EGT Gause install ?

[zukhalr]

OK I have an 05 CC DRW I my gauges will be here Friday and I hope too get them installed friday night. I am getting the isspro boost and egt gauges on the pillar mount. future plans are a PPE exellerator programmer my Question is where too put the egt sending unit? I really want it pre turbo of coarse but I don't want to pull the turbo to make sure I don't leave any metal shavings. So if I go with post turbo what sould I look for in the way of egt temps. I know 1400 is safe for pre turbo.

1 So is pulling the turbo on this truck a bad Ideal?

2 If yes, then what about post turbo for the sending unit?

3 what have some of you done that works?

The truck has just over 36,ooo on it and I use it for pullin a 34ft gooseneck weighing in at around 14,000 pounds. give or take a few thousand!!

[Tow Master]

I think everyone puts theres on the passanger side rear on the manifold. I decided to remove mine. It only took about an hour to remove, drill, tap, reinstall. Its supper easy to do once you get the inner fender out.

Alot of people drill and tap theres with the motor running. They clame it blows most of the shavings out but Id rather be safe than sorry

[TYREBOYZ_DEMAXIN]

the ultimate place is the drivers side manifold but its kinda hard to get to so you can do as Towmaster suggested and be allright..

[zukhalr]

Thanks guys for the info, just curious about the driverside being better that the pass side, why is that? just because it is closer too the gauge or does that sidee run hotter?

[TYREBOYZ_DEMAXIN]

Originally Posted by zukhalr

Thanks guys for the info, just curious about the driverside being better that the pass side, why is that? just because it is closer too the gauge or does that sidee run hotter?

that is where the most heat is..

[zukhalr]

Cool so did you need a new gasket for the turbo when you removed it? I like the better safe that sorry deal as my stealership won't even let me do a cold air intake, and they will not replace my air box per bulliten as they said they cannot duplicate the run hot problem, they said that the aluminum foil that they took off of the inner fender was the problem not letting it get enough air but I was like no if it didn't get enough air then the little air meter would have shown that!!

[Tow Master]

I did mine when the truck had 10,000 miles on it so I didnt replace my gasket. However, the gasket to the turbo and the one between the block and manifold are metal and they suggest you replace them.

So with close to 40,000 miles and the extra $30.00 you might be better off getting them replaced.

Im not sure if you looked into it but you can also buy a aftermarket BD driverside manifold. The stock driverside manifold has a "crush or kink" in it factory. The BD manifold eliminates that and comes pre tapped for a EGT gauge. The BD manifold comes in at around $400 IIRC.

[pa_coalminer]

its easy to do with the manifold on the truck, just let it idle shaving will blow out. start with a small bit, then either go directly to right size for your fitting or some use another smaller bit.

this may be useful
1/8-27 NPT use "R" (.339) dia. drill
1/4-18 NPT use 7/16" (.4375) dia. drill
3/8-18 NPT use 37/64" (.578) dia. drill

i would get a good drill bit not the regular black high carbon steel bits.

make sure you wear safety glasses or goggle, there will be metal shavings flying out.
be careful make sure you do not push the drill to hard, so you do not run through and hit the other side.
use lots of spray when tapping the hole.

alot of people are afraid to do it this way, but it is easy not replacing gaskets or worrying about exhaust leaks.

[3500lt]

i did mine on the passenger side manifold.. 2inches forward from the back of it.. i get a little impatient so i would drill and tap how everyone else said.. i drilled and tapped it while the motor was not running.. i figure if i junked the turbo i would just get a bigger one... lol