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*******'s LML Dually Build Thread

244K views 1K replies 84 participants last post by  TexasRedNeck 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, after some prodding by a few members I have decided to begin my build thread for my 2013 LML Dually.

This is not intended to be a my pecker is bigger than your pecker thread or a brag thread, but I collection of the things I've done to my truck based on my unique desires, needs, and whims. I do it with an eye towards folks that have an interest in learning different ways of looking at and doing things and will do my dead level best to do these in the format of DIY with pics and instructions to help those who want to know how and why I did things a certain way.

A word of caution. I typically over think and over engineer and over spend. I try for the subtle and factory appearing look wherever possible. (since I have an LB7 on a 12 inch lift with 37s for the not so subtle)

This will take a while to get up to speed since I bought the truck in June 2013 and have many mods and projects to get caught up on.

Here is how it began. My DD was a 2007 MB CLS that I bought new in 2007. At 70,000 miles on it and the month before I bought the LML, it cost me $6000 in repairs for an AC evaporator and air struts. I had enough, plus I wanted to get a 5th wheel and my LB7 was not the right truck to pull it with because it looks like this:

So, I traded this:

On this:

Drove 6 hours to Vernon Texas from Houston after cutting the deal over the phone.

And so it begins.

In keeping with some other build threads I'll try to keep this page as an index of sorts and a list of mods:

Table of Contents

Post #1
*2013 GMC K3500SLT, Victory Red and tan, heated/cooled leather, navigation, sunroof, and all options except rear sliding window and rear entertainment
* B&W Turnball and Companion 5th wheel hitch
*Rhino Liner - Didn't know the difference between low and high pressure. Wish I had known and specified high pressure.
* Ceramic Tint
* Expel clear bra on the front and the rear fenders
* Raptor 6 inch oval wheel to wheel steps.
* Weather Tech floor liners
* Replace mud flaps with diamond plate aluminum

Post #7
Replaced all the shocks with Bilstein 5100, including adding a 5100 steering stabilizer
Denali Radio wood grain bezel

Post #9
Nicktane 1micron microglass filter and filterhead with fender well door

Post #22
60Gal RDS tool box tank combo

Post #29
De-badged - not de molded

Post #30
Phillps HID 6000K low beams

Post #31
Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass and amsoil oil change

Post #33
Rear ended and color matched mirrors and bumper

Post #40
Crushed the new tailgate...remove replace

Post #41
Fleabay 6000k HID fogs

Post 45
Physical mounting of the on board air components
* Viair dual 440C compressors/ 5gal tank
* Wolo train horns
* Firestone Rideright airbags with custom fabricated valving

Post 57
Pondering the CTS mount location

Post #75
LB7 Sob Story

Post #82 and #83
Wiring system for the air system, air bags, horn switch, compressor switch, trailer TPMS

Post #87
First interior LEDs (fail) and dually fender marker lights

Post #94
Transynd flush and fill

Post #103
AD165

Post #113
Custom CTS Mount

Post #114

Glock Holster

Post #132
EAS wiring for Pressure and temperature gauge

Post #137
EAS EGT Pyro installation

Post #155
Rear Diff Cover fabrication and installation of the temp probe

Post #177,19,200,210,249
Parts coming in for the delete party!

Post #307,313,314,315,316,319,322

Delete party!

Post #347

First Oil Analyis results with Amsoil extended drain interval

Post# 439
New steel valve stems and 7 tire rotation

Post #475
New wheel well tool box

Post #497
New antenna for the TST trailer TPMS


Bought it with the Rhino Liner and B&W turnball and companion installed.

Glad I opted out of the GM steps as I went with the Raptor 6 inch oval wheel to wheel, which I love because it helps me get into the toolbox and unhook the 5th wheel. Drove the back roads for 500 miles to break in the rear end on my way to Memphis from Vernon, straight from picking it up at the dealer. Had to pick up the family from an extended visit to the in-laws. So I ended the first week with 1200 miles.

First stop was my parking garage at the office to prove the guys at the office wrong, that it would actually fit. Of course I had to bribe the building manager with a bottle of Jack to raise the entrance pipe about an inch to keep it from hitting the roof.


The next week I took it to the shop to have Xpel clear bra put on the hood, front fenders and bumper cover as well as a custom patterned full rear fender piece for the hips.

No other mods before it was off to Ohio to pick up the new 5th wheel. Stopped for a ROTM photo.

and then picked this up

Installed the steps

The replaced the dealer advertisement on the mud flaps

a few pop rivets and some diamond plate

Then added the Weather Tech liners
 
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10
#4 ·
#7 ·
Hamilton, OH to Jeff Couch's RV Nation. Saved 10k

View of the river from my hotel. Had a steak at the Precinct on the way through Cinci.

 
#6 · (Edited)
Then came the Bilstein 5100's all around including adding the steering stabilizer. Did it at night with a flashlight and an impact. Took about 20 minutes total. Did get pictures of the old ones in the floor. They'll be going to JDub for his project.


Although I liked the Denali, finding a victory red one was nearly impossible and even though I like the lower grill I wanted to have a little chrome on the front. However I did not like the lack of the one wood grain piece around the radio. I'm digging for those pictures.
Replaced this:

with this:

using this:

Ordered the GM Part off ebay. Got a pretty good deal. Don't overlook ebay for OEM parts. Often dealers give discounts and sell on ebay.
The cheap set of molding pry tools are a must. The bezel has three clips down each side. I started at the top right and worked my way down. Don't get rambunctious and you won't break it. I've seem some others install switches along each side but larger switches required some back trimming. Again, I wanted to keep it low key and factory-ish so switches there weren't an option for me.

Next we get into some better mods and better pictures; Up next, the Nicktane filter, adapter, and filter door.
 
#14 ·
Do you have a part number or link for those pry tools?
 
#8 · (Edited)
My experience with the Nicktane on the LML was a slightly different experience so I thought I would do a write up.

2013 GMC Crew Cab Dually with 7,418 miles. It is used to pull my 42 ft fifth wheel and remain mostly stock since it is under warranty. (e.g. no ECU programming, DPF delete, etc)



After experiencing injector failures on other diesels in the past, and researching and reading articles about the quality of diesel filtration and contamination and the effects on high pressure diesel injector systems, I felt the need for better filtration and chose the Nicktane adapter and the Nicktane Microglass 1 micron filter. (later I will add the axillary filter kit)

To facilitate maintenance, I decided to remove the inner fender and install the access door from MadJack Diesel. I highly recommend using the clip tool/pliers they sell. I bought them a while back and love them.

Off comes the passenger wheel and inner fender.





Carefully unplug the WIF sensor. I will not be using it with the new filter.



Open the WIF Drain - nothing but fuel. Good sign after 1800 mile road trip



I've read the stock filter is 60% efficient at 7 microns, but perhaps the new Delco is better? Don't know and a little late now. The Nicktane Microglass is 1 micron and pure synthetic media.



Not that I will ever need this in South Texas, but intersting to note they zip tie the block heater cord (made in China) to the AC plumbing on the passenger side.



Top side : this is why I want the filter access door in the inner fender. Not much room to navigate. Off comes the air intake elbow to gain access.



Two 5/16 hose clamps, one on each end. Note the black bracket that runs from the filter housing bracket to the throttle body and holds the dipstick. This has to come off to facilitate getting the longer bolts into the bracket that holds the fuel filter housing.



I used 1/2 inch open end wrench to remove the two bolts holding the filter housing onto the bracket attached to the head. There is a pipe that feeds water to the heater that is bolted to the top of the filter housing, remove that bolt during this process too. The fuel filter housing will need to be spaced out about 1/2 inch to accept the aftermarket filter or it hits the bracket at the bottom. Here is where it got a little interesting for me.

I bought the spacer kit but the bolts that came with it are too short for the LML. Apparently the LML has a thicker boss on the bracket that hold the filter housing. I have hear that some just add washers to space it out, but the engineers had a certain amount of threads engaged in the filter housing body for a reason, right? I buy 8x1.125x60 mm bolts because that's all NAPA had. As it turns out even when I remove the interfering bolts and bracket as shown later, the 60's won't fit, went to Lowe's and bought 50mm metric bolts to increase the length and account for the spacer. Multiple trips to the store really increases the install time.



These were 60 mm so I was going to use them with washers on the back. No dice. As it turns out, the bracket that holds the filter housing has bolts that interfere with the longer bolts when you try to insert them into the holes from the back. Nothing is ever easy right?



You can see here that I have removed the bracket that stabilizes the throttle body (2 bolts at the top and bottom included the two interfering bolts of the bracket that holds the filter housing). Those bolts also secure the bottom of a bracket that stabilizes the throttle body housing and oil dip stick. I had to remove the top two bolts on the bracket where it meets the throttle body housing to remove the bracket and give my self room to insert the 50mm bolts.



Drop the spacer in from the top. Note the hose clamp on the outlet hose close to the heater hose pipe - I rotated this to not have the ears rub the heater hose pipe.

Since I won't be using the WIF I cut a piece of closed cell foam to fit in the connector, coated the inside of the connector with dielectric grease and then inserted the foam and taped with electrical tape to preserve the contacts in case I want to return to stock later.

The use a T-20 screwdriver to remove the check ball holder from the bottom side of the filter housing and remove the ball and spring. Replace and tighten the holder sans spring and ball.

Install the Nicktane adapter. I used a rubber strap wrench to make sure it was tight. Lube the O rings a bit. Install the Microglass filter. I wrote the date and mileage on it. Remove the bleeder screw, slowly depress the primer bulb until fuel comes out without bubbles, install the bleeder screw.



Now on to the access door install. I assumed the LMM and LML fender liners would be the same but either they are not or I installed it oriented the wrong way. Either way, when I lined it up part of it over hung a stepped down contour of the inner fender so I trimmed it with tin snips








I scribed the trimmed panel outline on the inner fender. Then deducted about an inch around the perimeter for mounting (and to preserve one of the fasteners that hold the flexible water shield near the A Arm) and cut out the opening with tin snips.






Since the part I cut off included some mounting holes I drilled equally spaced holes and also drilled the inner liner where the other holes were. I suggest inserting the fasteners as you go to eliminate the shifting of the panel and misalignment of holes. So here is the end product for access next time.



So in the end, I got where I wanted to go, but since no one advised me that the bolts supplied with the spacer kit were too short and that longer bolts to provide the same thread engagement in the housing would require the removal of the bracket stabilizing the throttle body housing, it was a bit of a goat rope for a little while. In the end it turned out fine.

Sorry for the bad pics. They looked fine on the display of the little digital camera outdoors while I was doing it. I'm not undoing it all to redo the pics.......

I hope this helps someone and if I omitted any information or someone has better ideas or experience, feel free to comment. You won't hurt my feelings.

Next was to install the RDS 60 gallon Tool box auxiliary tank combo. Sure helps towing the ******* Hotel at 10mpg. I made it from Ruidoso to Houston without filling up.
 
#10 ·
On the access door, i trimmed that bottom piece a little wider than the door and it gives you alot more room.


I put two of the clips they gave me between the door and the lil piece and just leave them in when i remove it. Oh and BTW...they are diff. I ordered two, one for me and one for a buddy and the LML GMC and Chevy were diff!
 
#11 ·
Well, after some prodding by a few members I have decided to begin my build thread for my 2013 LML Dually.

This is not intended to be a my pecker is bigger than your pecker thread or a brag thread, but I collection of the things I've done to my truck based on my unique desires, needs, and whims. I do it with an eye towards folks that have an interest in learning different ways of looking at and doing things and will do my dead level best to do these in the format of DIY with pics and instructions to help those who want to know how and why I did things a certain way.

A word of caution. I typically over think and over engineer and over spend. I try for the subtle and factory appearing look wherever possible. (since I have an LB7 on a 12 inch lift with 37s for the not so subtle)

This will take a while to get up to speed since I bought the truck in June 2013 and have many mods and projects to get caught up on.

Here is how it began. My DD was a 2007 MB CLS that I bought new in 2007. At 70,000 miles on it and the month before I bought the LML, it cost me $6000 in repairs for an AC evaporator and air struts. I had enough, plus I wanted to get a 5th wheel and my LB7 was not the right truck to pull it with because it looks like this:

So, I traded this:

On this:

Drove 6 hours to Vernon Texas from Houston after cutting the deal over the phone.

And so it begins.

In keeping with some other build threads I'll try to keep this page as an index of sorts and a list of mods:

1.2013 GMC K3500SLT, Victory Red and tan, heated/cooled leather, navigation, sunroof, and all options except rear sliding window and rear entertainment
2. B&W Turnball and Companion 5th wheel hitch
3. Rhino Liner - Didn't know the difference between low and high pressure. Wish I had known and specified high pressure.
4. Ceramic Tint
5. Expel clear bra on the front and the rear fenders
6. Raptor 6 inch oval wheel to wheel steps.
7. Weather Tech floor liners
7A. Replaced all the shocks with Bilstein 5100, including adding a 5100 steering stabilizer
8. Replace mud flaps - diamond plate aluminum
9. Denali Radio wood grain bezel
10. Nicktane 1micron microglass filter and filterhead with fender well door
11. 60Gal RDS tool box tank combo
12. De-badged - not de molded
13. Phillps HID 6000K low beams
14. Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass and amsoil oil change
15. Fleabay 6000k HID fogs
16. Viair dual 440C compressors/ 5gal tank
17. Wolo train horns
18. Firestone Rideright airbags with custom fabricated valving
19. LED interior lights.
20. Insight CTS with rear diff temp sending and air pressure sender for air bags
21. Transynd dual flush and fill
22. Transfer fuel pump
23. AD165

Bought it with the Rhino Liner and B&W turnball and companion installed.

Glad I opted out of the GM steps as I went with the Raptor 6 inch oval wheel to wheel, which I love because it helps me get into the toolbox and unhook the 5th wheel. Drove the back roads for 500 miles to break in the rear end on my way to Memphis from Vernon, straight from picking it up at the dealer. Had to pick up the family from an extended visit to the in-laws. So I ended the first week with 1200 miles.

First stop was my parking garage at the office to prove the guys at the office wrong, that it would actually fit. Of course I had to bribe the building manager with a bottle of Jack to raise the entrance pipe about an inch to keep it from hitting the roof.


The next week I took it to the shop to have Xpel clear bra put on the hood, front fenders and bumper cover as well as a custom patterned full rear fender piece for the hips.

No other mods before it was off to Ohio to pick up the new 5th wheel. Stopped for a ROTM photo.

and then picked this up

Installed the steps

The replaced the dealer advertisement on the mud flaps

a few pop rivets and some diamond plate

Then added the Weather Tech liners
Man, gotta tell ya, I like that truck! Wish it didn't have all the electronic nonsense on it, but it is one good looking truck!

Nice university of Tennessee shirt!:poke[1]:
 
#12 ·
#15 ·
#17 ·
sub'd! although i can only see some of the pics... What that horn setup run you if you dont mind me asking? you can PM me if you rather.
 
#18 ·
Wolo 847 Siberian express. $107 amazon with no air supply


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 
#19 ·
thats a good price. everything i looked at was like 500 just the horns...
 
#21 · (Edited)
Ok, so lets get started on the RDS tank install. I bought the RDS 60 gallon tool/tank combo with fuel safe (meaning the filler is under the lid and not exposed) from Northern Tool. Not fantastic build quality but pretty good. I originally had it in my 2001 LB7 but decided it belonged in my dually.

If you recall at the beginning of the thread that I over think, over engineer and over spend? Here is a great example of that in epic fail mode.

Because the DIC and fuel gauge go haywire when you let the aux tank feed into the main tank without a valve I decided that I would use an electric valve to re-fil the main tank from the aux tank when it was empty. (when the computer senses that the truck has been driven a while and the gauge does not move it assumes a fault and drops the gauge to empty until the next key cycle)

So I get the valve off ebay and begin to fabricate a bracket with scrap 1/8 aluminum. The valve comes with 6mm holes in the bottom for mounting.





You can see here the temporary gravity feed set up (I have a manual valve attached to the outlet of the auxillary tank.
So I think to myself, "self I need a timed relay that will leave the valve open for a specified time and then close". So I search out and find an IDEC relay capable of timed operation and spend $70 on it. I time the amount of time it takes my tank to fill up the main and it's right about 22 minutes. I spend an hour figuring out how to program it, wire it and then realize that when the aux tank is half full it takes longer since the pressure on the outlet is lower.


This relay is actually very cool. You can set it to use a momentary impulse signal to turn a circuit on or off a predermined amount of time from like a tenth of a second to 600 hours. It does a host of other functions like turn one circuit on while the other stays off too so if you want to know look up IDEC RTE-B2D12 I had intended to have a push button switch that when pressed momentarily it would activate the relay and open the valve for 25 minutes and then shut off. Someone even suggested that I could wire the trigger for the relay to read the low fuel light signal in the fuel gauge and it would do it automatically. That would be sick! But alas, way to anal and over engineered.

Then it hits me. I have way over thought this and I need to just use a 12v pump and switch.

So while I wait to wire up a multi circuit harness and install switches in my overhead console this is what I have. Ball valve and gravity feed. I get out and turn the valve when I need to refill. I will have a fuel pump wired in shortly and it will appear in the build thread in order.



Once piece of advice about mounting the tank. Make sure that you leave room between the back of the tank and the front of the bed for the top to open as it takes a couple of inches. Also, if you intend to put a rolling bed cover you have to allow for the box to be between the tank and bed too.

And this pic shows why I bought a long bed. By the time you install the tank you have very little room for a 5th wheel if you don't have the long box.

Up next: Debadging with 3M eraser wheel and Goof Off
 
#24 ·
And this pic shows why I bought a long bed. By the time you install the tank you have very little room for a 5th wheel if you don't have the long box.
Now you tell me!!:poke[1]::rofl
 
#22 ·
Nicely done. Keep going.












BTW, your pecker IS bigger, Im built like a third grader and proud of it...............
 
#23 ·
BTW, your pecker IS bigger, Im built like a third grader and proud of it...............
What has too thumbs and is happy when IT goes bang? "This guy"!:neener
 
#26 ·
Simple is often best. Next time we get together, you need to let me wire that switch in the cab so you don't have to get out. Flip it and watch it fill while you are rolling. We need a shop gathering place to drink beer tell lies and work on trucks as a group....
 
#28 · (Edited)
So I decided I didn't want to have emblems on my truck. I bought a 3M eraser wheel, Goof Off cleaner, and got some 30lb fishing line tied to some sticks as handles. Note to self. Don't buy anything from Grainger unless it is an emergency. They are higher than Justin Beiber at a gay film festival. No need to heat the emblems in Houston in 90 degree weather. Just put the line behind the emblem and saw through.



So here is where I start to hyper ventilate a bit. All the emblems off and I'm wondering how this eraser wheel is going to work without eating through my clear coat or paint. Turns out this is the darndest thing. With the cordless drill on low speed it just eats the goo off and leaves a residue.



After wiping up well with the Goof Off residue remover

and the finished product.

If I can figure out a way to get rid of the GMC on the grill that will be a good thing. Note it works the same for the door moulding if you choose to go smooth sided....

Up next: Really expensive HIDs
 
#29 · (Edited)
I do things the hard way because I usually over engineer everything. There are many ways to do HIDs but this is my chosen way.

First, from the "more money than sense" category, I purchased genuine Phillips 35W 6000K HIDs from autolampsonline. $258 from across the pond. I like the idea of having OEM quality on the headlamps. Time will tell if they are worth 5X what I paid for the ones in my 2001, which occasionally has one ballast that does not want to fire up.

Second, the engineers at GM should be summarily shot for how difficult they made it to remove the headlamps/housings in in the NBS trucks. Geez man, my 2001 is two skewers from up top and they flop out. With these you have 2 choices. One: remove the aux battery and the air box to gain access to the bulbs, which are still hard to get to if you have big hands and it did not give me good insight into where I wanted to mount the ballasts and such. Two: you can remove the grill and the headlight housings, which on the Chevy is apparently easier than the GMC. However, once you get the housings out you can easily see how to mount the ballasts and route wiring to keep it all neat.

So, in keeping with my hard headed ways, I chose to do it the harder of the two ways. Step 1, remove the radiator cover/shroud by opening the hood and then removing the plastic clips that hold it on. Tip, Merchant Automotive makes some great clip removal pliers and I suggest you have a set. Clip Removal Tool

Then remove the bolts holding the top of the grill to the core support. 4 of them if I recall correctly (10mm bolts).

Then at the front of each front wheel well remove the 2 small screws holding the upper bumper fascia (that painted piece between the bumper and the grill) This piece is what makes the GMC much more time consuming than the Chevy. Once these screws are out gently work the top edge of the fascia out of the groove in the fender and headlamps. It snaps out of the channel. When you get to the part directly under the grill, you reach between the grill and the radiator and feel for he tabs on the fascia that interact with the grill. Depress the middle of the tab down to disengage from the grill and continue to work towards the other side. Once you have it out set it gently out of the way and don't step on it.



Then with a pair of slip joint pliers compress and release the 6 or 8 clips that hold the grill on from behind and remove the grill.



The head light has 3 10mm bolts. Two up top and one to the outside and bottom of the housing. It is accessible from the gap between the bracket that holds the bumper fascia on. Once those are out, the 4th attachment point is a joint that slides outwards once you have disengaged plastic posts on the back of the light that engage the fender.

Neatness counts, so I chose to mount the ballast to the core support by using a self tapping screws, which also gives me the ground necessary for the proper operation. I then drill some holes in the core support that allow me to insert zip ties to hold the cables and other boxes which I presume are the control circuitry.




The factory pig tail and the HID pig tail connections are all in the same vicinity now and nothing is likely to rattle.

I put dielectric grease in all the fittings and take care not to touch the bulbs as the are installed. If you choose to install HIDs from behind without removing the headlight assembly, getting the bulb in without roughing it up could be a challenge. It is much easier when it is on the bench.



Because HIDs take about 10 seconds to come to full brightness, I chose to retain the factory high beams since I don' often drive with high beams anyway. Hook'em has a post where he lists out the 9011 bulb as a replacement for the high beam 9005. It requires a little trimming but is a higher wattage bulb. I may try that later for the high beams. I like the brightness, the color rendering (not blue) and there is no interference with my AM radio signal like the cheap fleabay lights I installed in the fogs (write up coming)


Test before reassembling and then enjoy.

Up Next: Amsoil fan boys dual remote filter install and how I met Jdub...
 
#30 · (Edited)
OK second project of the day after the HIDs was the Amsoil Remote Bypass kit. Thanks to Madjack Diesel for the bracket and to Willie Parson's for the kit. (I found that Willie carries the bracket too but I had already bought mine and I like the folks at MadJack too)

I did my first oil change on my truck at 7500 miles so, again, under the heading of doing it the hard way (or the expensive way), I decided after the fact that I wanted to get the remote set up. I set about to install the remote filter kit with 10,000 miles on the truck. Just wasted a perfectly good filter and about a quart of really expensive oil by not doing it all at once.

Oh and BTW, when I bought all the oil and stuff from Willie the first time I did the oil change, I bought 3 extra Amsoil filters which I no longer needed. JDub saw my DIY post and offered to buy them, which led to us meeting up one evening and it turns out he is quite a cool cat, even if he's a bit of a temporarily banned outlaw at the moment.

Alright. Lets get started.

This is why you use this kit. over 98% effective at 2 microns. That will keep the engine clean!

Its rainy and cold here in Houston today so fold the mirrors in and nose the front into the garage. DRW back end is not going through the garage door but I got enough in the garage to keep it out of the wind.



Pull the stock location filter off and then mount the EZ Mount EZ-Bypass Mount - MadJack Diesel Performance

Easy as can be. Re located the wire harness near the oval hole in the frame and use the one bolt and washer to secure the mount to the inside of the frame rail. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the cab in an area that would not penetrate the floor of the cab and re-used the factory push in retaining clip to mount it to the bottom of the cab to keep it out of the way.



Then mock up the filter head to make sure you have clearance. So happens that I am using the optional sampling valve

and it would have interfered with the fuel lines so I had to get a 1/4 MIP elbow to keep the valve from hitting the lines. Thanks to Flyin6 for the idea to get the sampling valve from following his build thread.



One tip here: Pre fill the oil filters with oil.

Do this first as they soak up a lot of oil. Add to the top then go back and work. Then come back and refill to the top. Repeat at least 10 times. These filters hold 2 quarts and another 8 ounces to get them completely full. You don't want the engine starved for oil during start up the first time.

install all the fittings on the filter housing and use thread sealant on all connections.



Mount the filter housing

and then mount the filter adapter.

Follow the instructions. It says to mock up the filter adapter to see where and how you want the connections positioned. The center nut is about 1 3/4 inch. I don't have anything but a large crescent wrench that will fit that. So although there aren't really good pics of it, it is a large cup that replaces the factory filter. It as a large hollow bolt that goes through the cup to the threads in the factory filter housing on the engine and holds the cup and o-ring in place. The lines attach to that hollow bolt and the other connects to the side of the cup.



Install the fittings into the adapter, again using sealant on the threads being careful not to get sealant on the last couple of threads to keep sealant out of your engine.

Then begin to assemble and mock up your lines. Cut the hose a couple of inches longer than you will need and then trim to get it right. You don't want too much hose but you need to leave just a little slack to allow for engine movement. These are two part fittings. Hose screws into the collar and then the fitting screws into the collar.




One piece of advice here that is not part of the manual. I would not install the fitting on the inlet of the filter housing closest to the drive shaft until you get the inner side installed and the hose completed and tightened. It will make it easier to get on the fitting if you wait to install the inner fitting and hose until after the out side closest to the frame is installed.

As you are tightening the fittings you may want to hold the body of the fitting with another 1" wrench to keep from twisting the hose.

Here you can see the completed installation with the sampling valve. Make sure you have the sampling valve tightened well with a pair of pliers before you start it for the first time. Don't ask me how i know to do this......

Run it and check for leaks.



Up next. Less than 6 months old and get tagged in the ass while sitting still. And how that turned to the silver lining of paint matching!
 
#32 · (Edited)
So I was leaving the office and headed downtown to meet a client one Wednesday afternoon. Got to a stop light waiting to turn right at the light when.....bump. This DB hits me while I am sitting stopped. I thinking, man, I'm kinda hard to miss. 22ft long, 8 ft wide, 6 1/2 ft tall and bright red. And it was less than 6 months old.


Bad day for him but at least he was apologetic and had good insurance. What could I do? Shoot him?

Unfortunately he hit me at an angle and his hood rolled up and topped my bumper and got into the fender. What you can't see is that the musket exhaust got bent a little. As many of you deleters have learned that is all one piece and that piece alone was over $2000 - the pipe includes the DPF and runs all the way back and includes the musket.

Total cost to repair, almost $6K
So while I had it in I had them sand, prep and paint the mirrors and the lower bumper valence and air dam.

Silver lining to the emotional distress of a new vehicle in a wreck. I really like the difference it made. Unfortunately I forgot to tell them to paint the mickey mouse hood pimple...

Before

After


Next up. Not out of the shop a week and I crush the newly repaired tailgate with my fifth wheel.
 
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