Turn Signal wierdness... - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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Old 07-23-2010, 07:59 PM   eBay Motors  #1 (permalink)
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Turn Signal wierdness...

I'm a new Duramax owner, 2002, 2500HD, 2wd, CC. We purchased it along with a 32 RV...
however - while troubleshooting a trailer wiring issue this afternoon, I somehow crossed or shorted something and now NONE of the turn signals on the truck work with the blinker switch. Here's what happens with the truck connected and disconnected from the trailer

Push the turn signal Left; nothing, zip, zilch... not even a flash in the cab
Push the turn signal Right; nothing... same...
Push the emergency flashers; LEFT FLASHER WORKS
Push the e-flasher & the Right Turn Signal; BOTH LEFT & RIGHT FLASHER WORK

This is very confusing to me. - Even a wiring diagram would be helpful!

I checked every single fuse 3 times and can't seem to figure out what's going on. I checked the flasher relay (on the back-side of the cabin fuse box) and it seems to be working correctly along with the fuses and relays under the hood.

I would GREATLY appreciate any help / insight. I've searched the forums and, unless i'm not putting the correct key words, can't seem to find this issue.

Last edited by maxjason; 07-23-2010 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 07-24-2010, 03:42 PM   eBay Motors  #2 (permalink)
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I'm having issues with my turn signal/ cruise control. I have a fuse blowing.

My research points to a bad multiswitch for people who have issues and no blown fuses. Might be a starting point for you. This is a new issue for me though.

Good luck.
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2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic 2500HD LT3 Crew-Cab, Short-Bed
Engine/ Tune: 6.6L LBZ, DSP2 by Duramaxtuner.com, AMSOIL AME 15w-40, AMSOIL Ea Filter
Exhaust: Banks 4'' Turbo-Back (Downpipe-Back, Cat Delete, Muffler Delete), EGR Block Plate
Transmission/ Drive-line: Stock, CV Front Drive Shaft, AMSOIL ATF, AMSOIL SVG 75w-90
Suspension/ Steering: Custom Cognito 4'' Non-TBD, Pitman/ Idler Support, HD Tie Rods, 1.5'' Front/ Rear Sway Bars, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Borgeson Intermediate Steering Shaft
Tires/ Wheels: Toyo Open Country AT LT285/75/17E, MT Classic II 17X9 5'' BS, 0 OffSet (No Rub)
Other: Fumoto Drain Valve, Mag-Hytec Rear Diff Cover, Line-X, PIE Auxiliary Input Adapter, Billet Resonator Plug, Timken Bearings
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Old 07-25-2010, 11:33 AM   eBay Motors  #3 (permalink)
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Can you point me in the direction of the multi switch... Or is it the actual lever sticking oh from the steering column?
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Old 07-25-2010, 11:55 AM   eBay Motors  #4 (permalink)
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Yes, the lever is part of the switch which is mounted in the steering column. I believe the OEM is AC Delco.
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2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic 2500HD LT3 Crew-Cab, Short-Bed
Engine/ Tune: 6.6L LBZ, DSP2 by Duramaxtuner.com, AMSOIL AME 15w-40, AMSOIL Ea Filter
Exhaust: Banks 4'' Turbo-Back (Downpipe-Back, Cat Delete, Muffler Delete), EGR Block Plate
Transmission/ Drive-line: Stock, CV Front Drive Shaft, AMSOIL ATF, AMSOIL SVG 75w-90
Suspension/ Steering: Custom Cognito 4'' Non-TBD, Pitman/ Idler Support, HD Tie Rods, 1.5'' Front/ Rear Sway Bars, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Borgeson Intermediate Steering Shaft
Tires/ Wheels: Toyo Open Country AT LT285/75/17E, MT Classic II 17X9 5'' BS, 0 OffSet (No Rub)
Other: Fumoto Drain Valve, Mag-Hytec Rear Diff Cover, Line-X, PIE Auxiliary Input Adapter, Billet Resonator Plug, Timken Bearings
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Old 07-25-2010, 03:09 PM   eBay Motors  #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSparks View Post
I'm having issues with my turn signal/ cruise control. I have a fuse blowing.

My research points to a bad multiswitch for people who have issues and no blown fuses. Might be a starting point for you. This is a new issue for me though.

Good luck.
we have an 06 we just got and it started having signal problems. like they would quit working along with the hazards. also the wipers would not work once. i have pin pointed it to the fuse block in the side of the drivers dash. with moving wires and pushing on teh fuses they would start working. i even left the cover off and it seems to work longer.
but my guess is the contacts for teh fuses are dirty. i am going to try contact cleaner on teh fuse contacts in the block. i will even take the wire plug off and clean those contacts also.
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:34 AM   eBay Motors  #6 (permalink)
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Sounds like something i should try.
1. Anyone have a diagram showing how the different relays should be oriented in the blocks?
2. The relay junction box close to the brake pedal under the dash - i'm guessing that's for the trailer wiring, correct? Any idea how those relays are supposed to be arranged? Could someone post-up a picture of how their's are oriented?
3. Is replacing the multi-switch something that a 'weekend garage mechanic' can do? - directions?
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Old 07-28-2010, 05:58 AM   eBay Motors  #7 (permalink)
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Wanted to let everyone know what the outcome of my issue was. Turns out that, indeed, the turn signal switch had gone out. Regarding removal, I wish I had taken pictures but didn't remember until I was putting the column pieces back together. Here are the steps:

**Disconnect battery negatives for both batteries.**

1. Remove steering column top and bottom covers - this can be accomplished WITHOUT removing the steering wheel. The tilt-lever pops out easily if you use a flat blade screw-driver

2. Remove the lower kick panel under the steering column (2 screws (7mm) on bottom and 2 push-in friction locks on top under the upper panel)

3. Behind the (now removed) lower kick panel, there's a metal u-shaped bracket / panel with 4 nuts (2 on each side; 10mm), remove this panel as you'll need to gain access to the plug receptacle

4. You should then see the large wiring harness plug receptacle directly below the steering columnÖ take a few deep breaths; it isnít as bad as it looks. Loosen the center bolt in the plug (7mm) Ė this attaches the wire bundle from the steering column to the receptacle. You may need to use needle-nose pliers to help pull the plug from the receptacle, mine was really tight.
There will be two bar-type connectors; one is grey, the other is black Ė make sure to note which side of the plug they went on, then remove them from the plug.

5. Once the lower harness is plug is removed, you still have 2 smaller wire connectors to loosen.
A. The first one is attached to the top back part of the steering column (follow the Black/Dark Green wires); it does something with the Automatic Transmission. There will be a bright-green clip-like item visible in a black connector, use a flat screw-driver to push the bright green clip out. Then press to release the black connector.
B. The second one is attached to the upper right portion of the steering column (near the shifter); it attaches to a small grey indicator switch (AT again?) which can be easily removed to allow quick disconnect of the connector.

At this time, all the wires connecting the switch should be free and disconnected

6. Removal of the actual switch is fairly easy; there are two Torx (canít remember size, ~25 I think) head bolts, one is on top of the steering column (easy to get to), the other is on the lower left (more difficult but doable). After those bolts are removed, installation of the new switch and cables is accomplished in the opposite order.

Iím certainly not a mechanic but was able to do this in a couple of hours. I bought a Chilton manual and used the wiring diagrams in the back to determine that my switch was badÖ $250 for a switch, a few hours later, and some choice frustrating words and I had it fixed.
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