06-07.5 LBZ & LLY Duramax PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect
Bleeding the system is just that...there is a silver pump on top of the filter head that you use. Personally, the way I do it is to put on the new filter, start the truck and let it run until it dies, and then I loosen the plastic screw next to the silver button some and pump until diesel comes out of the screw....tighten the screw and start the engine and see if it dies again. BTW, the sensor unplugs down by the engine....just follow the wires to the plug....it isn't to the top of the filter head assembly. If you don't have the diesel supplement, you can get it here: DTC and Manuals
Also, you got the tools list right except for a screwdriver for the bleeder screw.
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Try this link: Fuel Filter replacment pics/instructions - Diesel Place It does a good job of explaining it. The only thing I did different was prefill my filter with diesel before I placed it and when I primed it, fuel immediately came out. My truck had no hesitation when I started it and ran it.
well at first readin all these got me worried, lookin under the hood down at the filter made me worried, takin the inner fender out looked like a pain, plus i like to make things as easy as posible. first turn wheels sharp right, then stand on the wheel and bumper to reach down and unplug the wif senser, then grab a rag and pull the inner fender well towards the spindle and slip your arms up behind it, use the rag for grip and spin the filter loose, hold the filter with one hand and pull the fender out alittle more and slip the filter out, hold the filter and take the wif senser out, put your new o rings on and do the steps in reverse. loosen the bleeder screw and pump the primer SLOWLY or you will spray fuel EVERYWHERE, this was my first change at 10.5k and what a difference it made and it only took me ten minutes. don't be scared it ain't that bad, hope this helps everyone and saves some people some money
Glad you guys posted all of this info. Giving mine a go tomorrow, haven't worked on the girl at all since I bought her. Looks pretty straight forward and not as difficult as doing it on the K4500. Who knows, maybe next I will do the oil change.
Wow, 15 minutes start to finish including replacing a broken glove. I didn't need to move the ac line as they said in the pictures, the only thing that was really in the way was the dipstick. The hardest part of all of it was when you first detached it trying to get your hand moved around so you didn't drop the filter and then when you had to get it back onto the threads.
Pumping the primer slow is a VERY good piece of advice, even slow it spewed fuel out. After I had mine primed and connected up I cranked her up and she purred for about 15 minutes with no stutter.
When you first drain any water and then remove the filter, air invaribly will enter the lines, as a result you need to "bleed" the lines. A very simple procedure, above your filter is a hand pump that allows you to pump air out and return fuel to the lines. Once you have done this you will know what to do if you ever run out of fuel!! Your manual will explain all of this. And getting the fender wall off sucks, just do it from the top.
Really easy to do,if you can change a tire, you can change your own fuel filter...WTF 120 Dollars for stealer to do...NO way search and you'll gitit...
Why are ya'll taking the tire and/or inner fenders off of your trucks!? This is a very easy filter to get to without all that extra stuff. Just use a filter wrench that looks like a pair of channel locks (you can get them from any auto parts store) and go in from the top. Just unplug the water sensor before you start. This is a 5 minute filter change. Just be sure you press the filter gasket in good before you replace and be carefull not to cross thread!
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