|04.5-05 LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect|
| ||LinkBack||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
|08-07-2011, 07:39 AM||eBay Motors #1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Bethlehem, Pa
Changing out engine block heater
My engine block heater gasket is bad and before i change it out im wondering if anybody has some helpfull hints what to watch out for before i get my hands involved in this.
|08-07-2011, 10:50 PM||eBay Motors #2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Irwin PA
I never heard of them having a gasket. Whats your problem?
2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ CC SB
Exterior: Escalade Handles, Front windows tinted to match the rear, painted bumpers & mirrors, billet grille, 305/50/20 Cooper Zeons on BMF Novakanes Death Metal, Cognito Braces, Stainless Sleeves, Train Horns
Interior: 4 Kicker 10in Subs in 2 custom box's, Autometer Ultra lite II Pyro and Boost gauges, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge, HID Lows & Fogs, Painted accents
Performance: EFI Live Tuned by Blackout Performance, Custom Blackout Performance S475 over stock twins, 45 over stock injectors, MBRP Turbo Back Stainless Exhaust (Straight piped), Raptor Lift Pump, AFE Filter, GMAX6 kit with Suncoast 1057 converter installed by Blackout Performance
1999 Ford F-550 PowerStroke ''Wrecker'' **Jerrdan bed, S&B Intake
|09-21-2011, 08:46 PM||eBay Motors #3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Calgary Canada
Just changed mine tonight. It was shorted to ground and was blowing the breaker instantly when plugged in. Bought a new cord to test, and that one would short to ground instantly too. Knew it was the block heater. Heater was leaking right where the electrical prongs are soldered into the heater. You could see the coolant weeping there.
I was ready to remove the passenger side engine mounts while supporting the engine from beneath to get at it (the GM recommended procedure...mostly designed to separate customers from their money), but another guy on a forum said he didn't have to, so I thought I'd try without removing the engine mounts, but ready to do so.
I found that it is not necessary on a NBS (GMT900) duramax LMM to remove the engine mounts to replace the block heater. Note, the GM part is made in CHINA. I didn't want to use it but I had it handy just in case. It is double the cost of the made in Canada "Temro" brand that I wanted to use, which I also had on hand because I'll always favor north american made. Anyhow the plug portion of the heater (that the element is mounted into) comes in 2 configurations. Think of a manhole cover. What stops the cover from dropping through the hole, I'm calling a "flange". That flange goes all the way around on the Temro and on the GM part, the flange consists of 3 "Tabs" (one each at 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00) that prevent the heater from pushing through into the block.
The GM style makes it possible to get the heater past the aluminum heat shield on the engine mounts (the shield is proud of the engine mount by 1/4"). I used a die grinder on the heat shield to remove a 1/4" from the heat shield so I could get the Temro in. However, I found that the factory thermostatically controlled block heater plug wouldn't plug into the temro heater. These trucks are rumored to throw a code if you heat the coolant above freezing temps, making retention of the thermostat plug (and the GM heater) necessary.
Anyhow, that's why I had to use the GM part. Temro would be a better heater (since it's made in Canada rather than China, and it's half the price of the chinese part), and Temro does sell the thermostat plug/wire separately. Anyhow, here's what I did.
1. Jack up the truck and raise the passenger side front wheel off the ground, supporting with jackstands.
2. remove the passenger side front wheel.
3. remove inner fender well.
4. remove plastic fenderwell mount at front of fenderwell by pulling 2 plastic push connectors. (It's kind of below the lower rad hose and would cause a mess because the coolant would drain onto it if not removed)
5. remove lower radiator hose by pulling large spring clip out and pulling hose towards rear of truck. about 14L of coolant came out.
6. using a small metric hex (male) socket (4mm, to be exact), thread out the toggle bolt on the block heater and pry gently until you can break it loose. Pry gently until both retaining "wings" bend back enough to get the unit out. Look at the new block heater to get a feel for how these retainers work. Do not fully remove the bolt, otherwise the wings will drop into the engine block, potentially blocking a coolant passage or getting into your water pump and fragging it.
7. Clean/sand/debur the opening in the block making sure it is perfect to ensure a perfect seal.
8. Apply GM all purpose high temp grease to the O-ring mounted on the new block heater and shimmy it back in. (If using a full-flanged heater, use a die grinder or dremel to remove excess heat shield in the way. If using the triple tab style, don't worry about it).
9. Install block heater and torque to spec (in block heater instructions). The spec is really low, like 18 inch pounds or something very small like that. Don't quote me on this.
10. Plug in block heater to a cord that you know is good.
11. Re-install lower rad hose/clip
12. fill coolant through recovery bottle.
13. if you get air in the system, you can bleed it through the bleed screw located in the top of the thermostat housing. This is under the upper mount for your oil fill hole. It is the only bolt that doesn't hold anything down.
14. consider changing your fuel filter at this time. It's right there. Dang it, I didn't have one on the shelf and it was too late to get one.
Job well done, and saved my self $600 in labor according to my local GM Stealership.
- 07.5 Sierra 2500HD CC/SB Z71 - Bone Stock (except for 250w wolverine oil pan heater)
- 09 Honda Odyssey (Wife's)
- 75 Bronco - Restored
- 08 BMW K1200S
Last edited by Jim_in_Calgary; 09-21-2011 at 08:55 PM.