I run Spring clamps and traction bars and blocks. LIke Durallymax posted. Follow that and you'll be good.
__________________ 2006 Crew Cab SB 4x4, Stock LBZ, Black with Gray leather, Factory Steps. Black H2's with 295/70/17 Nitto Terra Grapplers, Magnaflow 5" SS turbo back, Diamond Eye Downpipe, SCIV and 1058, SC Case Brace, 68mm Cheetah, EFI Live, Air Dog 150 II, Auto meter gauges and pod, EGR Blocker and FRPV shim kit, ATS dual CP3 kit, 60% Extrude hone injectors E-locker
2001 Ext Cab LB 2500hd Lb7. 5" exhaust, EFI Live w/dsp5, and special papa running boards.
Your Caps Lock Is On!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No Need To Yell
IT IS MINE AND I CAN WASH IT AS FAST AS I WANT TO!!!!!!!!
SO GO AWAY!
__________________ 2004 DMAX CREW CAB 4" EXHAUST K&N FILTER ONLY AND BANKS SIX GUN WITH PDA SITTING LEVEL ON 285 NITTO TERRA GRAPPLERS MAINLY A DRIVER SOME PULLING (TRAILER) BUT NOT MUCH
i pull regularly with mine and everything everybody is telling you is good stuff. drop the torsion all the way, get tie rod sleeves, block/clamp the rear springs, maybe get ladder bars, put the tranny in 4lo in 3rd with the tow/haul button on, start off kinda slow and roll onto the throttle untill you start to wind out 2nd gear, then let er have it so it shifts to third and keep it to the floor. when you stop moving, let off the throttle and pop it in neutral at the same time (or as close to the same time as you can). weights on the front will deff. help, but i dont run them because of regulations.
BTW, whats the deal with pushing the shifter foreward and up? are you talking about shifting to neutral or will it unlock the converter if you just push the shifter foreward? am i missing something?
__________________ 2006 Silverado DRW Crew Cab, LLY, 6 speed Allison, MBRP 4" TB to 6" stacks, TS MP-8, PPE lift pump, shim'd FPRV, aFe intake, Auto Meter EGT and boost gauge in pillar pod, plugged resonator, pcv re-rout, egr block off and fingerstick, edge evo (100hp, 220tq), backwoods traction bars, adjustable pulling hitch, Suncoast IV, Precision converter, amsoil 15w40, running cetane boost and fuel addative. dyno'd 8/8/09 on (old) slipping tranny- 454hp, 800tq
Last edited by 06_DRW_LLY : 07-01-2009 at 03:56 PM.
i pull regularly with mine and everything everybody is telling you is good stuff. drop the torsion all the way, get tie rod sleeves, block/clamp the rear springs, maybe get ladder bars, put the tranny in 4lo in 3rd with the tow/haul button on, start off kinda slow and roll onto the throttle untill you start to wind out 2nd gear, then let er have it so it shifts to third and keep it to the floor. when you stop moving, let off the throttle and pop it in neutral at the same time (or as close to the same time as you can). weights on the front will deff. help, but i dont run them because of regulations.
BTW, whats the deal with pushing the shifter foreward and up? are you talking about shifting to neutral or will it unlock the converter if you just push the shifter foreward? am i missing something?
throw the shifter foward while pushing up so it pops into neutral without hitting reverse! i believe thats what he meant!
__________________ James
TyreBoyz Pulling Team
Pulling Truck called Late Nights
Puller/DD=04 LLY Reg Cab 2500HD,EFILive'd,Built Tranny and a fe fuel upgrades!
Business Truck
06 LBZ 2500 CC SB SRW,EFILive'd and a Built Tranny
DD/Beat Around
03 5.3L 1500 EC SB,Hypertech,Upgraded Tranny,Exhaust and CAI
Economy Saver
02 VW Jetta TDI,Stock for now but looking at a Chip,Nozzles and CAI!
tricycles = teaching childern from a early age that front wheel drive sucks
exactly although to hit reverse you have to pull it back and up and the ally wont let you go into reverse under that much torque. stilla good precaution though
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