rear pinion seal? - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum

06-07 LBZ & LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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rear pinion seal?

well, i went to Denver and picked up a set of these tires/wheels

and when i got home i noticed fluid on the pumpkin... looks like rear pinion seal, anyone know how much for dealer to replace... i could probably do it myself, but don't have much time or patience

i did find the seal for $31 at O'Rielly's... not sure that it is the right one though
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File Type: jpg wheel - 1.jpg (66.7 KB, 383 views)
File Type: jpg rear - 1.jpg (40.9 KB, 387 views)

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 08:54 AM
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All u do is take the driveline off than take the 12 point nut off the pinion than u will prolly need a mallet and hit off that balancer thing than take the seal off and put the new one on and that u have to torque it exactly how it is now because than. It will mess with the backlash I believe I'm sure smeone will correct me but if u don't tighten it enough it will be toouching the ring gear to much but if u tighten it to much it won't be toucking it enouch so I guess its ur call maybe be better to have someone do it but I bet it would only take an hour maybe an hour and a half

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 08:57 AM
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Mine is leaking too

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 09:02 AM
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It'll run you between $250 and $300 if you can get them to use your parts. A lot of dealers are snotty and want that part markup. Regardless, you can bet on about 2.5hrs or so of labor. And TM13 is right about the tolerances. I'm not sure, but you may have to replace the crush sleeve. But you definitely need to get the preload correct or you'll burn the bearings up. I personally don't like working on rear ends.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 09:24 AM
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Okay, listen up. Here's a safe way to do it. First mark postion of drive shaft mounting to yoke. Second, remove shaft. Third, take a sharp pointed punch and hammer and put a mark on pinion nut and end of shaft inline with each other. Fourth, remove nut "Important" count the amount of turns you make because that is your bearing pre-load. Fifth, Replace seal and clean yoke. Make sure you dont have a worn ridge where seal rides. Sixth, Put a light coat of rtv on inside spline and a light coat of grease where seal rides. Seventh, Replace yoke and replace nut turning the "EXACT" amount of turns to remove. Align marks being very careful you dont go past. Refill and replace shaft.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 09:30 AM
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Vribal has good advise-- Be aware-- to tight or to loose will damage the rear axle gears.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 09:47 AM
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also too tight changes your pre-load on pinion bearing. going past then back to mark wont work. damage is done by squeezing crush collar too far.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2010, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonymontana13 View Post
all u do is take the driveline off than take the 12 point nut off the pinion than u will prolly need a mallet and hit off that balancer thing than take the seal off and put the new one on and that u have to torque it exactly how it is now because than. It will mess with the backlash i believe i'm sure smeone will correct me but if u don't tighten it enough it will be toouching the ring gear to much but if u tighten it to much it won't be toucking it enouch so i guess its ur call maybe be better to have someone do it but i bet it would only take an hour maybe an hour and a half
do not hit a balancer with a hammer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-12-2010, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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well, i found this

anyone know the correct part number?
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File Type: pdf Pinion - 2004 Chevy...pdf (109.6 KB, 145 views)

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-14-2010, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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bump...

no one knows the right part number?

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