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Changing headgasket.

2K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  JLiska50 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

Finally my head gasket took a shit. Took everything apart last night and was wondering what else should I change while I'm there. Injectors is a definite but I don't know where to purchase. New or Reman? Truck got 240k and I would like to drive this thing till 500k. The heads is at the machine shop get new seals, valve job, and resurface (yes I mention the machinist not to take more than .005 off.) Ordered a head gasket kit with ARPs from Creatures by the night. I am fabricating a new downpipe since its out. It is worth it to make the Up- Pipes also? Is there any gains with those? I also ordered the LML driver side exhaust manifold,waterpump, thermostat, new radiator (since it was leaking). Here are some pictures of the block. The sleeves got some weird marks on them also. Please let me know if its ok to go forward with this job.


Chris

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#2 ·
Leopard spots are normal, part of the hardening process I believe.
 
#3 ·
Wow! You stripped that thing down........ Being you have the CP3 out and have 240K on the clock I would go ahead and change that and the FPR if you are gonna drive it another 250K. They definitely get weak over time.
 
#5 ·
Call and talk with LDS they will get you lined out.
 
#6 ·
Honestly the best prices on everything are RockAuto. You can get oem or aftermarket. Geat prices, fast delivery. I did my HG's for like $350 with LML bolts.
 
#7 ·
Alright, everything is back together and running. So far so good after a disaster. Turned on the engine idles smooth and quiet. Noticed there was no oil pressure. Was freaking out haha. Found out my oil pressure sensor wire was crushed. Fixed it and still no oil pressure. Some reason I thought i might of put the gaskets on backwards. Pulled the alternator bracket off and read R on passenger and used a mirror to see the L on driver. Headgasket is on correct. Turns out to to be the big engine connector was dirty. Wheewww.

So couple questions.

The thermostat was never replaced on this truck. Now the truck drives around @190-200. Is that normal?

My Turbo barking is completely gone. Truck drives fine and feels smoother than ever. Did adding a 3" downpipe affect that?

If i did my valve adjustment to tight, what would it do? Sometimes i feel like its missing but it might just be in my head.

Thanks Guys.
 
#8 ·
190-200 is normal for running temp, the dash temp gauge I find usually reads higher anyways

Valve lash should be set at 0.012" some people set them at 0.011". If they were set to tight the valve could hit the piston when the truck revs around the red line. If that happened then it looks like the you'll be doing more than just a HG job. Compression might be a little lower than normal to if they were set to tight as well
 
#9 ·
3" Downpipe will get rid of the turbo bark. Also not sure what all you have, but after just cleaning all the excess gunk everywhere from the PCV and EGR before it was blocked, EGR delete and downpipe, I do remember it really smoothed the truck out.
 
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