Need to change coolant

strokethis03 · 08-23-2009, 01:34 PM

My DIC says coolant low so im just going to flush it since it has 99k on it and idk when it was changed last. What do i do to change it? Just pull upper and lower rad hose and let her drain out? Then how much dec cool do i put back in?

Hondarider552 · 08-23-2009, 01:46 PM

I know the lb7's have a petcock on the passenger side of the radiator on the bottom. loosen that, pull lower rad hose, loosen coolant tank. once it stops id fill it with distilled water, and drain again.

strokethis03 · 08-23-2009, 01:58 PM

is it on the very bottom of the radiator to the right of the lower radiator hose?

how much do you think it will take to fill? and what do you use to keep it from going every where? especially the top rad hose?

strokethis03 · 08-23-2009, 01:59 PM

or do i not pull upper hose?

K9Duramax · 08-23-2009, 03:01 PM

shouldn't need to pull the top hose....

Hondarider552 · 08-23-2009, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondarider552

I know the lb7's have a petcock on the passenger side of the radiator on the bottom.

Quote:

Originally Posted by strokethis03

is it on the very bottom of the radiator to the right of the lower radiator hose?

how much do you think it will take to fill? and what do you use to keep it from going every where? especially the top rad hose?

it will be about 3-4 gallons that will come out of the petcock.

**1953drtelco** · 08-24-2009, 11:17 AM

Have you thought of using EVANS waterless coolant? Boiling temp is over 300 degress....

mijdirtyjeep · 08-24-2009, 11:35 AM

Also when you fill it there is a bleeder bolt on top of the thermostat housing. Pull it out while you fill it, and when fluid starts running out without any bubbles, close it and top off the system.

**Tow Master** · 08-25-2009, 12:07 AM

If it where me I would remove the upper and lower rad hose as well as the thermostat and drain the coolant. Then run water through the radiator and engine block. Then reinstall upper and lower rad hose as well as thermostat (might want to get new one) and fill with water. Start motor and let it run till thermostat opens than drain. Refill with coolant and your good to go!

That dexcool starts to gum up over time so its good to get it all out of the motor. If you do all that I would switch to the green stuff. That is alot better and wont give you any problems.

**Hook'em_Horns!** · 08-25-2009, 04:20 AM

None....just as long as you're back at it to flush and fill every 25-30k miles, and have absolutely no Dex left in the system to mix with it. All water based coolants will break down and have detrimental effects on internal components if left unchecked. Green has it’s corrosive properties also.

Draining 1/3 to 1/2 of the system's total 6 gallons, filling with water, running up to operating temperature, and draining again, then topping off with fresh coolant will not achieve complete replacement of coolant. You also won’t have the proper 50/50 mix.

It will however be far better than the toasted 90k mile fluid that was there before. Dropping the lower hose and pulling both engine block coolant drain plugs, flushing the system, and replacing with the proper level (6-gallons) of 50/50 mix will provide a complete service of the system.

AND, if you decide to change coolant types, this procedure will give you no problems with interaction between incompatible coolants mixed together, with 'Evans' being the exception (no water used in flushing).

08-23-2009, 01:34 PM	eBay Motors #1 (permalink)
strokethis03 DuramaxForum Veteran Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tampa Fl Posts: 1,072	Need to change coolant My DIC says coolant low so im just going to flush it since it has 99k on it and idk when it was changed last. What do i do to change it? Just pull upper and lower rad hose and let her drain out? Then how much dec cool do i put back in? __________________ SOLD TRUCK: 2003 Silverado 2500HD, Ext Cab, Short Bed TUNER:Quadzilla On 90Hp EXHAUST:4 Inch Straight Pipe, INTAKE:K&N CAI With Amsoil Filter And Intake Horn Mod WHEELS:18 Inch Ultra 248 (Black) TIRES:285/65/18 Nitto Terra Grapplers EXTERIOR:Blacked Out Bumpers and Black Diamond Plate Tool Box With Black Bow Tie, Black Nerf Bars. 06 Style Tow Mirrors, De-Badged SOLD 2006 Chrysler 300c Hemi STOCK!!!!

08-23-2009, 01:58 PM	eBay Motors #3 (permalink)
strokethis03 DuramaxForum Veteran Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tampa Fl Posts: 1,072	is it on the very bottom of the radiator to the right of the lower radiator hose? how much do you think it will take to fill? and what do you use to keep it from going every where? especially the top rad hose? __________________ SOLD TRUCK: 2003 Silverado 2500HD, Ext Cab, Short Bed TUNER:Quadzilla On 90Hp EXHAUST:4 Inch Straight Pipe, INTAKE:K&N CAI With Amsoil Filter And Intake Horn Mod WHEELS:18 Inch Ultra 248 (Black) TIRES:285/65/18 Nitto Terra Grapplers EXTERIOR:Blacked Out Bumpers and Black Diamond Plate Tool Box With Black Bow Tie, Black Nerf Bars. 06 Style Tow Mirrors, De-Badged SOLD 2006 Chrysler 300c Hemi STOCK!!!!

08-23-2009, 01:59 PM	eBay Motors #4 (permalink)
strokethis03 DuramaxForum Veteran Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tampa Fl Posts: 1,072	or do i not pull upper hose? __________________ SOLD TRUCK: 2003 Silverado 2500HD, Ext Cab, Short Bed TUNER:Quadzilla On 90Hp EXHAUST:4 Inch Straight Pipe, INTAKE:K&N CAI With Amsoil Filter And Intake Horn Mod WHEELS:18 Inch Ultra 248 (Black) TIRES:285/65/18 Nitto Terra Grapplers EXTERIOR:Blacked Out Bumpers and Black Diamond Plate Tool Box With Black Bow Tie, Black Nerf Bars. 06 Style Tow Mirrors, De-Badged SOLD 2006 Chrysler 300c Hemi STOCK!!!!

08-23-2009, 03:01 PM	eBay Motors #5 (permalink)
K9Duramax DuramaxForum Veteran Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: West Central Iowa Posts: 1,226	shouldn't need to pull the top hose.... __________________ '05 CC/SB, AMSOIL 15w-40 (From Synthetic Motorsports), Cold Air Intake with a dry Nanofiber filter from AMSOIL, PPE Tuner level 1, EGR blocked, LBZ MP, lost KITTY, finished off the rest with 4" SS Magnaflow, Amsoil Torque Drive, 5K HID's, General Grabbers 265 :rockin Synthetic Motorsports

08-24-2009, 11:17 AM	eBay Motors #7 (permalink)
1953drtelco Duramax Lifetime Supporter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 1,897	Have you thought of using EVANS waterless coolant? Boiling temp is over 300 degress.... __________________ 2005 HD2500 Silverado 2WD EC LB (FE9 - Federal Emissions) 91K miles Goodyear Wranglers 265/70R/17, LBZ mouthpiece upgrade, BD Exhaust, MBRP DP, Banks Ram-Air with SuperScoop ,4" SS Corsa Exhaust System w/gutted kitty, Amsoil Dual Oil Bypass Filtration, Aux Radiator (Engineer 837) installed, Firestone Air Bags, Allison extra capacity Tranny pan, MagHytec Rear Diff Cover, Synthetic Fluids ...Mike L tranny cooler) 2008 Towing Mirrors with Leveling MOD, PCV reroute, Fumoto Valve, Mad Jacks fuel fiter access door. Running 2% BioDiesel with Optilube XPD,TTS dual lift pumps with Nictane Aux Fuel Filtration. EFI (Tuned ECM from Duramaxtuner) Edge Insight CTS to control the tunes And the best part of all, no payments and title in hand

08-23-2009, 01:46 PM	eBay Motors #2 (permalink)
Hondarider552 Banned Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Arizona Posts: 17,269	I know the lb7's have a petcock on the passenger side of the radiator on the bottom. loosen that, pull lower rad hose, loosen coolant tank. once it stops id fill it with distilled water, and drain again.

08-24-2009, 11:35 AM	eBay Motors #8 (permalink)
mijdirtyjeep DuramaxForum Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Beer Tent Capital of the World Posts: 4,568	Also when you fill it there is a bleeder bolt on top of the thermostat housing. Pull it out while you fill it, and when fluid starts running out without any bubbles, close it and top off the system. __________________ Jim __________________________________________________ _ 2003 Chevy 2500hd crew cab 4x4, D/A Just a few aftermarket goodies

08-25-2009, 12:07 AM	eBay Motors #9 (permalink)
Tow Master Oh...... Squirrel! Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Irwin PA Posts: 23,035	If it where me I would remove the upper and lower rad hose as well as the thermostat and drain the coolant. Then run water through the radiator and engine block. Then reinstall upper and lower rad hose as well as thermostat (might want to get new one) and fill with water. Start motor and let it run till thermostat opens than drain. Refill with coolant and your good to go! That dexcool starts to gum up over time so its good to get it all out of the motor. If you do all that I would switch to the green stuff. That is alot better and wont give you any problems. __________________ Jason 2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ CC SB Exterior: Escalade Handles, Front windows tinted to match the rear, painted bumpers & mirrors, billet grille, 285/70/17 Nitto Crossteks on Pro Comp Wheels, Cognito Braces, Stainless Sleeves, Train Horns Interior: 4 Kicker 10in Subs in 2 custom box's, Autometer Ultra lite II Pyro and Boost gauges, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge, HID Lows & Fogs, Painted accents Performance: EFI Live Tuned by Blackout Performance, Custom *Blackout Performance* S475 over stock twins, 45 over stock injectors, MBRP Turbo Back Stainless Exhaust (Straight piped), Raptor Lift Pump, AFE Filter, GMAX6 kit with Suncoast 1057 converter installed by *Blackout Performance* 1999 Ford F-550 PowerStroke ''Wrecker'' **Jerrdan bed, S&B Intake

08-25-2009, 04:20 AM	eBay Motors #10 (permalink)
Hook'em_Horns! LHN...We ARE the Joneses Join Date: May 2008 Location: Awww-stin, TX Posts: 8,410	Problems with Green? None....just as long as you're back at it to flush and fill every 25-30k miles, and have absolutely no Dex left in the system to mix with it. All water based coolants will break down and have detrimental effects on internal components if left unchecked. Green has it’s corrosive properties also. Draining 1/3 to 1/2 of the system's total 6 gallons, filling with water, running up to operating temperature, and draining again, then topping off with fresh coolant will not achieve complete replacement of coolant. You also won’t have the proper 50/50 mix. It will however be far better than the toasted 90k mile fluid that was there before. Dropping the lower hose and pulling both engine block coolant drain plugs, flushing the system, and replacing with the proper level (6-gallons) of 50/50 mix will provide a complete service of the system. AND, if you decide to change coolant types, this procedure will give you no problems with interaction between incompatible coolants mixed together, with 'Evans' being the exception (no water used in flushing). __________________ 2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob 2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air, Sulastics *Use-ta Haves* 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"

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