Glow Plug Location.. - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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Old 10-24-2012, 02:49 PM   eBay Motors  #1 (permalink)
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Glow Plug Location..

Alright, so when I bought my truck almost a month ago the check engine light was on and stated that glow plugs #2-8 were bad and the egr was either gone or needed cleaning. It typically takes about 20 seconds for the wait to start light to go off, and after it's started it stays off. My first question is could the module(s?) be bad? Also, does anybody have a picture of where the glow plugs are exactly? This is my first diesel, I'm used to working on 5.7 vortec and 4.3 tbi (last two trucks). Thanks in advance
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:23 PM   eBay Motors  #2 (permalink)
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The glow plugs can be gotten to by removing the wheel fender liners. Try the passenger side first, because they are much easier to get to. There will be four studs sticking out of the block with eyelets and harnesses running to each one.

It could be glow plug controller. I would change a could out and see if it takes care of the codes for those plugs. If you are in a corrosive climate, spray them up with PB Blaster a week before removal. Dont break them!! dont twist them at angles.
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:34 PM   eBay Motors  #3 (permalink)
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I had this exact same problem.... Dont buy a new module and stick it in right away because as soon as you turn the key it will put the old crappy program in it.. You need to have it reprogrammed so it doesnt keep the plugs on so long... I put the new module on and took it to get reprogrammed and found out it couldnt because it already had the old program in it. So now i have a $140 paper weight! lol
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:43 PM   eBay Motors  #4 (permalink)
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Glow Plug Time

I was in a similar position a month ago, my check engine light, which had been 'intermittent' (on for a few weeks, off for a few weeks) for a long time became 'permanent', more importantly the 'wait to start' light would stay on 'forever' or until I actually started the engine. I have never been able to retrieve codes from my truck (yes, looked for a bad fuse), so I didn't know which glow plugs to change but as more than one person on here said "Do you change just one spark plug on a gas engine?" So I bought a set of plugs and set out to change them. I didn't spray them with penetrating oil in advance because I couldn't get to them until I had the inner fender wells out and was too lazy to remove and replace them ahead of time, I was also reluctant to drive with them out (although if it didn't involve lots of rain, it probably would be OK, let's say that I am a bit gun shy about flooding an engine after a rental Charger died). I did follow the advice about running the engine 10-15 minutes to warm it before changing the plugs and I did spray on some oil at that time but looking at the threads after removal, can't say that it helped. I am not a mechanic but am pretty mechanically inclined, no one would ever pay me to do that work because I am so slow .... they'd go broke. It took me two hours to change all 8 glow plugs, I did use almost every 1/4" drive implement I own (nothing was so tight as to need 3/8" drive), mostly for the ones on the driver's side. I had to start the truck about a dozen times after I was done to 'clear' the CEL. All in all a successful day. Maybe some day I can figure out why I can't get a scanner to read anything on my truck but for now, life is good!


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Old 09-26-2014, 08:47 AM   eBay Motors  #5 (permalink)
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I changed number 7 and number 6 this week...didn't take the fender liners out, went thru the top with no troubles. For #6 I pulled the boost tube and that gave me good access....the worst problem I had was the terminal broke off, and even that was no biggie
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Old 09-26-2014, 08:52 AM   eBay Motors  #6 (permalink)
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2 hours? not bad at all (in my mind)...did you put any anti sieze on the GPs?...I did mine,(steel into aluminum concerns me)....couldn't you have eliminated the codes by disconnecting the batteries?
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Old 09-26-2014, 11:47 AM   eBay Motors  #7 (permalink)
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I did use anti-sieze on the new glow plugs, I share your concerns about anything steel that is threaded into aluminum. Disconnecting the batteries might very well have cleared the codes, I am not very well versed on any of the OBD/computer stuff but remembered that when my H-D had a bad stator (twice, same batch?) I just had to start the engine a dozen or so times and it cleared. Still no idea why a scanner will not 'read' my truck, I guess that I have been fortunate not to need one these past two years, not sure it will be forever though.

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