Squeeling metal sound at startup

Drewsdmax · 12-09-2012, 09:04 PM

Hey guys, this problem just started happening. Its only when the truck is cold and it only happens for about 2-3 seconds when i first initially start it. The engines cranks over just fine, and runs for about 1-2 seconds then i hear this awful screeching/ metal on metal sound for like 1-3 second. It seems like it happens as soon as the vanes in the turbo open and start to spool ( I think), almost like the turbine is hitting to housing, but then goes away completely after that. I took my mouthpiece off and checked the shaft play and it seemed fine, a little side to side play, and no front to back. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but i'm almost 90% sure its turbo related. Although i did read a lot of info about "starter grind" but i don't think its that??? Any pointers would be helpful. thanks

brandon41582 · 12-09-2012, 09:36 PM

Just a stab in the dark cause im still learning here.... but possibly a belt or pulley maybe? I say this cause I had an old explorer that had a pulley going out and it would sound like freddy kreuger scratching the chalk board with his knives for alittle while then it would stop just about the time I made it to work. Go figure hahaha.
I really don't know enough about the turbo to help out any if that's it sorry bud.

DMAXchris · 12-10-2012, 07:31 AM

Sounds like the belt.

2300Hz · 12-10-2012, 09:34 AM

How many miles? 100k seems to be the suspect number for when the tensioner and idler pulleys go bad.

Drewsdmax · 12-10-2012, 01:49 PM

It's got 173xxx miles. The belt and tensioner hey??? I'll take a look at it, will there be any excessive play or tell tale signs? I took a video of the sound, so I'll try and post it later when I get home, thanks for the pointers.

2300Hz · 12-10-2012, 04:32 PM

Take the tension off the belt and slip the belt off of the tensioner and idler pulleys. Give them all a spin by hand and see how they feel. If any of them are binding up or have a lot of slop, then they're going bad.

One of my idlers completely froze up and burned my belt in half one morning on the way to work. Not much fun driving around without power steering or power brakes

Hopefully that is your issue and nothing more expensive. Pulleys can be found at Napa for a descent price if that ends up being what you need.

chevy71pickupman · 12-10-2012, 04:52 PM

If the idler pulleys are fine check your alternator. The back bearing in alternators can do the same thing when they start to go bad.

Drewsdmax · 12-10-2012, 06:41 PM

hopefully the link works...

like i said, it only makes the sound for a split second. I did take a look at the belt, and it does seem a bit loose, but i haven't removed it yet. Do i just loosen off the tensioner to take the belt off? thanks

IMG_1065.mp4 video by andrewc56 | Photobucket

**2500-HD** · 12-10-2012, 06:46 PM

sounds almost like the vanes on the turbine side, does it do this when it cycles at a traffic light or when you let off the throttle?

brandon41582 · 12-10-2012, 06:53 PM

It does sound like it happens when the turbo hisses almost like the vanes need to be oiled or something.

12-09-2012, 09:04 PM	eBay Motors #1 (permalink)
Drewsdmax Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 129	Squeeling metal sound at startup Hey guys, this problem just started happening. Its only when the truck is cold and it only happens for about 2-3 seconds when i first initially start it. The engines cranks over just fine, and runs for about 1-2 seconds then i hear this awful screeching/ metal on metal sound for like 1-3 second. It seems like it happens as soon as the vanes in the turbo open and start to spool ( I think), almost like the turbine is hitting to housing, but then goes away completely after that. I took my mouthpiece off and checked the shaft play and it seemed fine, a little side to side play, and no front to back. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but i'm almost 90% sure its turbo related. Although i did read a lot of info about "starter grind" but i don't think its that??? Any pointers would be helpful. thanks __________________ 2005 GMC Crew Cab SLT, Built Trans, EFI Live with DSP5 (Thanks Rob!), Gauges, AFE MP, Banks Ram Air w/ Scoop! PCV re-route, EGR deleted, PPE rail plug, Diamond Eye DP, 4" Banks straight pipe Exhaust, AD II 165, Leveled with Bilstien 5100's, Cognito UCA and pitman/Idler support, Rare parts Tie rods, Firestone air bags, Pump Rub Kit, Hellwig BIG WIG rear SB and HID's.

12-09-2012, 09:36 PM	eBay Motors #2 (permalink)
brandon41582 Junior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Groves, Tx Posts: 177	Just a stab in the dark cause im still learning here.... but possibly a belt or pulley maybe? I say this cause I had an old explorer that had a pulley going out and it would sound like freddy kreuger scratching the chalk board with his knives for alittle while then it would stop just about the time I made it to work. Go figure hahaha. I really don't know enough about the turbo to help out any if that's it sorry bud. __________________ 2006 Chevrolet CC/SB 2500HD Leveled Toyo A/T Open Country 33's Resonator Plugged S&B CAI blocker plate & Fingerstick 5"mbrp turbo back w/muff Efi Live by Rob Hornblasters 540 conductors special Last edited by brandon41582; 12-09-2012 at 09:40 PM.

12-10-2012, 07:31 AM	eBay Motors #3 (permalink)
DMAXchris Longbeds FTW Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Natrona Heights, PA Posts: 13,271	Sounds like the belt. __________________ 06 Dmax/Allison EC/LB 4x4 TTS PowerLoader III • full billet Bully Dog stage 7 • BCI 7" intake with custom snorkle • fender vents • quintuplet shotgun cat stacks • 22" Rockstars • Huge "Dirtymax" sticker • -60% nozzles • extra pcv with dual catch cans • compounded EGR • silencer ring MIA • 4.56 gears • Lowered 5.5" in the back • Lifted 6" in the front • Monster sticker • flat bill mod • 8' CB whip • blacked out reverse lights • gauges everywhere 08 BMW 528xi 00 Buick Regal GS

12-10-2012, 09:34 AM	eBay Motors #4 (permalink)
2300Hz Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Altoona, PA Posts: 232	How many miles? 100k seems to be the suspect number for when the tensioner and idler pulleys go bad. __________________ 2005 Silverado LT 3500 SRW CC LB 6" SuperLift, 315/75/16, LBZ MP, EGR Blocked

12-10-2012, 01:49 PM	eBay Motors #5 (permalink)
Drewsdmax Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 129	It's got 173xxx miles. The belt and tensioner hey??? I'll take a look at it, will there be any excessive play or tell tale signs? I took a video of the sound, so I'll try and post it later when I get home, thanks for the pointers. __________________ 2005 GMC Crew Cab SLT, Built Trans, EFI Live with DSP5 (Thanks Rob!), Gauges, AFE MP, Banks Ram Air w/ Scoop! PCV re-route, EGR deleted, PPE rail plug, Diamond Eye DP, 4" Banks straight pipe Exhaust, AD II 165, Leveled with Bilstien 5100's, Cognito UCA and pitman/Idler support, Rare parts Tie rods, Firestone air bags, Pump Rub Kit, Hellwig BIG WIG rear SB and HID's.

12-10-2012, 04:32 PM	eBay Motors #6 (permalink)
2300Hz Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Altoona, PA Posts: 232	Take the tension off the belt and slip the belt off of the tensioner and idler pulleys. Give them all a spin by hand and see how they feel. If any of them are binding up or have a lot of slop, then they're going bad. One of my idlers completely froze up and burned my belt in half one morning on the way to work. Not much fun driving around without power steering or power brakes Hopefully that is your issue and nothing more expensive. Pulleys can be found at Napa for a descent price if that ends up being what you need. __________________ 2005 Silverado LT 3500 SRW CC LB 6" SuperLift, 315/75/16, LBZ MP, EGR Blocked

12-10-2012, 04:52 PM	eBay Motors #7 (permalink)
chevy71pickupman DuramaxForum Veteran Join Date: May 2009 Location: East Wenatchee WA Posts: 1,090	If the idler pulleys are fine check your alternator. The back bearing in alternators can do the same thing when they start to go bad. __________________ Adam BIG THANKS TO ROB CODDENS AND DUSTIN GULLETT AT ATPTRUCKS FOR ALL THERE HELP WWW.ATPTRUCKS.COM www.alligatorperformance.com DMAXSTORE.COM

12-10-2012, 06:41 PM	eBay Motors #8 (permalink)
Drewsdmax Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 129	hopefully the link works... like i said, it only makes the sound for a split second. I did take a look at the belt, and it does seem a bit loose, but i haven't removed it yet. Do i just loosen off the tensioner to take the belt off? thanks IMG_1065.mp4 video by andrewc56 \| Photobucket __________________ 2005 GMC Crew Cab SLT, Built Trans, EFI Live with DSP5 (Thanks Rob!), Gauges, AFE MP, Banks Ram Air w/ Scoop! PCV re-route, EGR deleted, PPE rail plug, Diamond Eye DP, 4" Banks straight pipe Exhaust, AD II 165, Leveled with Bilstien 5100's, Cognito UCA and pitman/Idler support, Rare parts Tie rods, Firestone air bags, Pump Rub Kit, Hellwig BIG WIG rear SB and HID's.

12-10-2012, 06:46 PM	eBay Motors #9 (permalink)
2500-HD the SLEDGEHAMMER Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: upstate nj Posts: 2,164	sounds almost like the vanes on the turbine side, does it do this when it cycles at a traffic light or when you let off the throttle? __________________ 04.5 2500hd

12-10-2012, 06:53 PM	eBay Motors #10 (permalink)
brandon41582 Junior Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Groves, Tx Posts: 177	It does sound like it happens when the turbo hisses almost like the vanes need to be oiled or something. __________________ 2006 Chevrolet CC/SB 2500HD Leveled Toyo A/T Open Country 33's Resonator Plugged S&B CAI blocker plate & Fingerstick 5"mbrp turbo back w/muff Efi Live by Rob Hornblasters 540 conductors special Last edited by brandon41582; 12-10-2012 at 06:56 PM.

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