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Old 01-03-2008, 07:33 AM   eBay Motors  #1 (permalink)
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Transmission Oil change question

I have a 2007+5 2500HD with the Allison transmission. I need to change my transmission oil and filter. Is there a way to drain the oil in the torque convertor? Should I care if I just change the oil in the transmission and filter every 12K miles?
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Old 01-03-2008, 11:07 AM   eBay Motors  #2 (permalink)
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That would be all you can do on the factory setup. There is no way to change the oil on the factory converter unless you do a cut and clean.
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Old 01-03-2008, 01:24 PM   eBay Motors  #3 (permalink)
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Actually there is. Here is whats called the "Hoot" method for flushing an Allison.



Allison Deep Pan/TranSynd Synthetic Fluid Replacement Procedure


Notes

Cleanliness is extremely important.

If the o-ring stays in the bore when changing the suction filter—don’t jam a screwdriver up the hole to retrieve it. Use some finesse and it will come.

The assumption is that the transmission was at the correct level before beginning this procedure.

Wearing safety glasses is a good idea—the fluid really stings in your eyes.

Previous posts indicate: Stock shallow pan capacity-7.4 qts when drained.
Large pan capacity-7.4 qts. + 3.2 qts.=10.6 qts.
Total capacity-(dry system) shallow pan=12.7 qts.
Total capacity-(dry system) deep pan=15.9 qts.

When I drained I measured approximately 8.2 quarts (including residual fluid in factory pan, oil out of spin on filter, and oil that ran out when pulling suction filter and disconnecting transmission line.


Parts Needed:

• Pan #29536522
• Suction Filter# 29537966
• Transynd fluid #27101-four to five gallons
• Transynd dipstick label #00SA3316EN
• Spin-on filter-#29539579

Tools Needed:

1. Two feet of 5/8 heater hose
2. 13mm & 15mm socket, and 3/8 ratchet or equivalent
3. Torque wrench- 3/8”
4. Empty three gallon containers—2 ea
5. Safety Glasses
6. Plenty of rags
7. Very small screwdriver



Procedure:

Drain pan. Would not recommend doing this with hot oil. Keep track of how much oil you drain in this pan.


Reinstall plug in pan finger tight and remove 12 bolts.

After dropping pan, inspect gasket and set aside for re-use if O.K.

Remove suction filter with o-ring. More oil will come out when you pull the suction filter.

The “O-ring” is not the traditional o-ring but instead an orange colored very thick ring. If the ring stays in place when pulling the old suction filter off, just wipe clean, reinsert in hole and **** the filter a little sideways while removing. The o-ring should come out with the filter.

Remove and replace spin on filter—prime if you like.
Don’t forget to transfer magnet from old to new filter, wipe magnet clean before
installing in new filter.


Install new suction filter, don’t forget the o-ring.

Install new pan with gasket.
Torque pan bolts to 7-10 foot pounds.

Install drain plug and tighten to 25 foot pounds.

Pour approximately 11 quarts of oil in transmission.

Disconnect upper line from trans cooler at the transmission.
These lines are on the passenger side of the transmission, near the torque converter.
The lines are also identified on the side of the transmission

Quote from Hoot: “In case you haven’t seen the Jiffy-Tite style connector before: Slide back the plastic cover over the c-clip-shaped spring, then use a small screwdriver to pop the spring out of it’s groove. KEEP A FINGER ON THE SPRING AS YOU DO THIS, because those springs love to go flying off into some dark hole where you’ll never find it. Once the spring is out, just pull and wiggle on the line until it comes out of the fitting. As soon as you have the line out you can put the spring back into its groove so you don’t lose it-the line will snap right back into place when you’re done, even with the spring there. Be careful not to damage the o-rings when re-installing.”

Attach the two foot hose to the line you just unhooked and run into your other container. Make sure to push the hose on far enough to go past the ridge in the line. Have one person hold the hose while another starts the truck (unless you have remote) and a third person pour oil in the filler tube.

Turn the truck on and off until you run about one and a half gallons out of the line.

You will have empty transynd containers (if you bought the one gallon size) that you can set inside of your second container, which you can run the hose directly into to measure your progress. Be careful the oil comes out pretty fast.

At this point check how much oil you drained initially and how much you drained in the flush. Subtract how much you drained from how much you added and shoot for a difference of 3.2 quarts. In other words you want 3.2 quarts more in the transmission then you drained out. If you have too much in the transmission run a little more out of the cooler line.

Once you are satisfied the oil level is close, reconnect the cooler line and make sure the line is firmly attached.

You should have the c-clip back in its original position before reconnecting the line.

When reconnecting the line it will “click” in position and may squirt you in the face with a touch of oil.

Start truck and look for leaks, then run the transmission through the gears a few times.

Put truck back in park and check level with dipstick. Should be full cold-if not add fluid.

Drive the truck enough to get the transmission warmed up and then check again-should be to full hot mark.
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Old 01-03-2008, 02:13 PM   eBay Motors  #4 (permalink)
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That would be a tranny flush and will not drain the converter. However it will help. The converter gets its fluid thru the input shaft which is the only way to get fluid in or out of the converter other than taking the converter out completely.
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Old 01-03-2008, 02:37 PM   eBay Motors  #5 (permalink)
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Using the method that I posted will flush the converter. Thats why you let the level get low and then over fill it. I've done it several times and you can see the clean fluid swap with your own eyes right at 18-20 qts which is the factory capacity for a stock Allison and converter. According to your statement there would never be any fluid added to or taken away from the torque converter under normal operating conditions and it would always retain the same fluid no matter what.

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Old 01-15-2010, 07:58 PM   eBay Motors  #6 (permalink)
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Anyone agree with DangerousDuramax....?
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:35 PM   eBay Motors  #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangrisano View Post
I have a 2007+5 2500HD with the Allison transmission. I need to change my transmission oil and filter. Is there a way to drain the oil in the torque convertor? Should I care if I just change the oil in the transmission and filter every 12K miles?
First ? how many miles do you have on the trans that you feel you NEED to change the trans fluid.
The spin on Trans filter that is on the bottom about every 10,000 miles.
Don`t forget to remove the magnet off the old filter clean and place it on the new one.
You might read your manual on changing the trans fluid.
I don`t have the manual in front of me but if I remember right from the techs, it is about 5-8 times more miles than the 12k you mentioned.
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:38 PM   eBay Motors  #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuraTitus View Post
Anyone agree with DangerousDuramax....?

I agree with him, this seems to be a pretty common method for flushing and refilling with different fluid. Not completely sure it would/wouldn't flush out the torque converter, completely.
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Last edited by setexan; 01-15-2010 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 12-20-2010, 03:17 PM   eBay Motors  #9 (permalink)
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this is the method we use for trans flushing at my shop.. use the cooler lines to do the work instead of the $4000 machine that backflushes it...
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:08 PM   eBay Motors  #10 (permalink)
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Quick question on this, I'm planning on doing a deep pan with a Mike L cooler and flush the system at the same time. Should I put the new trans cooler in then flush or flush then replace the cooler.
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