Transmission Cooler Line Removal/Installation - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-25-2010, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Transmission Cooler Line Removal/Installation

Has anyone seen a writeup on removing and installing the transmission cooler lines? I searched and all I found was the SS braided conversion.

I managed to get 2 lines out somehow, but am being held up by the long one.

The Alldata procedure goes into depth on how to disconnect and reconnect, which I thought was pretty easy, but it doesn't say anything on how to actually remove them from the vehicle.

I know I could cut the line to get it out, but then I wouldn't know how to get the new line in.

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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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I got the lines out. I had to pull the skid plates off, and pull the air dam below the bumper off. I also had trouble getting the upper line out of the transmission, because the MBRP 4" exhaust was in the way. It still took a lot of weaseling but they finally came.

The hydraulic shop is crimping new rubber onto the long 2 lines, but the short one won't fit into their machine. So I guess I will be ordering that one from GM.

2006 Chev K2500HD CC LB LBZ
- MBRP 4", Transgo Jr, Bilstein 5100s, PSC PS Pump, Ignition Override w/ High Idle, DashDaq, Onboard Air & Bags, Bearclaw front Bumper, FASS 150

2005 Chev K3500 CC DRW LLY
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ZiGBlazer View Post
I got the lines out. I had to pull the skid plates off, and pull the air dam below the bumper off. I also had trouble getting the upper line out of the transmission, because the MBRP 4" exhaust was in the way. It still took a lot of weaseling but they finally came.

The hydraulic shop is crimping new rubber onto the long 2 lines, but the short one won't fit into their machine. So I guess I will be ordering that one from GM.
I have a write up as a sticky in the DIY section of the forum....it's really interesting to hear the problems that some of you guys go through... I had my lines out in about 45 minutes.....and the hydraulic shop recrimped ALL my lines for 70.00.....and I don't understand what they mean by the line is too short to fit in their machine....they are all the same thickness/etc.. When I had mine finished, you could unscrew them...put them in...and then screw them back together....whole project took me about 2 hours tops. Good luck! and you might want to look into another hydraulic shop??

Officially sold the truck But bought an H2 that is getting a Dmax
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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They are putting fittings in the middle like you said, however the short line is too short to do that. There isn't enough hose for them to put fittings into that short line.

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- MBRP 4", Transgo Jr, Bilstein 5100s, PSC PS Pump, Ignition Override w/ High Idle, DashDaq, Onboard Air & Bags, Bearclaw front Bumper, FASS 150

2005 Chev K3500 CC DRW LLY
Boss 9' V-Plow, 8' Dump Box
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-27-2010, 10:44 AM
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I dunno....all I can tell you is that all my hose was the same exact length on all my lines....and my local shop, which isn't anything close to being spectacular, got my lines re-crimped nicely. I'm sure you can buy lines from somewhere, but every place I called told me to get to a hydraulic press shop.

Officially sold the truck But bought an H2 that is getting a Dmax
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 12:51 PM
 
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Just a word of caustion. I replaced my transmission cooler lines and decided to replace the o-rings in the port fittings of the cooler. When re-installing the fittings, I broke one of the fittings off the cooler. BUMMER!
NO - I didn't apply too much pressure. Just tighten it is all. Should have used a backup on the fitting before trying to tighten.
Radiator shop tried to repair but wouldn't work without leaking. Dealer cost for new cooler - $177.23 Amazon - $84.00. part number 15102153- 2007 GMC 2500HD turbo 6.6.
Leaking Hoses are a pain in the (you know what) to replace. Hard to get out and hard to get back in. If I had it to do again, I'd try installing a hose cramp over the crimped fittings first and see if that would work for a quick fix.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by n0useforaname View Post
I have a write up as a sticky in the DIY section of the forum....it's really interesting to hear the problems that some of you guys go through... I had my lines out in about 45 minutes.....and the hydraulic shop recrimped ALL my lines for 70.00.....and I don't understand what they mean by the line is too short to fit in their machine....they are all the same thickness/etc.. When I had mine finished, you could unscrew them...put them in...and then screw them back together....whole project took me about 2 hours tops. Good luck! and you might want to look into another hydraulic shop??

so just getting them re-crimped is good enough?

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 01:27 PM
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I wouldn't really call it recrimped....they basically remove the rubber/crimped parts and replace them with new pieces....the only parts that stay the same are the long metal pieces. And yes....it's a 100% fix that won't leak again. If you replace the lines with OEM ones, you WILL leak again.

Officially sold the truck But bought an H2 that is getting a Dmax
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 02:09 PM
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I thought GM came out with new redesigned cooler lines that fixed the problem. Any truth to this or am I mistaken???...

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 02:16 PM
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I thought GM came out with new redesigned cooler lines that fixed the problem. Any truth to this or am I mistaken???...
there is a new part number.... I have the new ones, and have had no leaks... However.. I'm pretty sure others have had problems with the new ones.

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