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Old 03-11-2012, 07:09 PM   eBay Motors  #1 (permalink)
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Question Brakes:::::HELP!



I recently blew out a rear brake line on my truck. i have had the amber ABS light on in my dash since i bought the truck. pedal always felt fine, brakes would sort of grind occasionally before. no i found the broken line, and replaced it with a new one. I cannot get the line to bleed. opened bleeder valve, and nothing. so next i removed it completely and cleaned it out, thinking maybe it was just clogged. still nothing, and only a small trickle out of the whole where the bleeder lives. i was just wondering if thier is something i am missing, or doing wrong that i cant get the lines to bleed and hold pressure. i still have some pedal (the truck is drivable) but it is much worse than i was before and my red brake light is on as if the fluid was low or e-brake was engaged. (fluid is full)

any help or advice anyone could offer on this topic would be greatly appreciated. thank in advance

Dave
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:09 PM   eBay Motors  #2 (permalink)
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Dumb question? Are you trying to bleed it by yourself or do you have someone pumping the pedal and holding it while you bleed the brakes?

If you're trying to bleed it by just opening the bleeder and "gravity bleed" it, you'll never get all the air out unless you use a vacume pump or something or use the two person bleed method
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:33 PM   eBay Motors  #3 (permalink)
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Dumb question? Are you trying to bleed it by yourself or do you have someone pumping the pedal and holding it while you bleed the brakes?

If you're trying to bleed it by just opening the bleeder and "gravity bleed" it, you'll never get all the air out unless you use a vacume pump or something or use the two person bleed method

I did indeed have someone helping me bleed them. legitimate question tho.....
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Last edited by Killahexhale; 03-11-2012 at 08:36 PM. Reason: confusing answer
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:58 PM   eBay Motors  #4 (permalink)
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OK, when you repaired the line was your brake fluid resevior ever completely empty? If it was, you may have to have someone with a scanner (independent shop or dealer) do a bleed sequence on the ABS valve if it got air in it. I know Ford will have this issue with a RABS valve (remote abs valve). I'm not 100% if GM has this option or not.

I would just keep bleeding the piss out of it and see if there's air left in there
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:02 PM   eBay Motors  #5 (permalink)
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The proportioning valve has an internal plunger that will slide back and forth. It will slide one way when you blow a line and then it will shut off the flow to that line. On the older trucks the plunger will some times get stuck to one side (because of rust internally) and is hard to get it back to center. Just keep working at it and it will free up. Some light taps with a hammer may help too. BTW the light in the dash comes on when the plunger slides to one side. Good Luck.
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51 dodge M37 383, NP435, NP200, D70 power-lok front D70 detroit rear 5.13 sitting on 44s
66 chevy 3/4 ton 4X4 350, SM420, T221, D44, HO72 4.56 sitting on 36s
72 chevelle 468 w/ cross ram, 5 speed, 12 bolt posi 4.10
87 chevy 1 ton 4X4, 350tbi, TH400, NP205 twinstick, D60 power-lok, 14 bolt detroit 4.10 sitting on 33s or 37s
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:09 PM   eBay Motors  #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetrodchev View Post
The proportioning valve has an internal plunger that will slide back and forth. It will slide one way when you blow a line and then it will shut off the flow to that line. On the older trucks the plunger will some times get stuck to one side (because of rust internally) and is hard to get it back to center. Just keep working at it and it will free up. Some light taps with a hammer may help too. BTW the light in the dash comes on when the plunger slides to one side. Good Luck.
Yup, forgot all about that too
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:28 AM   eBay Motors  #7 (permalink)
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This may be a stupid question however, being my first diesel im not sure how the brake system differs from my old buick. If I have the line disconnected from the abs module, with the truck running should I get fluid from the abs module when the brake is depressed? Not sure if this is another looming problem, or im just not used to dealing with diesels. I will try the hammer and valve option anyways, but I was just wondering if this could also be a potential culprit ......

Thanks again

Dave
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Diesel Noob....would love any help, suggestions, or ideas on how to care for and maintain the truck
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:38 AM   eBay Motors  #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetrodchev View Post
The proportioning valve has an internal plunger that will slide back and forth. It will slide one way when you blow a line and then it will shut off the flow to that line. On the older trucks the plunger will some times get stuck to one side (because of rust internally) and is hard to get it back to center. Just keep working at it and it will free up. Some light taps with a hammer may help too. BTW the light in the dash comes on when the plunger slides to one side. Good Luck.
Where would these be located? Are they on the wheel drum brake end or on the abs module/ master cylinder side? Don't wanna soend the day smacking the wrong thing

Thanks

Dave
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'98 ---6.5L---2500---Ext Cab---4x4---226,xxx---PMD relocation----------->First Diesel




Diesel Noob....would love any help, suggestions, or ideas on how to care for and maintain the truck
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:56 AM   eBay Motors  #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killahexhale View Post
Where would these be located? Are they on the wheel drum brake end or on the abs module/ master cylinder side? Don't wanna soend the day smacking the wrong thing

Thanks

Dave

I don't know the 88 to 98 trucks that well but it might be right under the brake master. If not it will be on the frame near there.
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2004.5 lly ec/sb 4x4, EFI live by rob, afe mp, mbrp 4", idler and pitman braces
46 chevy truck 355, TH400, 9 inch
51 dodge M37 383, NP435, NP200, D70 power-lok front D70 detroit rear 5.13 sitting on 44s
66 chevy 3/4 ton 4X4 350, SM420, T221, D44, HO72 4.56 sitting on 36s
72 chevelle 468 w/ cross ram, 5 speed, 12 bolt posi 4.10
87 chevy 1 ton 4X4, 350tbi, TH400, NP205 twinstick, D60 power-lok, 14 bolt detroit 4.10 sitting on 33s or 37s
http://www.atptrucks.com/ http://www.madjacksynthetics.com/
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Old 03-14-2012, 10:01 AM   eBay Motors  #10 (permalink)
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These are a bear to bleed if you don't have the tech II to cycle the ABS.

The way I did it was use a vacuum tank to suck fluid out to the bleeder- took about 1/2 hour with constant vacuum with something like this:
6 GALLONS OIL EXTRACTOR AIR TANK VACUUM DRAINAGE DRAIN | eBay

or this might work also:
Pneumatic Vacuum Brake Fluid Oil Bleeder Extractor Pump | eBay

Once fluid reaches the rear brakes and you can get enough peddle to take a safe test drive-go to a gravel surface and do a panic stop to get the ABS to cycle,then go back and rebleed.

PS: it helps to coat the bleeder threads with grease to prevent air being sucked in.

Last edited by racer55; 03-14-2012 at 10:04 AM.
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