LLY overheating? Read This!

[MTL_Dmax]

Originally Posted by terryk

Is the loss of boost pressure due to the EGR being pushed opened or just the valve leaking (but seated)?

Could be either case but in order to keep EGTs down you need to get as much air in there as possible (ie boost pressure) and the EGR is working against you in that respect if it blows open or leaks.

[MTL_Dmax]

Originally Posted by Engineer837

I did not intend for this to an aux cooler vs oil cooler discussion. Both have had positive results. I am currently working on a project that will address both. The other mods like tranny coolers, cai's, turbo MP's, tuning, deleted cats etc will improve longevity, driveability and may help coolant temps and oil temps some but they have nowhere near the effect that direct cooling on either fliud.

You are correct Mtl in that oil and coolant temps are not the only issues to be addressed. They are just the most in your face issues at first.

Joe, can't wait to see what you come up with for addressing both oil and coolant solutions.

[Diesel lineman]

I added aem intake , afe blade runner turbo mp and 4 inch mbrp exhaust and down pipe and noooooo problems. (knocking on coffee table )

[terryk]

Originally Posted by MTL_Dmax

Could be either case but in order to keep EGTs down you need to get as much air in there as possible (ie boost pressure) and the EGR is working against you in that respect if it blows open or leaks.

From what I am reading, leaking seems to be more of a problem than being forced open. I might as well remove mine and see how it looks after 91k.

[Engineer837]

Originally Posted by Diesel lineman

I added aem intake , afe blade runner turbo mp and 4 inch mbrp exhaust and down pipe and noooooo problems. (knocking on coffee table )

Depending on your application, you may not. There are many factors affecting overheating in our trucks including application. Many people tow at max gvw in stock trucks without overheating, the just tow very slowly. Some trucks overheat more easily than others and some see higher temps in the upper end and some see higher temps in the lower end.

The best thing you can do is be diligent about monitoring all fluid temps and make adjustments as necessary. Don't waste money on fixes you don't need. Use that money to take the Mrs. out once in a while so she'll let you buy the "fixes" you want.

[dlhovland]

I bought killer bee"s Intake kit. I does help the engine breath better. When I was towing my 14000# toy hauler there was no point in going over 2400 rpm. Engine didnt make any more power just noise. After the installe it would pull hard all the way to redline. I never overheated but the the fan ran all the time. Full lock up on the clutch fan. My intake temps at the MAF would read 160 degreas or higher. Rember the fan takes a lot of power to run. Then I installed Joes radiator on my my GMC. Now when pulling my 14000# parachute (LOL) the fan rarely runs. When it engages it is only for a minute or 2. I am happy I did this mode.

[2500-HD]

dude all ya need is nos...fog yer radiator instead of yer intercooler

[pbarone_iv]

i really wish someone had more definite proven repair/improvement for the fan clutch noise nightmare. If I wanted to drive 20 hours sounding like a MAC truck, I would have purchased one. The first time it happened it scared the belt loops off my new jeans! I had no clue what had happened. I am now not looking forward to towing ever again, even though this year coming up will be the reason i purchased the truck in the first place... lots of towing my enclosed car hauler.

[Diesel lineman]

Has anyone tried the larger intercooler pipes. Just curious

[2500-HD]

how heavy is the trailer loaded? at the bear minimum you should do the mouthpiece mod, be it the LBZ or the aFe.