Need to change coolant - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
01-04.5 LB7 Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect

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Old 08-23-2009, 01:34 PM   eBay Motors  #1 (permalink)
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Need to change coolant

My DIC says coolant low so im just going to flush it since it has 99k on it and idk when it was changed last. What do i do to change it? Just pull upper and lower rad hose and let her drain out? Then how much dec cool do i put back in?
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:46 PM   eBay Motors  #2 (permalink)
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I know the lb7's have a petcock on the passenger side of the radiator on the bottom. loosen that, pull lower rad hose, loosen coolant tank. once it stops id fill it with distilled water, and drain again.
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:58 PM   eBay Motors  #3 (permalink)
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is it on the very bottom of the radiator to the right of the lower radiator hose?

how much do you think it will take to fill? and what do you use to keep it from going every where? especially the top rad hose?
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:59 PM   eBay Motors  #4 (permalink)
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or do i not pull upper hose?
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Old 08-23-2009, 03:01 PM   eBay Motors  #5 (permalink)
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shouldn't need to pull the top hose....
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Old 08-23-2009, 03:12 PM   eBay Motors  #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondarider552 View Post
I know the lb7's have a petcock on the passenger side of the radiator on the bottom.

Quote:
Originally Posted by strokethis03 View Post
is it on the very bottom of the radiator to the right of the lower radiator hose?

how much do you think it will take to fill? and what do you use to keep it from going every where? especially the top rad hose?

it will be about 3-4 gallons that will come out of the petcock.
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Old 08-24-2009, 11:17 AM   eBay Motors  #7 (permalink)
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Have you thought of using EVANS waterless coolant? Boiling temp is over 300 degress....
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Old 08-24-2009, 11:35 AM   eBay Motors  #8 (permalink)
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Also when you fill it there is a bleeder bolt on top of the thermostat housing. Pull it out while you fill it, and when fluid starts running out without any bubbles, close it and top off the system.
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Old 08-25-2009, 12:07 AM   eBay Motors  #9 (permalink)
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If it where me I would remove the upper and lower rad hose as well as the thermostat and drain the coolant. Then run water through the radiator and engine block. Then reinstall upper and lower rad hose as well as thermostat (might want to get new one) and fill with water. Start motor and let it run till thermostat opens than drain. Refill with coolant and your good to go!

That dexcool starts to gum up over time so its good to get it all out of the motor. If you do all that I would switch to the green stuff. That is alot better and wont give you any problems.
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Old 08-25-2009, 04:20 AM   eBay Motors  #10 (permalink)
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Problems with Green?

None....just as long as you're back at it to flush and fill every 25-30k miles, and have absolutely no Dex left in the system to mix with it. All water based coolants will break down and have detrimental effects on internal components if left unchecked. Green has itís corrosive properties also.

Draining 1/3 to 1/2 of the system's total 6 gallons, filling with water, running up to operating temperature, and draining again, then topping off with fresh coolant will not achieve complete replacement of coolant. You also wonít have the proper 50/50 mix.

It will however be far better than the toasted 90k mile fluid that was there before. Dropping the lower hose and pulling both engine block coolant drain plugs, flushing the system, and replacing with the proper level (6-gallons) of 50/50 mix will provide a complete service of the system.

AND, if you decide to change coolant types, this procedure will give you no problems with interaction between incompatible coolants mixed together, with 'Evans' being the exception (no water used in flushing).
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