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Sagging rear leaf spring (Drivers Side) HELP!

17K views 32 replies 7 participants last post by  Ron Nielson 
#1 ·
So here we are, I purchased my truck in May last year and immediately had a 6inch fabtech suspension lift installed. I'm extremely picky and went over everything on truck before I bought it and couldn't find anything on the lot. About 5 months passed by and I started to glance back and notice a lean on the back side of truck. I looked everything in and out and there's for sure a difference in the leafs from left to right. I'm just about to replace two news springs at this point bc I'm not sure what else to do and it looks horrible!! I have the 4+1 set-up and my truck is and 09 2500HD with only 69k miles? People are suggesting this is due to the fuel tank on the drivers side but is there any suggestions on correcting the problem? Is a new set of stock springs a good idea or will the 7+1 setup fit and help as well? Who makes good springs at a reasonable price? Would removing blocks and adding lift springs help aid in anything. Is there another solution to the whole problem as well? I don't want to sacrifice to much in ride quality but the lean has got to go regardless! Thanks guys
 
#2 ·
Do you have any suspension shops where your located ?
Someplace that can actually see your truck in person.

With no pictures, no ideas other than.

You could add rear airbags with individual air valves then you can level it the way you want, side to side.
On the fuel tank theory, check the measurements when the fuel is low.
 
#3 ·
There's the possibility of taking it to a suspension shop but if I go in there clueless on the situation I know they possibly will try to sell me something I don't need or can replace myself. I'm planning on having another alignment done at an axel and frame shop but I'm hoping someone else out there has dealt with the issue and had a positive outcome. I did measure from the ground to the upper most fender lip on each side in the rear and there was roughly a difference of 2.25 inches on the drivers side (flat level concrete/ psi in tires equal.) I also measured the bottom of frame to top/bottom of springs in rear and there's quite a difference in the drivers side also. Not trying to do airbags but if it's my only option then it will have to be done. I had it aligned in florida where I bought the truck after the lift install and the truck drove and still rides good(good tire wear.) Not sure I can take more measurements.
 
#4 ·
You can replace your springs for $260 for the pair, add in another $150 for hangars etc. they don't last forever, especially with heavy use. The 4/1 packs are great, but don't last nearly as long as the 7/1 3500 springs.

Deaver makes some kickass springs, but $750 a pair.
 
#6 ·
Thanks I seen the Deaver sold by cognito, I could rid of the blocks and compensate with the 6 inch springs but if the same prob would come about again I'd hope those things were under warranty at $800 a pair! Although the ride quality of stock at 260 sounds more for what I'm looking for, is the 260 a pair a gm replacement part or is there a Peticular brand I should look for or stay away from, don't want to replace with junk lol.
 
#5 · (Edited)
The old saying PICTURES are worth a thousand words, I can't see anything thru your words.
You don't have to have the work done at any shop, it's just to get any idea on what they say needs to be done in order to fix the problem.
Because they could actually see the truck, we're not seeing the trucks possible issues thru words

The leaf spring could have collapsed, the rear hanger bolt might have sheared off and the leaf could be pushing against the frame.
 
#7 ·
I seen nothing wrong with truck myself, the thing is mint, came from Florida and never seen a winter in its life (stickers all still on frame ect.) I can send I pic when I get home but everything looks to be good, perhaps when I bought it stock single owner before me towed the hell out of it haha idk
 
#10 ·
I'm going with what the truck came with, and then adding traction devices and sway bar.

Mine are currently clamped on both sides, I like a firm ride and crisp handling (for a truck). The 7/1 3500 springs will create a lot more jounce/bounce when unladen, but will support more weight overall. I'm not close to pushing my capacities so I have no need of the increased jarring.
 
#13 ·
You MAY need nothing more than to have the ride height (also called Z-height) adjusted. Cost locally was about $75 as I recall. When the alignment shop does this they will be able to tell you if you have a spring problem or not. I am aware that the springs on these trucks are pretty light and easily overpowered. I am having another leaf added to my pack (or maybe entirely new springs - won't know until after inspection) in a couple of days.
 
#16 ·
Just got back from General Spring of Kansas City (actually located in Olathe, KS) where I had an extra leaf added to each side of my existing spring pack. The extra leaf had to be handmade due to my truck also having Maxloader overload springs installed. I was there for about 2 hours and the total bill including tax was $415.82, out the door. All I had to do was to stay out of the way.

Truck actually rides smoother with the added leaf than when I brought it in. I thought that this might happen because my stock spring pack had flattened out a bit, causing it to contact the overloads on any small bump or dip in the road. The ride is more firm than before, but definitely not harsh in any way, not objectionable. My measurement at the rear wheel well before the added leaf was 41 1/4 inches and after the leaf was 42inches, so only a 3/4 inch increase in the height. That means I won't have to made any adjustments to my fifth wheel hitch nor to the pin box. That's good.

General Spring ships a hundred springs all over the place every day from their well stocked warehouse. Give them a call if you want help. General Spring | Shop Leaf Springs | OEM Heavy Duty Replacement Leaf Springs
 
#17 ·
Damn I wish I lived in Kansas Ron! I've been looking it's between general spring and SD Truck springs. Both are about equal in cost and then the shipping hits you and it's around $100 just to ship to Ohio.�� I even tried asking some of the good local suspension shops and none of them make springs just order them, I ask how much knowing they will just order from the Internet and upcharge and i get a price of $400 a spring smh
 
#18 ·
Here's some pics, I spoke with guy at my local suspension shop, for some reason he told me to check bushings incase of bushing failure on the one side. I did and all like new with bolt perfectly centered
 

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#21 ·
Just ordered from ATS Spring out of PA! I spoke with the owner Bob and he knew more about leaf springs than the 3 other bigger companies I talked to combined. Great knowledgeable man and he stayed on the phone for 40 minutes evaluating and discussing the situation. Shipping was alot cheaper and 2 news springs shall be here by Friday with the new bushings already pressed along with some grade 8 hardware can't wait!
 
#25 ·
Well guys turns out I spent roughly 4 hours changing out the new springs last night (ran into a few unexpected things) but got them done and lowered truck off lift and same exact thing smh. My front drivers side is slightly lower than the front passenger side so I started to mess with torsion on the one side and it was getting to late. I got the measurement alot closer and it did start to level out the rear so I'm guessing that's it. If the front is evened out the remaining that's left it's possibly going to be level is what I'm thinking. It's just wierd how the drivers side torsion is going to be cranked alot more than the passenger side one to achieve sitting equal on the front. Will this be alright? Is this normal?
 
#26 ·
Get the front level, side to side and then see how the back looks. You should have a level truck with new springs. It sounds like that will happen.

Then you need to look at the front again. You say that " the drivers side torsion is going to be cranked alot more than the passenger side one to achieve sitting equal on the front". There is some worn/broken component(s) on the front suspension. Or possibly motor mounts, or transmission mount. The Z-height needs to be checked and corrected if needed. The Z-height adjustment will put the front end in the correct geometry and level side to side.
 

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#27 ·
The rear axle was dead even as it rose from both jack stands and when lowered it hit the ground first and was even until the front started to touch the ground, then came the lean, I will try correcting the torsion a little more on the drivers side first(raising to even it with the passengers side). It won't be maxed but it will be significantly different front the passengers side torsion bolt position. It's funny when making turns my drivers side would always rub and passengers side wouldn't so it all sorta makes sense!
 
#33 ·
Set your Z-height correctly per the attachment. Adjusting your torsion bar in the front end affects the rear also. Have you measured your height at each wheel well? How far off are they?
 
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