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fuel level sensor?

110K views 57 replies 22 participants last post by  L.R.S.  
#1 ·
Does anyone have the part number for this?

It throws a code but I don't remember what it was, high voltage sensor something. The gauge is always on E and the low fuel light is always on except when I clear the code, then the gauge goes to completely full.

Also how does one go about changing this?
It's been out since 2006 sometime.
 
#3 ·
What part are you needing?
 

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#4 ·
Good question.
Code is p0463 if that helps any.
 
#5 ·
P0463


CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The fuel level sender changes resistance based on fuel level. The PCM monitors the signal circuit of the fuel level sender in order to determine fuel level. When the fuel tank is full, the sender resistance is high and the PCM senses a high signal voltage. When the fuel tank is empty, the sender resistance is low and the PCM senses a low signal voltage. The PCM uses the signal circuit of the fuel level sender in order to calculate the total remaining fuel %) in the tank. The PCM sends the fuel level percent via the class 2 serial data circuit to the instrument cluster in order to control the fuel gauge. The fuel level information is also used for misfire and EVAP diagnostics.

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC
The ignition is ON.

CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC

* The fuel level signal is greater than 98% .
* The above condition is present for greater than 20 seconds .

ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS

* The fuel gauge defaults to empty.
* The low fuel indicator illuminates.
* The PCM records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The PCM displays the failure information in the Failure Records on the scan tool.

CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE DTC

* The DTC becomes history when the conditions for setting the DTC are no longer present.
* The history DTC clears after 40 malfunction free warm-up cycles.
* The PCM receives the clear code command from the scan tool.
 
#6 ·
That would be number 8 in that pic.....I took as you had it apart for along time and wanted to replace everything.....sorry.

Its 100 bones on gmpartsdirect.com
 
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#8 ·
No sir I've just been filling up every 325 miles since then.

Ok thanks a lot.
 
#9 ·
my fuel level has been f'ed for over a year now. I am driving cross country and would like to have it fixed. i cross referenced he4 GM part number that was listed above because no parts stores had it locally. They came up with a DORMAN part 911-005 but it doesnt like the 6.6l on there only the 6.0 and 8.1. They also said that they couldnt find a part number even in GM for the diesel replacement one and that I would need to replace the WHOLE pump and sender.
So my question is: is the 6.0L sender the same thing as the duramax one? its sure looks the same and if it is its a hell of a lot cheaper at 22.99! Any input would be awesome!
 
#11 ·
Bump anyone know if the 6.0l sender is the same or if it will fit? Please let me know! Thanks again
 
#12 ·
well after some modification I now have a fuel gauge again! And the best part is it was only 22 dollars!! Dorman part # 911-005 I had to drill out the factory brass pivot on the sender and pull out the old sweeper board ( the thing with 2 blue wires coming off of it) Then I took a chisel and heated the tip and melted the plastic pieces on the sender body so they were flush. I then took a piece of 1/16th steel about 1 inch wide and riveted it to the sender body. I then riveted the new sensor sweeper to the plate you just put on. I had to trim the plastic around the sensor a little to fit it back in the tank. But all in all it works great and it was cheap!!. I was going to do a DIY writeuo but I forgot my camera and by the time i realized it I already had the tank out. Any questions let me know and I can try and help!
 
#13 ·
I'm probably going to fix mine this weekend if it stays dry. I would really rather not drop the tank especially with the airdog lines covering me in diesel. Is it alraight to remove the bed? Seems a lot cleaner that way.
 
#14 ·
Oh yeah removing the bed is the easier option for sure but I didn't have anyone to commit to hanging around to help mr take it off and on or I would have gone that route as well!! It will be a LOT easier!! Good luck and leg me know if you need any help!
 
#15 ·
Alright man thanks. So I'm guessing all that is involved is remove the wires for the taillights then unbolt it and lift it up? Then powerwash the tank top and get in there.
Removing the bed will give me an opportunity to realign it some. Bed is about half an inch high towards the cab.

While I'm in there, is it worth drilling out the basket like airdog says to do? What about kennedy's billet pickup fitting??

Maybe that would help my low rail pressure at WOT
 
#17 ·
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#18 ·
ah just give it a shot. Worst thing thats gonna happen is the gauge wont work! haha and you and I both know that its already not working! Thats the way I looked at it! You probably wont be able to return the other one now anyways since its been like 5 months simce you bought it! Just drill out the brass rivet thing on the old sensor and take something flat and heat it up and melt the plastic raised areas smooth. Then take a small 1.5x1.5 inch piece of 1/16 inch steel and rivet that to the sender body in rhe same spot the old sensor was in then rivet the new sensor to the steel you just put on! You will have to use the old float arm and chances are you wont be able to put the arm on till its the sender is in the tank. So have someone with small steady hands ready! You can do this, I did it no problem!!
 
#20 ·
Yea good point haha Ill try it tonight
 
#21 ·
Dealership told me that for the '02 trucks when they replace the sending unit, they use a different one that isnt just one unit.
Anybody got info on this?
 
#22 ·
Dealer wants $600 for the part and wont give me the parts number :rolleyes:
 
#23 ·
Don't pay 600. Thats for damn sure! haha just order the one i did and mod it. Its really not that hard. I will walk you through it. If you have a grinder, rivet gun and some ingenuity you will be just fine! Hell you could buy a grinder, buy a rivet gun and the dorman part and still be more than 200 or more less then what you would buy a new sensor for and thats if you buy a nice grinder and rivet gun!
 
#24 ·
So thanks to Monstermax' advise I now have a working fuel guage again!!! And yes the easiest way to get to the fuel tank is to take the bed off (thats if your goose neck ball is'nt rusted on to the bed!!!). The only thing i did different was, I used a dremal tool to flatten out the plastic pieces on the sender body, I also used a 24GA piece of metal, real thin but strong enough. I had one question though.... what do I do with the other wires/harness that the Dorman 911-005 comes with? and once again Monstermax came to the rescue!! just use the old harness by taking out the blue wires from the old harness with a small screw driver or pick and replace with the purple wires on the new sensor (so no splicing and saves some time!!). Im not sure if it was the size of metal that i used, but i didnt have any problems putting the unit in with the float already attached. The only thing i did wrong was mounted the new sensor the "wrong" way... it still reads right but had to bend the float to make it work (atleast ill know when im getting low on fuel, but will be marking full for a while after filling up) so make sure to mount the sweeper board the same way the old one was. All in all it works great!!! and the best part saved a ton of money!!!!! Im not sure on how to post pics, so if I can get some help on that ill put a couple of what I did.

Andrew
2002 lb7 CC/SB 2500HD
 
#25 ·
Thanks for the props man! Glad it worked out for ya! Yeah If i had used thinner metal mine would have cleared as well, but I always go overboard and in this case it was unnecessary! Glad to hear it man! And to put pictures on use photobucket, or tinypic or something like that and copy and past the image code and put that code in your response and it will show the pics!