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Old 11-17-2010, 03:48 PM   eBay Motors  #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Lowvoltage View Post
This is bad information and proves why people need to search the internet for proper information (testing procedures). Any standing voltage reading below 12.4 at the battery means the battery needs to be charged. This is not meant to start a argument , I have over thirty years of owning and running a starter/alternator rebuilding shop and this type of information above can waste a lot of money bad enough when it's yours even worst when it's someone else.
It's not a bad information. You may have years of experience but at that voltage it will still provide just enough to get it turning for a couple seconds. Not starting an argument but it still gets it done. 12.6 is a fully charged battery but under 12 volts is when it is considered dead.
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Old 11-17-2010, 04:57 PM   eBay Motors  #12 (permalink)
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It's not a bad information. You may have years of experience but at that voltage it will still provide just enough to get it turning for a couple seconds. Not starting an argument but it still gets it done. 12.6 is a fully charged battery but under 12 volts is when it is considered dead.
you are wrong.... volts are potential but capacity is stored in amphours. 8 aa batteries will have enough voltage to turn over starting motor but not nearly enough capacity to make motor turn over.... think of an air hose of 1/16" and 1/2", which will run your impact wrench at 100psi(probably both), and which will actually tighten a nut(only the 1/2")? if you dont believe the voltage drop test, try testing a nicad battery that doesnt run your tools---im pretty sure its the same theory used in battery testers, irregardless of what scale the needle is on...

to the op::: i replaced my batteries 2 weeks ago, one was at 400cca the other at 500cca---the truck would only turn over for a second or two and then groan. she only needed a 25amp helper from the charger to start....
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Old 11-19-2010, 03:48 PM   eBay Motors  #13 (permalink)
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you are wrong.... volts are potential but capacity is stored in amphours. 8 aa batteries will have enough voltage to turn over starting motor but not nearly enough capacity to make motor turn over.... think of an air hose of 1/16" and 1/2", which will run your impact wrench at 100psi(probably both), and which will actually tighten a nut(only the 1/2")? if you dont believe the voltage drop test, try testing a nicad battery that doesnt run your tools---im pretty sure its the same theory used in battery testers, irregardless of what scale the needle is on...

to the op::: i replaced my batteries 2 weeks ago, one was at 400cca the other at 500cca---the truck would only turn over for a second or two and then groan. she only needed a 25amp helper from the charger to start....
That's because you are talking about a different set of battery, I'm speaking of the same battery but at a bit lower voltage. I have done the drop test many times. I know how it works. You were talking about a completely different subject. End of story. no more argument.
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Old 11-19-2010, 04:44 PM   eBay Motors  #14 (permalink)
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Your right about amperage being the power but you got off track I think. I am talking about doing a voltage drop test, before you test the system you need to start off with a charged battery that's the 12.6 volts. The first part of the test is to have a volt meter across the battery then try to crank the engine over,if the volts drop below 9.5 volts the battery fails. The load/draw (amperage) that your apply to the battery is from the starter. If your thinking you can test a starting system with a amp gauge,the only thing it will tell you is the amp draw for the whole system. With a volt meter you can pin point the problem, as in bad battery-connection-cables-or starter.
did you disconnect the 2nd battery when you did this test? no i don't mean an amp gauge. load testing the batteries is basically the volt drop test i guess. i'm not talking about load testing them w/ the starter though, i'm talking about using a load tester to test the battery. but you can't load test w/ both batteries connected. you gotta disconnect one of em. i just don't agree w/ testing the voltage w/ a meter. volts can be misleading
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Old 11-19-2010, 05:37 PM   eBay Motors  #15 (permalink)
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That's because you are talking about a different set of battery, I'm speaking of the same battery but at a bit lower voltage. I have done the drop test many times. I know how it works. You were talking about a completely different subject. End of story. no more argument.
the truck only know voltage and current---12v is 12v no matter the capacity or type of the source... it doesnt know of the source, otherwise it wouldnt start using a booster pack.... you cannot tell the status of a battery by the voltage, as long as some voltage(and it can vary by quite a bit, 11-14 volts) is present the only thing that matters when starting a truck is capacity--- that is current...

you obviously dont know how it works... end of story, no more arguement...
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Old 11-19-2010, 06:44 PM   eBay Motors  #16 (permalink)
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Went out this morning to run errands and my truck wouldn't start. All I heard was a single click, and then nothing. Tested both batteries and they both show 12 volts. It sure seems like the starter is the issue with the way it is behaving. Anyone know how to change out the starter on a 2007 Duramax?

Thanks in advance for the help!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridin'GMC View Post
It's not a bad information. You may have years of experience but at that voltage it will still provide just enough to get it turning for a couple seconds. Not starting an argument but it still gets it done. 12.6 is a fully charged battery but under 12 volts is when it is considered dead.

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Originally Posted by 01 lb7 View Post
did you disconnect the 2nd battery when you did this test? no i don't mean an amp gauge. load testing the batteries is basically the volt drop test i guess. i'm not talking about load testing them w/ the starter though, i'm talking about using a load tester to test the battery. but you can't load test w/ both batteries connected. you gotta disconnect one of em. i just don't agree w/ testing the voltage w/ a meter. volts can be misleading

01 lb7
What I think the OP was saying was because he herd a click and saw 12 volts at the batteries it had to be the starter. What I was trying to tell him is a quick and easy way to pin point the problem. That 12 volts at the battery is basically dead and not to be trusted. ( would you run your engine with 25% of it's oil capacity it holds) Most people do not realize how much damage can be done by cranking a stater over with low voltage going to it. It can destroy the started quicker than you may think. You are right the best way to check a battery would be to pull them out,charge them over night,then load test them. I do have a battery load tester at home but I would think most people don't. Going to the auto parts store is NOT the best way to go. Most of these places forget or do not know that the battery needs to be charged before testing. I am not blaming the employees,but the less they know the more they sell. You can go out a buy a inexpensive digital volt meter for under ten dollars that works great and test your own system. You want to use a digital meter over a analog (has a needle pointer ) it's usually more accurate.You wrote "load testing the batteries is basically the volt drop test i guess." No it's not the same thing. Load testing the battery deals just with the battery,when you do a system voltage drop test you can check all of the components.(battery-starter-cables-connections) You can tell how much is being lost and where.

Here is one way to do a voltage drop test. Hope it's OK to post.


State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage
12V
100% 1.265 12.7
*75% 1.225 12.4
50% 1.190 12.2
25% 1.155 12.0
Discharged 1.120 11.9
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:04 PM   eBay Motors  #17 (permalink)
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the truck only know voltage and current---12v is 12v no matter the capacity or type of the source... it doesnt know of the source, otherwise it wouldnt start using a booster pack.... you cannot tell the status of a battery by the voltage, as long as some voltage(and it can vary by quite a bit, 11-14 volts) is present the only thing that matters when starting a truck is capacity--- that is current...

you obviously dont know how it works... end of story, no more arguement...

Not true,I can get two 6 volt batteries with more than enough capacity (cranking amps) but its not going to crank over you engine if the volts aren't there. Volts do matter. I would hope this is not a argument but a chance to help each other learn. This site has taught me more than I can say it also help me buy my first diesel. 07 LBZ CC DRW .
Thanks to all that post.
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:05 PM   eBay Motors  #18 (permalink)
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wow alot of argument over something simple.....disconnect both batteries give them a good 12 hour low amo charge, load test them with a good carbon pile load tester it will have a gauge on it that shows amps and volts and say good and bad, if they are bad replace them, that simple
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:11 PM   eBay Motors  #19 (permalink)
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Not true,I can get two 6 volt batteries with more than enough capacity (cranking amps) but its not going to crank over you engine if the volts aren't there. Volts do matter. I would hope this is not a argument but a chance to help each other learn. This site has taught me more than I can say it also help me buy my first diesel. 07 LBZ CC DRW .
Thanks to all that post.
indiviually the 6v batteries wont start the truck, but in series they will make a good try...

thats why i said if you have between 11-14v the voltage doesnt matter provided you have the amperage...
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