torque app - things to check? - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
07.5-10 LMM Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-04-2013, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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torque app - things to check?

Going to look tomorrow at a '08 Duramax pickup again. I am new to diesels 100%, had been doing a lot of reading over at a powerstroke forum, because for no real reason, that's just what I figured I'd end up getting, there seems to be a lot of them in my area, so figured I'd find a better deal on a ford than a chevy or gmc.

I have the torque app and a bluetooth OBD. Is there anything in particular I should try to look for or monitor to determine whether this might be a good truck or might have issues. I know on the fords, you can monitor the oil temp compared to coolant temp, and if more than 15* delta (I think it was 15) then that's a tip off the oil cooler might be having issues, etc.

I drove a 04 F250, a 07 F350, and this 08 GMC 2500 today. The GM had BY FAR more power, rode better, sounded better, motor quieter, just all around seemed more comfortable and powerful.

The one think I notice not working on it was the cruise control. When you turned it on, a amber light came on on the button, but nothing on the dash that I could see, and it didn't work. Any ideas on what it might be, how hard or expensive to fix that problem? Any way to diagnose it using torque and the OBD II reader?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-05-2013, 02:57 AM
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Set it up to read the injector balance rates to see if anything funny is going on there.

2005 Silverado LT 3500 SRW CC LB
6" SuperLift, 315/75/16, LBZ MP, EGR Blocked
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-05-2013, 06:39 AM
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Injector balance rates (if your reader cant read them, have the dealer pull them)
The cruise control could be as simple as a bad tail light or brake switch, or it could be like mine and the BCM could be going (about $200 and the dealer has to flash it to the truck to work) overall not a big deal, only took 15 minutes to fix.

2008 2500HD LTZ, EFI Live- Idaho Rob's Tunes, 4" Magnaflow Turbo Back, Raptor 150 Lift Pump, Transgo Jr, All Season Diesel EGR delete with high flow Y-bridge, Edge Insight for gauges,
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-05-2013, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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so injectors are the main thing to worry about with the duramax failing in a stock type setup, or at least that can be checked for like this? Truck has 209000 miles. No worries about oil cooler or egr type issues? Sorry, I gotta admit I know squat about diesels.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-05-2013, 07:42 AM
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no issues with oil cooler, and EGR systems arent prone to failure.

Cognito UCA's
4" MBRP straight exhaust
Trans Go Jr.
Edge CTS w/Ultralite II Gauges
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-05-2013, 08:04 AM
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Take a look at the mileage the codes were last reset. A recent reset might indicate a reoccurring CEL that is tough to diagnose or expensive to repair.

2007 LMM NBS K2500 CC SB LT1 painfully stock
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-05-2013, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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I never could get the injector balance rates to read. I put 8 digital gauges on the desktop, then went in and enabled the extra PID's (think that's what they were called) then assigned each gauge to a different cylinder balance PID. I must not be doing something right.

It is throwing codes, solenoid A and C, something about low voltage or high, I don't recall exactly. Another with something to do with pressure high, and one some pressure low. Took it to a tranny shop I trust, they looked it over, it's leaking tranny fluid pretty good around the electric plug. He thinks it's likely compromised the wires causing it to throw the codes sometimes. It shifts fine in both auto and manual modes, up and down. He felt the wiring and plug were probably the problem. Said around $500 to $600 to replace the plug, pigtail, replace both filters, and fluid. That didn't seem to bad so ... ... took a chance, we'll see how it turns out in the end I guess

Picked up a new brake switch on the way home, two shops were pretty sure my problem is there, they both said they see that failure fairly often causing the symptom of cruise light coming on, but not setting. I'll replace that tomorrow, looks easy enough, one bolt and that appeared to be it.

I hope I didn't buy a lemon, but like I said, time will tell. For $16,500, I thought it seemed like a decent deal if I get away with just replacing the plug/pigtail to the tranny, and a brake switch.

First time I've ever paid over a hundred to fill up ANYTHING. 32 gallons, $120. Here's hoping the 32 gallons in this truck carries me further than the 20 in my old 1/2 ton used to. lol
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