Well, I was planning on doing exactly this same mod since buying my truck. It will happen as soon as the weather breaks! And not just to have more screws and a smaller space to deal with, but because I have running boards that capture the wheel wells. The wheel wells cannot be removed without removing the front running board fasteners.
This is an excellent idea and he is to be commended. I work at GM and wish our engineers would frequent some of these web sites to get a better grasp of customer needs, requirements and plain old fashioned desires.
Exactly! Love the little things and good tools to make the job easier and better.
good job...I like it. I was wondering what the filter was??
__________________ 08 2500 LMM Z71 Hd with a Ready lift leveling kit,Banks monster exhaust,K and N filter,max energy programmer set at stage 3 a 91Hp tune,transgo,PPE shim kit, Jr 18-9 pro comp rims sitting on 325/60 r 18's Toyo A/t's,Westin Chrome nerf bars and Plasma Glow low beams and all emblems are gone except for the Z71 and Duramax on the hood,molding gone too.
Thanks a lot to JHendrick1 for this write up and Pics
Having factory installed mud flaps, and having to take off the passenger front wheel well liner every time to properly drain the water and/or replace the fuel filter, seemed a bit ridiculous. Therefore, I did the following:
1) Purchased a new replacement passenger front wheel well liner from the GMC dealer for about $39.00 US dollars.
2) Cut out a section of the old liner so as to not disturb the two positive notches (see photos) that would be my “on-location” points during reinstallation
3) Cut out a new section to over-lap my cutout, being sure not to disturb the natural location and function of the liner
4) I wanted multiple contact bolt points, so I chose some self-locking J-type cage nuts (see attachment)
5) I took the photos to illustrate that the panel can be removed while the truck is on the ground, in the natural driving position. I was in the process of draining the water from the fuel filter, after doing an oil change. I took my previous and current trucks (2000 Ford F250 SD V-10 gas – 255,000 miles – replaced by GMC 3500) and (2004 Ford F350 SD V-10 gas – 176,640 miles) to higher mileage by keeping up on filter replacements & oil changes
6) Had this been engineered at the GMC factory, it would have been a huge success.
7) ** IMPORTANT –
a. Take out the OEM liner (with cutout) and overlay & clamp the new access panel, so as to drill both together assuring an aligned fit
8) Next project is to engineer a change to keep the “!@#$%^&ing” extended cab split rear seats up while driving. Gravity allows them to come down on top of cargo behind the driver’s seat. My Ford Super Duty’s always locked, but on the GMC’s does not…Love the LMM Duramax + Allison, so I’ll deal with it…for now.
Hope this helps
This is such a great idea! Will try to plan and do this. Your wheel well appears to be metal. My '04 is plastic so might be easier for me to do but must figure a well constructed method of attaching the panel door that won't fail.
Thank you so much for this idea.
__________________ Susan
2004 2500 GMC Duramax LLY 4x4 crewcab shortbed with nerf bars, in-bed goose hitch, black linex liner and toolbox
I bought this last year, after changing my filter. This is the cat's butt! Great seller, easy to install, about an hour, with common hand tools. Just take your time with the removal of the inner fender and it is a sweet install. Great price with free shipping!
I bought this last year, after changing my filter. This is the cat's butt! Great seller, easy to install, about an hour, with common hand tools. Just take your time with the removal of the inner fender and it is a sweet install. Great price with free shipping!
I bought that e-bay door, it was a complete waste of money. It was only 1/4 the size of the door in these pix - tiny. Too small for me to get 1 hand through. It was made from the ribbed rubber material that is on a toolbox mat.
I will say the same seller had a very nice WIF wrench.
__________________ 2006 Chevy 2500HD LT CCSB 4X4 Duramax LBZ;
EFILive V2 Tuned by IdahoRob,
BANKS Ram Air Intake + Super Scoop,
BD Exhaust Manifold, EGR Blocker, 4" Turbo-back S/S Exhaust w/ Aero-Turbine 4040,
Transgo Jr., B&M Racing Deep Pan, Pure-Power Filter, SunCoast Deep Filter Lock,
Autometer Ultra-Lite II - EGT & Boost in overhead.
NCT/Bilstein Shocks, Firestone Ride-Rite Airbags, Open Country M/T, LINE-X, TruXedo Tonneau, Pro-Tech Toolbox,
Pioneer FH-P8000BT, i-pod, Focal 165KF Frt & Rear, JL Audio 300/4 Amp, Focal 27KX Subs, Audison Amp, Rattle-Trap Xtreme.
the first time I went to change my fuel filter on my LBZ..I looked around and it seemed everyone suggested to take the inner pass side liner out and get at it from the bottom. Being as I am a bit gimped in my right leg - bending over and working around my front tire was not an option.
My procedure:
I remove the curved air box tube: 2 clamps to undo to make it easier to access the filter from above.
I then loosen both of the bolts holding the filter head assy from the motor - this allows me to get a filter wrench around the filter after unplugging the WIF sensor.
I loosen the filter enough so that I can remove by my hands later. Then I take both of the loosened bolts out, (safely putting them in a place where I won't loose them and finally remove the filter from the filter head.
By taking the filter head assy off, I find it easier to remove the inner O-ring that typically gets stuck on the filter head. Once removed I reverse the procedure, put filter back on with WIF in place and prime the hand pump to refill the filter with fuel.
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Jr 18-9 pro comp rims sitting on 325/60 r 18's Toyo A/t's,Westin Chrome nerf bars and Plasma Glow low beams and all emblems are gone except for the Z71 and Duramax on the hood,molding gone too.
Fuel Filter Door 
Linear Mode
