Replace Balljoints, OR replace entire control arms??

MDVZ06 · 11-09-2012, 04:49 PM

I've got a 2004 3500 with the 8.1 in it. The front tires have been wearing very strange, so I took it to have the tires rotated & to check the suspension. Turns out that both outter tie rod ends and all 4 balljoints (press in) are bad. The shop quoted me $500.00 labor with me providing the parts. But it seems to me that I can get upper replacement control arms with new MOOG balljoints (and new bushings) for around $80.00 (each) shipped. I can't seem to be able to find the replacement lowers, only uppers. Can somebody point me in the right direction, as this seems to be a much better, cost effective way to go. (and replacing the tie rod ends is not too difficult). It appears that this would be the cheapest way to go, but is this the BEST way?? $500.00 labor to do this seems a bit steep.......(and he originally quoted me $650.00 and then 'knocked it down' to $500.00)

Anybody care to give an opinion as to which way to go?? Thanks!!

roughneck dmax · 11-09-2012, 05:13 PM

I got all my front end redone with moog parts from my local auto parts store (oreilly's). Made it much easier for warranty

MDVZ06 · 11-09-2012, 05:17 PM

Getting the Moog replacement parts isn't the problem. The problem is that my truck has 'press in' balljoints; not something that you're going to do at home unless you have the proper tool to do this and I don't. If these aren't pressed in correctly, you're just asking for trouble.

klkgmc2500hd · 11-09-2012, 05:47 PM

Subscribed

MDVZ06 · 11-09-2012, 05:49 PM

I'm also looking into getting a balljoint press and doing this myself. $500.00 + parts just seems super high.

MDVZ06 · 11-09-2012, 06:59 PM

After researching all the threads on this topic, I think that I'm going to replace the upper control arms, buy or rent a press tool, replace the lower balljoints and replace the tie rod ends. Should be able to do this myself. It'll take some time, but I'll be able to save some money. After reading about how the uppers should probably be tack welded if replaced using the factory control arm, I think the way to go on the uppers is to just replace the arm on both sides.

**i_keyser** · 11-09-2012, 07:46 PM

Definitely get an alignment after you are done.

Sent from my fone

MDVZ06 · 11-09-2012, 07:50 PM

Yes, absolutely. It's already pulling slightly to the right and from what the alignment shop tells me, it's never been done since new, so after the parts have been replaced, it'll be on to the alignment shop. Thanks!!

**ty_LBZ** · 11-09-2012, 07:53 PM

Not sure about the 8.1 models, but my DMAX has all press in balljoints. Soak em with some penetrating lube a week before, and rent a balljoint press from your local auto parts store, and decent size hammer and your set

MDVZ06 · 11-09-2012, 07:56 PM

Yes, press in units on the 8.1's as well. Excellent suggestion about the penetrating lube. Appreciate that!

And I guess I should freeze the ball joints overnight before installing??

11-09-2012, 04:49 PM	eBay Motors #1 (permalink)
MDVZ06 DuramaxForum n00b Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Springfield, GA Posts: 13	Replace Balljoints, OR replace entire control arms?? I've got a 2004 3500 with the 8.1 in it. The front tires have been wearing very strange, so I took it to have the tires rotated & to check the suspension. Turns out that both outter tie rod ends and all 4 balljoints (press in) are bad. The shop quoted me $500.00 labor with me providing the parts. But it seems to me that I can get upper replacement control arms with new MOOG balljoints (and new bushings) for around $80.00 (each) shipped. I can't seem to be able to find the replacement lowers, only uppers. Can somebody point me in the right direction, as this seems to be a much better, cost effective way to go. (and replacing the tie rod ends is not too difficult). It appears that this would be the cheapest way to go, but is this the BEST way?? $500.00 labor to do this seems a bit steep.......(and he originally quoted me $650.00 and then 'knocked it down' to $500.00) Anybody care to give an opinion as to which way to go?? Thanks!!

11-09-2012, 05:13 PM	eBay Motors #2 (permalink)
roughneck dmax Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: WEST TEXAS Posts: 87	I got all my front end redone with moog parts from my local auto parts store (oreilly's). Made it much easier for warranty __________________ 05 Silverado DMAX. 75 horse injectors. 4" turbo back exhaust to a 10" tip. Homemade intake to tractor air filter. Edge juiced w/ attitude CS Skyjacker 6" lift, and 34" nitro trail grapplers on 20's PVC Reroute. Resonator plugged. Shimmed FPRV. Ported fuel rail fitting. Transgo HD racing shift kit and TQ . Modded the cp3. 7" touch screen. 2x12 subs. 1000 watt punch amp. (All done under a nice shady tree)

11-09-2012, 05:47 PM	eBay Motors #4 (permalink)
klkgmc2500hd Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Indiana Posts: 130	Subscribed __________________ 2005 LLY GMC 2500 ecsb 4x4 FPE billet S363/73 turbo HX 40 downpipe Grade c head gaskets w ARP studs All Season EGR delete Y bridge. ASD intercooler pipes PCV re-route. LBZ mp. Nicktane Cat filter adapter S&B dry filter cai. 5" MBRP dp back exhaust Pillar gauges and Edge CTS. EFI Live by Kory Willis, thanks to Willie at Synthetic Motorsports. Stock trans for now.

11-09-2012, 07:46 PM	eBay Motors #7 (permalink)
i_keyser DF Sponsors Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Aurora, CO Posts: 2,661	Definitely get an alignment after you are done. Sent from my fone __________________ Ian 2001 ccsb LB7. built trans . billet S366 . tuned by Kory Willis

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11-09-2012, 05:17 PM	eBay Motors #3 (permalink)
MDVZ06 DuramaxForum n00b Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Springfield, GA Posts: 13	Getting the Moog replacement parts isn't the problem. The problem is that my truck has 'press in' balljoints; not something that you're going to do at home unless you have the proper tool to do this and I don't. If these aren't pressed in correctly, you're just asking for trouble.

11-09-2012, 05:49 PM	eBay Motors #5 (permalink)
MDVZ06 DuramaxForum n00b Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Springfield, GA Posts: 13	I'm also looking into getting a balljoint press and doing this myself. $500.00 + parts just seems super high.

11-09-2012, 06:59 PM	eBay Motors #6 (permalink)
MDVZ06 DuramaxForum n00b Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Springfield, GA Posts: 13	After researching all the threads on this topic, I think that I'm going to replace the upper control arms, buy or rent a press tool, replace the lower balljoints and replace the tie rod ends. Should be able to do this myself. It'll take some time, but I'll be able to save some money. After reading about how the uppers should probably be tack welded if replaced using the factory control arm, I think the way to go on the uppers is to just replace the arm on both sides.

11-09-2012, 07:50 PM	eBay Motors #8 (permalink)
MDVZ06 DuramaxForum n00b Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Springfield, GA Posts: 13	Yes, absolutely. It's already pulling slightly to the right and from what the alignment shop tells me, it's never been done since new, so after the parts have been replaced, it'll be on to the alignment shop. Thanks!!

11-09-2012, 07:56 PM	eBay Motors #10 (permalink)
MDVZ06 DuramaxForum n00b Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Springfield, GA Posts: 13	Yes, press in units on the 8.1's as well. Excellent suggestion about the penetrating lube. Appreciate that! And I guess I should freeze the ball joints overnight before installing??

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