Hello everyone, I am new to this site but have read through it and find it very informative. Everyone seems very knowledgable and helpful.
I own an 06 Duramax with the LBZ and have really enjoyed it. I have not done any performance upgrades to the truck besides the Bully Dog Power Pup Programer. I am just about to reach 90,000 miles and am considering installing a completely new exhaust system and adding a cold air intake. I have read alittle but am pretty much clueless on which systems would be best for the chevy. I am leaning towards a 4" megaflow exhaust and a S&B cold air intake. Should I go with the oil or dry filters? Or is S&B even the best system for my truck? I want to hear the truck just alittle more, but not too loud. Any other performance upgrades sugestions for a truck about to hit 100,000 is greatly appriciated.
Thank you all for your time and all you advice is greatly appriciated.
__________________ 2006 Cheverolet 2500HD Duramax 4X4 LT4 Engine/Trans: 6.6 LBZ w/ Allison 6 speed Programer: Bully Dog Power Pup Interior: All Leather, Captian Chairs, Sunroof and DVD player. All from the factory. Exterior: Full repacement U3 Front and Rear Bumper. U3 Steps and Rino Lining in the bed. Tires: All Terain 285 BFGs on original rims.
If you live where there is salt, get a Stainless Steel exhaust....it will last longer than aluminized...some people disagree, but spend a little extra and do it right the first time is what I say. As far as size, get a 4inch, and brand I personally don't think it matters, they are all 4inch pieces of stainless steel pipe...and unless you plan on doing a turbo back, you aren't going to get much noise out of them. And if you do a turbo back, get an EGR blocker plate and Fingers stick, that way you don't throw codes. So as far as the pipe goes, see which one has the best looking tip and setup and go for it. As for the CAI (cold air intake).... I wouldn't even bother getting one...it won't do you any good power wise. You might get a little louder turbo whistle, but nothing worth 500.00. But if you do decide to get one, dry is less maintenance than oiled, just depends on how much you take care of your truck...but stock is perfectly fine. And some people here will tell you to do a stock air box mod....here's how I look at it. If you went and bought a brand new 600.00 LCD flat screen TV...and someone told you to take a knife to it and cut it up because it will cool better with absolutely NO proof...would you do it? Probably not...so why do it to your truck. But I would def. recommend getting an exhaust soon if you are running a tune, it will lower your EGT's and help your truck breathe better.
__________________ RIDE: 2007 Chevy CC LBZ / 6 speed LIFT: Ready Lift Leveling Kit STARTER: VIPER 2 Way w/Turbo Timer SOUND: Pioneer P4000DVD - 6 1/2 Polk Audio everywhere else. ADD ONS: H1 Halo Projector headlights, Backup Camera, Dee Zee running boards, Chrome Grill, ExTang Solid Fold Tonneau Cover, Line of Fire w/reverse, custom bug shield/vent shades, TomTom GPS TIRES/WHEELS: 285/75-16 Firestone MT Tires on 16x8 ATX series Teflon Coated Wheels AIRFLOW: BANKS Monster Dual Exhaust, EGR blocked & CAT removed with MBRP replacment pipe and BANKS Ram Air. PROGRAMMERS: BANKS 6 Gun PDA w/Speed Loader --STACKED-- with Quadzilla Stealth 2
Hey! You have pretty mutch the same truck I have. I bought a 4 inch MBRP stainless Turbo back. As n0useforaname said if they salt the roads near where you live you definatly want stainless. Im real happy with mine, It went on easy, sounds good and looks good as well.
For the intake. I had AFE on my dmax and its ok but pricey. I just installed a S&B on my other truck and its awesome! Way lower price than the afe and alot nicer of a system IMO.
__________________ Iraqies.... "These people watch the Flinstones like its a documentary!" Jason 2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ CC SB Escalade Handles, Front windows tinted to match the rear, painted bumpers, billet grille 4 Kicker 10in Subs in 2 custom box's, Autometer Ultra lite II Pyro and Boost gauges MBRP Turbo Back Stainless Exhaust (Straight piped), w/ stainless tip! PPE Hot+2 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers on Gear Alloy wheels ****Lost Kitty Reward if found!! 1999 Ford F-550 PowerStroke ''Wrecker'' **Jerrdan bed, S&B Intake
Thanks so much for the advice. Tow Master, you must have a pretty good looking truck. And n0useforaname I really appriciate all the advice, and I like you fresh philosophy on things. I am going to go with the 4" Stainless form the turbo back for sure now. what does MBRP stand for? Is it the brand? What is an EGR blocker plate and Fingers stick? and where would I get them?
__________________ 2006 Cheverolet 2500HD Duramax 4X4 LT4 Engine/Trans: 6.6 LBZ w/ Allison 6 speed Programer: Bully Dog Power Pup Interior: All Leather, Captian Chairs, Sunroof and DVD player. All from the factory. Exterior: Full repacement U3 Front and Rear Bumper. U3 Steps and Rino Lining in the bed. Tires: All Terain 285 BFGs on original rims.
MBRP is the brand. They make excellent kits that fit and sound great. Stainless is definately the way to go as it comes with a lifetime warranty. S&B is the best bang for the buck out there as far as intakes go. You will be very happy with this combo.
what does MBRP stand for? Is it the brand? What is an EGR blocker plate and Fingers stick? and where would I get them?
Hey sure thing for the help!
Ya MBRP is just a brand... Like Firestone and Goodyear. EGR blocker plate is a metal plate that you put on the back of your motor. It keeps the EGR from letting soote and junk back into your motor.
A Finger stick Is a computer chip with 5 wires running off of it and you wire it inline into your wiring harness. The only time you need a finger stick is if you Add a cold air intake and remove the catalitic converter (which your thinking about doing). When you put both those on your truck you often set a SES (Service Engine Soon) light because the EGR starts reading wrong. I put a straight pipe exhaust on my truck and it only set the SES light a few times. I bought the finger stick to keep it away but never installed it.
So You really dont need to install the finger stick unless you need it. So Id wait IMO. The blocker plate isnt a bad idea though
__________________ Iraqies.... "These people watch the Flinstones like its a documentary!" Jason 2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ CC SB Escalade Handles, Front windows tinted to match the rear, painted bumpers, billet grille 4 Kicker 10in Subs in 2 custom box's, Autometer Ultra lite II Pyro and Boost gauges MBRP Turbo Back Stainless Exhaust (Straight piped), w/ stainless tip! PPE Hot+2 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers on Gear Alloy wheels ****Lost Kitty Reward if found!! 1999 Ford F-550 PowerStroke ''Wrecker'' **Jerrdan bed, S&B Intake
Go with a closed cold air box, not just the ones that try to block off and use the hood for a lid. I did go with a Volant cold air box, and made my own pipe instead of paying a hundred bucks for the volant. I also was told by a friend who works at a diesel toy shop that Silverline 4" stainless is the easiest to install. A lot of the aftermarket exhaust kits are a pain in the arse to install.
Hello everyone, I am new to this site but have read through it and find it very informative. Everyone seems very knowledgable and helpful.
I own an 06 Duramax with the LBZ and have really enjoyed it. I have not done any performance upgrades to the truck besides the Bully Dog Power Pup Programer. I am just about to reach 90,000 miles and am considering installing a completely new exhaust system and adding a cold air intake. I have read alittle but am pretty much clueless on which systems would be best for the chevy. I am leaning towards a 4" megaflow exhaust and a S&B cold air intake. Should I go with the oil or dry filters? Or is S&B even the best system for my truck? I want to hear the truck just alittle more, but not too loud. Any other performance upgrades sugestions for a truck about to hit 100,000 is greatly appriciated.
Thank you all for your time and all you advice is greatly appriciated.
Your truck cames stock with an intake that none of the aftermarket companies have been able to improve upon. The greatest odds lie in the possibility of regret, for codes and issues you will generate.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.