How well did it work? Results pay off? Any before and after measurements?

 

I Didn't shoot the vents with My thermal gun beforehand, but I could tell it wasn't performing as well as last year when it was much hotter here. After, high moves more air and the condensation level went down with much less draining than before. And the musty smell disipated.
The payoff? It was cheap and it did the trick. I ordered two cans, that was enough to do this truck, the two RV ACs and I still have a can left.

 

http://db.tt/YOMMwuLW

Hello, I am looking at the photos and a few seem to be dead links or missing photos..

I could be wrong but wouldn't it be easier to remove the blower motor and reach in spraying to condenser instead of drilling the hole? Supposedly according to alldata the blower once disconnected it rotates out and drops out. .

See the diagram from my drop box listed to see what I am getting at. . The blower is at number 5 position. .

 

Yes, you could pull the fan. Not sure if it makes the task easier tho.
I see some images are missing. I'll check the host.

 

Where did you get the einszett cleaner?

 

Amazone or FleaBay, don't remember.

einszett 961105 Klima Cleaner Professional

 

Need to clean mine....Amazon has the cleaner

 

Thanks lol I drove all around town today looking for it at auto parts stores. The looks on their faces what I was explaining to do was priceless! Lol

 

Bumping this - anyone use this from autozone? Lubegard® KOOL-IT® 96030 - Evaporator & Heater Foam Cleaner | O'Reilly Auto Parts

"Lubegard® KOOL-IT® - Evaporator & Heater Foam Cleaner"

 

Anybody use this Kool-It stuff? I'm only trying to get rid of some funky smell.

Here's a link to the directions below. Looks simple. Do we have a drain tube on the evaporator/heater core?

http://www.lubegard.com/pdfs/KI_Evaporator_Instructions.pdf

Thanks.

 

Subbed

Sent from my SPH-D710

 

It's that time of year again. humpin:

Auto Climate has the fan blowing high and it's only in the 80s out. Come back out to the parked truck after 'bout 10-15 minutes and notice water is still draining with an 18" diameter wet spot below....

^^^That's the clue, lots of drainage after parked (iced up coil melting off) Time to clean the Evap Coil again.

Unloaded the glove box, pushed in the stop/catch and lowered the door to full hinge. Pulled the (previously installed) nylon plug and filled 'er with the foaming cleaner and replaced the plug. Waited 15-20 minutes, start 'er up, roll down the windows and set the AC to 60*/Recir, getting the juices going for the rinse down.

After 5 minutes, Thermal-gun shot at ground in the shade...78*
Quick vent shot....47*

Auto Climate now has the fan blowing on low at hwy cruising speed and I swear you can feel the ice crystals in the air. :farmer

No drip after 5 minutes and the wet spot's only 6" in diameter.

 

Is what iwrock posted the same thing. On mine I put a small can of refrigerant in and it will blow cold for a week then stop. I'm thinking its a leak but at this point I'll try anything to help it.

 

My AC seems to work fine. I wonder if this is a bigger problem in the south due to dust. Here we have so much rain we don't get much dust. I think the wet weather may help to clean it. The moisture in the air would make the drain puddle bigger as well.

 

Could be. I try to always keep it set on Recir, eliminating much of the outside air pull, which I hope is limiting the dirt/pollen exposure. Plus it limits odor intrusion too from other vehicles' exhaust. But it's not total, there's still a percentage of outside air brought in to the mix. Probably a safety thing in the event of exhaust leaks?

Excessive moisture could up your mold/mildew chances, takin' you thru the nose funk ride upon start-up. In this case, you could also benefit from a periodic cleaning.

 

Thats the main reason they clean them here. Moldy smell. Recirc makes that worse.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

In your case, switching off the AC a few minutes from your arrival, letting the fan run only, will draw down the mildew/mold feeding moisture levels before parking.

 

Also not useing def or def blend so the compressor is not running in the rain helps a lot. I don't use it unless the windows fog up. Not that often if I am alone in the truck or the Vette coupe. The cabin is so small on the Vette vert it fogs up if you don't use def. But it almost never goes out in cold weather so no big deal. It almost never goes out if the top can not be down. It sits a lot LOL. Some around here leave it in def floor all winter long and there cars smell like mold by spring. It really does rain a lot here.

 

Found it

TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 99-01-39-004D
Date: August 10, 2011
Subject: Air Conditioning Odor (Install Evaporator Core Dryer Kit and Apply Cooling Coil Coating)
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
All Equipped with Air Conditioning

Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 and 2012 model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-39-004C (Section 01 - HVAC).

Condition
Some customers may comment about musty odors emitted from the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system at vehicle start-up in hot, humid conditions.
Cause
This condition may be caused by condensate build-up on the evaporator core, which does not evaporate by itself in high humidity conditions. The odor may be the result of microbial growth on the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an unpleasant musty odor into the passenger compartment.
There are several other possible sources of a musty odor in a vehicle. A common source is a water leak into the interior of the vehicle or foreign material in the HVAC air distribution system. Follow the procedures in SI for identifying and correcting water leaks and air inlet inspection.
The procedure contained in this bulletin is only applicable if the odor source has been determined to be microbial growth on the evaporator core inside the HVAC module.
Correction
Many vehicles currently incorporate an afterblow function within the HVAC control module software. The afterblow feature, when enabled, employs the HVAC blower fan to dry the evaporator after vehicle shut down and this function will inhibit microbial growth. Technicians are to confirm that the customer concern is evaporator core odor and that the vehicle has the imbedded afterblow feature, as defined in the SI document for that specific vehicle model, model year and specific HVAC option. Refer to SI for enabling the afterblow function. Vehicles being delivered in areas prone to high humidity conditions may benefit from having the afterblow enabled calibration installed prior to any customer comment.
Important
If the vehicle is not factory equipped with the imbedded afterblow enable feature, it may be added with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module Kit (P/N 12497910 or AC Delco 15-5876).

Important
When installing the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module, you MUST use the included electrical splice connectors to ensure a proper splice. Complete detailed installation instructions and self testing procedures are supplied with the kit. If necessary, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer Module may be installed underhood if it is protected from extreme heat and water splash areas.

To immediately remove the evaporator core odor on all suspect vehicles, it is necessary to eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its re-occurrence. To accomplish this, perform the following procedure:
Vehicle and Applicator Tool Preparation 1. The evaporator core must be dry . This may be accomplished by disabling the compressor and running the blower fan on the recirc heat setting for an extended period of time.
Note
Compressor engagement will cause the evaporator core to remain wet and will prevent full adherence of the Cooling Coil Coating to the evaporator core surfaces.
2. Verify that the air conditioning drain hose is not clogged and place a drain pan beneath the vehicle. 3. Place a protective cover over the carpet below the evaporator core. 4. Remove the cabin air filter, if equipped, and cover the opening prior to applying the Cooling Coil Coating, as the product may clog the filter. If the cabin air filter appears to have little or no remaining life, suggest a replacement to your customer. 5. If the HVAC module has a blower motor cooling tube, be careful NOT TO SPRAY THE COOLING COIL COATING INTO THE BLOWER MOTOR COOLING TUBE . 6. Attach the Flexible Applicator Pressure Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) to a compressed air line operating at 586 kPa (85 psi) to 793 kPa (115 psi). 7. Shake the bottle of Cooling Coil Coating well. Screw the bottle onto the cap on the applicator tool's pick-up tube.
Note
The pick-up tube is designed for 120 ml (4 oz) and 240 ml (8 oz) bottles and should coil slightly in the bottom of a 120 ml (4 oz) bottle.
8. Use one of the following three methods to apply the Cooling Coil Coating.
Important
If the Pressure Applicator Spray Tool (J-43810-20A) is not available, the Cooling Coil Coating is also available in an aerosol can (P/N 12377951 (in Canada, 10953503)).
Application Through Blower Motor Control Module Opening - Remove the blower motor control module (blower motor resistor). Refer to the applicable procedure in SI. - Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core surface. - Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor control module (blower motor resistor) opening. - Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and surrounding gasket surfaces. - When the application is complete, install the blower motor control module (blower motor resistor).
Application Through Blower Motor Opening - Remove the blower motor. Refer to the applicable blower motor removal procedure in SI. - Clean any debris or foreign material from inside the HVAC module and on the evaporator core surface. - Apply the Cooling Coil Coating directly to the evaporator core through the blower motor opening. - Use the flexible wand to direct the Cooling Coil Coating over the entire evaporator core and surrounding gasket surfaces. - When the application is complete, install the blower motor.
Application Through a Hole in the HVAC Module - If neither of the two previous application methods are available, it may be necessary to drill a hole in the HVAC module. - Locate an area of the HVAC module between the blower motor and the evaporator core. Drill a 10 mm (3/8 in) hole in the HVAC module. Use caution to keep the drill clear of the evaporator core and the blower motor fan. - With the air distribution vents closed and the blower motor fan speed on HIGH, insert the applicator tool into the hole and spray the Cooling Coil Coating into the airstream toward the evaporator core. - Use a GM approved RTV sealant to plug the hole in the HVAC module.
9. After the Cooling Coil Coating application is complete, start and run the vehicle for approximately 10 minutes, with the compressor disabled, HVAC mode set to Recirculate/Max, heat set to full warm, blower motor fan speed on high, and one window open approximately 12 mm (1/2 in). This cures the Cooling Coil Coating onto the evaporator core surface. 10. While the engine is running, rinse the applicator tool with warm water to prolong the life of the tool. Be sure to spray warm water through the nozzle to rinse out any residual Cooling Coil Coating still in the capillary pick up tube, otherwise it will dry and clog the applicator tool. Also remove the small green valve from the bottle cap and rinse it thoroughly while rolling it between two fingers and then reinstall it. If this valve is clogged , the Cooling Coil Coating will not flow through the applicator tool. 11. Shut off the engine and enable the compressor again. 12. Verify proper HVAC system operation. 13. Remove the protective cover from inside the vehicle. 14. Remove the drain pan from underneath the vehicle. 15. Reinstall the cabin air filter if necessary.

Parts Information
Important
The Cooling Coil Coating listed below is the only GM approved product for use under warranty as an evaporator core disinfectant and for the long term control of evaporator core microbial growth.

 

The good thing is, per the 'How To', once you have the hole and the removable plug in place, opening it up for a fresh spray of cleaner is now a minimal task to perform. And the wait period as it cleans can be easily spent while changing the oil.

 

Drain? Sure.
But that's a generic drawing in their link.

This is an old thread, there is a better way to access and clean the coil, much more thoroughly, and improve the system overall for future use.

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/how-tos-diy-write-ups/480890-how-add-cabin-air-filters.html

In opening up the case for this ^ mod, I realized that with the design of the case and drain trough along with the coil placement, attempting to apply the foam thru the drain on the HD would yield little results, other than cleaning the drain area below the coil.

 

nice thread. will there be any updates on this? i will bookmark it for future reference. thanks for this.

 

Just that if you did this clean originally, inserting the nylon plug when complete, be sure to remove the nylon plug (covered hole with tape) when doing the cabin filter mod, as the filter will hang on the plug protruding into the case when you try to slide the filter up into place.

 

Gonna be doing this in a couple days, using the Kool-It product listed above. Also gonna be doing the filter kit retro fit.

Will post how it goes in here.

 

Got sum of the "kool it" on order, I got 3 vehicles to do. My truck should be the same as Hook'em_Horns information above, what about a 02 Tahoe?..should be similar....I hope.

Now the dumb question.....anybody know where to drill the hole on a 05 lesabre?? The lesabre has the horrible musty smell and the a/c doesn't work very well on the drivers side for some reason...hoping this will help.
Any info on the lesabre will be greatly appreciated! :::drink

 

^^^ Haha - this may be the place:

Buick LeSabre Forum

 

I looked for quite awhile already and all those threads come up empty handed. Maybe I'm still looking in the wrong places..haha

 

Well, I did the filter kit install & cleaned the evaporator while I had it open. I was kinda surprised at how clean the evaporator was, I thought it would be dirtier & all clogged up. Cleaned it good anyway, also sprayed some of the Kool-it stuff into the shroud where the A/C inlet is under the windshield wipers. It definetely helped with the musty smell that was happening on A/C startup, but I don't think it helped a whole bunch as far as keeping the A/C cool when sitting at idle in the hot sun.

I think I'm gonna have to start looking at how to improve airflow through the condenser now....

 

Bump because it is getting that time of year again

 

Thanks for the bump/ It reminds me I have the stuff to do this and install the cabin filter. I need to get this done. Link to th cabin filter thread a few posts up.