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Go Back   Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum > Chevy / GMC Duramax 06-07.5 LBZ & LLY Forums > 06-07.5 LBZ & LLY Duramax Powertrain
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06-07.5 LBZ & LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect

 
       

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Old 07-27-2007, 01:25 AM   eBay Motors   #1 (permalink)
ffemtp
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Changing the Fuel Filter

I am about to hit the 10K mark on the mileage and I decided it is time to change the fuel filter. Interestingly, Autozone wanted $45 for a Champion and my Chevy dealer wanted $33 for an AC-Delco! Anyway, I had heard a special tool might be required to change the filter so I went to check with the diesel mechanic. I was told no special tool required, but he highly recommended to let the dealer do it. Apparently there is a potential issue with people changing it themselves that anywhere from a few minutes to 2-3 days later the truck would need to be towed in because it would not run. Is this a real issue or are they just trying to get my $120 for a fuel filter change? I was thinking air in the fuel system or an electrical connection failing.

I did find this info for tools: Merchant Automotive :: Your Duramax Diesel and Allison Transmission Experts! and this page: Merchant Automotive :: Your Duramax Diesel and Allison Transmission Experts!
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Last edited by ffemtp : 07-27-2007 at 01:31 AM. Reason: Found a link
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Old 07-27-2007, 03:19 AM   eBay Motors   #2 (permalink)
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I have never heard of a fuel filter being hard to change. I haven't had to change mine yet...but I did alot of research on this forum and other sites...and I believe if you look in your owners manual....it will give you instructions on how to change it. I heard you pretty much take off your passenger side wheel wall and go to town. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-27-2007, 08:21 AM   eBay Motors   #3 (permalink)
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no special tools are required...a strap wrench makes it a whole lot easier to get the filter loose. Also, that tool from Merchant automotive isn't required, but it keeps you from messing up the water in fuel (WIF) sensor (I bought one of those). You can get the sensor out with some channel locks. As long as you make sure you get both seals off with the old filter and you bleed the system, you will have no issues. I have read where people have had problems after having the stealership change their filter since their filter head got messed up and they chased the problem for quite a while. The only other thing that you need to be careful with is the bleeder screw. Be fairly gentle with it and don't overtighten and crack it.
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Old 07-31-2007, 04:33 PM   eBay Motors   #4 (permalink)
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well said. it is pretty tight quarters in there though.
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:48 AM   eBay Motors   #5 (permalink)
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Well, I changed the filter yesterday without any hitches. Easy to do, just time consuming in having to remove the inner fender. One thing I did was fill my filter with diesel before I put it on. Obviously, when I opened the bleeder valve and pumped it, fuel immediately came out. The truck didn't hesitate to start or run and I have about 60 miles on it since the change. I would highly recommend the tool from Merchant Automotive to remove the Fuel Sensor switch. The strap wrench wouldn't remove it. I am ordering one now.
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:39 AM   eBay Motors   #6 (permalink)
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On most trucks you don't have to remove the fenderliner, but it does make it easier. I used a strap wrench this last time and had no problems. I always just go from the top and I can have it done in about 15 mins. I just use a ziplock bag to drop the filter into before pulling it out of the engine compartment. No spilled diesel.
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Old 08-05-2007, 01:54 PM   eBay Motors   #7 (permalink)
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I change my fuel filter every 3k miles. Some of the time it comes off with no problems and some times its a pain in the pooper. I usally take the inner fender out for ease.
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Old 08-05-2007, 02:15 PM   eBay Motors   #8 (permalink)
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Is there a trick too removing the plastic rivets that hold the inner fender without destroying them?
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Old 08-05-2007, 03:32 PM   eBay Motors   #9 (permalink)
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Use a screwdriver to get them started pulling out (the centers). Pull them out until the stop. Then just use the same screwdriver to pop the rest of it loose. Either way, I would just have some extras on hand because they will eventually get destroyed. I just don't deal with them and take the fuel filter out the top. never had a problem doing that way and it takes less time (for me at least).
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:28 AM   eBay Motors   #10 (permalink)
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Ok..after reading this further...I'm getting nervous myself. I thought you just popped the sensor off the top and unscrewed the filter. Can someone explain to me what "bleeding the system means" and what tools I will need? I can get a filter loosening wrench, ziplock bag, and channel locks. Is that all I'll need???
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