice and tips are appreciated,
Thanks,
Eric

**chevylovinfordtech** · 11-12-2012, 05:46 PM

personally i wouldent go above 600hp on stock rods and pistons, but we need to know a few things here like what year is it and what mods if any have been done yet

bigjohn · 11-12-2012, 05:52 PM

Sounds like you have your bases covered.

The S.O.M. · 11-12-2012, 06:07 PM

750 is really really pushing the stock bottom end

Ant2093 · 11-12-2012, 06:08 PM

Its an 01 and its bone stock

**chevylovinfordtech** · 11-12-2012, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ant2093

Its an 01 and its bone stock

you have an lb7, you made a good call gettin the injectors tested, the lb7s are kown for injector failures, as far as other things idk much about lb7s hopefully aaron or 01_dmax will get on here

02 FL Duramax · 11-12-2012, 06:19 PM

Welcome to the forum

Ant2093 · 11-14-2012, 06:25 PM

Bump
Is there anything I should be worried about with the motor being already out of it? Main and rod bearings are getting replaced and I'll probably have to pull the heads off as well. Been tossing around the idea of picking up some carrillos for it. But having some second thoughts.
1. I buy a set of rods and install them, piece the motor back together and drop in it. I'm worried at the possibility that something else is or could be wrong with it. (Only cause I've never heard the engine run)
2. Put the engine back together with stock internals, run it for a bit and add the carrillos when I start making power. Id be out the price of head gaskets, again. Plus all the down time and labor of everything.
3. Ditch the original motor and buy a used running motor and build it up... that will probably be the most costly

There's no obvious problem with the original motor (no holes in block, no cracks, etc.) Owner had it pulled due to a failed wrist pin causing a knock. What do you guys think the smartest choice would be?

Since its all gonna be tore apart anyways, I plan on getting the pistons cut and a cam as well.

jacked-up_redneck · 11-15-2012, 09:07 AM

If you want that 750 mark get mahle pistons that are ceramic coated and run stock lmm rods which can hold up to more power, unless you have the $2700 for carrillo's. There are guys putting down 750 on single turbos in there pulling trucks but that's because of class restriction mostly and not cost the cost of twins.

Ant2093 · 11-15-2012, 10:31 AM

I doubt I'll go into the 750+ range. Gonna shoot for around 600-650. Id like to keep a single turbo, and a single cp3 for now.

11-12-2012, 05:42 PM	eBay Motors #1 (permalink)
Ant2093 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Bowling Green Ohio Posts: 41	Cummins guy going Duramax, questions and what to expect? Picking up my first duramax this week, got it for cheap but it needs some work. The motor is pulled and the previous owner doesn't have time, money or the "know how" to fix it. Its got 220k on the clock, what should I do to the motor before I put it back in the truck? I will be pulling the injectors and sending them out to get tested. Should I trust the top end of the motor and leave it untouched? Like head gaskets and etc. I would prefer not to tear into that if I don't have to. I know on a cummins, if you install head studs one at a time opposed to taking all the head bolts out at once, you can get away with not messing with the head gasket. Will this work on a duramax? Anything else I should do/ look at motor wise? As far as drive train goes, it has a new transfer case with the pump rub fix. I'm not worried about the transmission because as soon the truck runs and drives, a stage 5 ppe is getting installed. After I get it back on the road, the front end is going to get built as well along with exhaust, intake, gauges etc.. I already have a puller so this is going to be one that spends its time on the track. For now, I'm gonna stay with stock rods. What kind of mods will get me to the point of maxing out what they can handle? A guy near me laid down 750 on stock rods/pistons (yes I know that's like playing with fire) Advice and tips are appreciated, Thanks, Eric __________________ 01 Cummins QCLB 5sp 4x4: Some air, More fuel, Supporting mods, and a little bit of spray 01 LB7 CCSB 4x4: Work in progress. Last edited by Ant2093; 11-12-2012 at 06:27 PM.

11-12-2012, 05:46 PM	eBay Motors #2 (permalink)
chevylovinfordtech Duramax Forum Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Fortuna, CA Posts: 2,195	personally i wouldent go above 600hp on stock rods and pistons, but we need to know a few things here like what year is it and what mods if any have been done yet __________________ -Robert- 2005 4 door Silverado 2500 HD LLY Performance: AFE air box and LBZ mouthpiece mod, 4 in. MBRP dual exhaust, PPE shim kit, egr blocker plate, Airdog100, FASS fuel filter delete bowl, EFI live by Idaho Rob Exterior: Rear Reunel bumper, silvania ZXE headlights and fog lamps (all on mod), alligator performance tie-rod sleeves Interior: 2 12" memphis car audio subs, custom sealed box and 2000 watt memphis amp, LED interior, dash and door lights-blue, cobalt autometer pyro and boost piller gauges Best Time: 14.15 @ 91 mph 1.99 60 foot Work In Progress: 1969 Chevy Nova, built turbo 350, 283ci small block est. 500hp with 7500 rpm redlin, caltracs, 4.11 ford 9" rear end, dual 3"exhaust www.trollperformance.com

11-12-2012, 05:52 PM	eBay Motors #3 (permalink)
bigjohn DuramaxForum Enthusiast Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Pittsburgh Pa Posts: 2,125	Sounds like you have your bases covered. __________________ 2006 2500 HD SLT ECLB, LBZ, Bilstein shocks,Banks 4inch exhaust, Alligator Adp Cat filter. And S&B air intake good to be driving a diesel again. 2002 Chevy silverado 2500 HD, LB7, traded it on a gasser and then traded it in for LBZ.

11-12-2012, 06:07 PM	eBay Motors #4 (permalink)
The S.O.M. DuramaxForum Veteran Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: South Whitley, IN Posts: 1,231	750 is really really pushing the stock bottom end __________________ The Sound Of Madness 2004.5 LLY ECSB EFI Live, MA700 Trans, Airdog 2 165, MBRP 5" with 6” tip, Profab Downpipe, LML Manifold, LBZ Mouthpiece, AFE Stage 1 Intake, EGR Blocked, PCV Rerouted, Resonator Plugged, ADP Race Valve, MA Rear Housing Support, MA Pump Rub Fix, Rancho RS9000xl's, Amsoil Synthetics, Autometer Cobalt’s Boost & Pyro, Tint (5% back, 20% front), HID's, US Speedo Custom LED Gauge Cluster, Line-X’d rockers To Come!! : Profab EGR Delete 4094vvt 40% overs

11-12-2012, 06:08 PM	eBay Motors #5 (permalink)
Ant2093 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Bowling Green Ohio Posts: 41	Its an 01 and its bone stock __________________ 01 Cummins QCLB 5sp 4x4: Some air, More fuel, Supporting mods, and a little bit of spray 01 LB7 CCSB 4x4: Work in progress.

11-12-2012, 06:19 PM	eBay Motors #7 (permalink)
02 FL Duramax DuramaxForum Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Boynton Beach, FL Posts: 3,537	Welcome to the forum __________________ 02 CC LB LB7, PPE Hot, PPE Boost Valve, PPE Pitman/Idler Arm Support Kit, Fabtech HD Tie Rods, BD Exhaust Manifold, Ready Lift Leveling Kit, 285-75-16 BFG AT's LR E, Airaid Air Intake, Magnaflow 4" Exhaust, PIAA 580 Fog and Driving Lights, Modded Intake Horn, Kool Vue Mirrors, DDM HIDS 6K Low and 8K Highs, Firestone Airbags, Tekonsha P3, Nicktane with Cat www.huskerdiesel.com 402-502-6961 www.madjacksynthetics.com DMAXSTORE.COM, Your Duramax Diesel-Only Shopping Resource

11-14-2012, 06:25 PM	eBay Motors #8 (permalink)
Ant2093 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Bowling Green Ohio Posts: 41	Bump Is there anything I should be worried about with the motor being already out of it? Main and rod bearings are getting replaced and I'll probably have to pull the heads off as well. Been tossing around the idea of picking up some carrillos for it. But having some second thoughts. 1. I buy a set of rods and install them, piece the motor back together and drop in it. I'm worried at the possibility that something else is or could be wrong with it. (Only cause I've never heard the engine run) 2. Put the engine back together with stock internals, run it for a bit and add the carrillos when I start making power. Id be out the price of head gaskets, again. Plus all the down time and labor of everything. 3. Ditch the original motor and buy a used running motor and build it up... that will probably be the most costly There's no obvious problem with the original motor (no holes in block, no cracks, etc.) Owner had it pulled due to a failed wrist pin causing a knock. What do you guys think the smartest choice would be? Since its all gonna be tore apart anyways, I plan on getting the pistons cut and a cam as well. __________________ 01 Cummins QCLB 5sp 4x4: Some air, More fuel, Supporting mods, and a little bit of spray 01 LB7 CCSB 4x4: Work in progress. Last edited by Ant2093; 11-14-2012 at 06:29 PM.

11-15-2012, 09:07 AM	eBay Motors #9 (permalink)
jacked-up_redneck Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Boise, id Posts: 60	If you want that 750 mark get mahle pistons that are ceramic coated and run stock lmm rods which can hold up to more power, unless you have the $2700 for carrillo's. There are guys putting down 750 on single turbos in there pulling trucks but that's because of class restriction mostly and not cost the cost of twins. __________________ DD: 2002 gmc lb7 ccsb, 6" rcd lift, rolling dunlop mts, 5" mbrp turbo back, efi live by idaho rob, banks cold air, Airdog 150, Ppe oil centrifuge, Udp fuel filter adapter with 1 micron filter, Ppe boost valve, Profab dp, manifolds/up pipes, and intake horn, Custom trac bars, bt diesel works tapshift, batmowheel

11-15-2012, 10:31 AM	eBay Motors #10 (permalink)
Ant2093 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Bowling Green Ohio Posts: 41	I doubt I'll go into the 750+ range. Gonna shoot for around 600-650. Id like to keep a single turbo, and a single cp3 for now. __________________ 01 Cummins QCLB 5sp 4x4: Some air, More fuel, Supporting mods, and a little bit of spray 01 LB7 CCSB 4x4: Work in progress.

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