spongy brakes after bleeding

[slafferty2]

Everytime I bleed my brakes they go spongy in a week or so. Already flushed system what should I replace next

[duratothemax]

The problem is you still have air in the ABS module that cant be removed with a normal bleed procedure. You have the ABS module bled properly. You need a Tech 2 to do the "automated bleed".

[92 TY 1173]

This can only be done with a Tech 2 unit? I just replaced my rear line and can't get the pedal to stiffin up. The pedal is very soft and is slow to return.

[Heartbeat Hauler]

If it's any consolation, and it probably ain't, my brake pedal has been spongy for 11 years.

I have tried the tech tips, making sure that the pads are not binding (opening up the U-shaped areas to insure they slide, and that the pins are not corroded and greased. I have had the system flushed at the dealership and specifically asked to have the ABS bled with the Tech II, no luck. However, I can't prove that they actually did that...

And, I have had the ABS unit replaced, it was throwing a code and was bad. Then while trying to remove the unit from the valve the valve unit broke so it too was replaced. ($2200 )

I haven't replaced my rubber lines with SS hard lines, as there are pros cons to this course of action, and I haven't replaced the master cylinder.

If you figure it out, let me know!

[duratothemax]

Originally Posted by Heartbeat Hauler

If it's any consolation, and it probably ain't, my brake pedal has been spongy for 11 years.

I have tried the tech tips, making sure that the pads are not binding (opening up the U-shaped areas to insure they slide, and that the pins are not corroded and greased. I have had the system flushed at the dealership and specifically asked to have the ABS bled with the Tech II, no luck. However, I can't prove that they actually did that...

And, I have had the ABS unit replaced, it was throwing a code and was bad. Then while trying to remove the unit from the valve the valve unit broke so it too was replaced. ($2200 )

I haven't replaced my rubber lines with SS hard lines, as there are pros cons to this course of action, and I haven't replaced the master cylinder.

If you figure it out, let me know!

how the hell did you pay $2200 for an ABS module? You can get them for like $100-150 used on ebay/junkyard, and about $500 retail price new from the dealer. Someone took you for a serious ride if you really did pay $2200 for a new ABS module.

[ieetgluu]

Originally Posted by Heartbeat Hauler

If it's any consolation, and it probably ain't, my brake pedal has been spongy for 11 years.

I have tried the tech tips, making sure that the pads are not binding (opening up the U-shaped areas to insure they slide, and that the pins are not corroded and greased. I have had the system flushed at the dealership and specifically asked to have the ABS bled with the Tech II, no luck. However, I can't prove that they actually did that...

And, I have had the ABS unit replaced, it was throwing a code and was bad. Then while trying to remove the unit from the valve the valve unit broke so it too was replaced. ($2200 )

I haven't replaced my rubber lines with SS hard lines, as there are pros cons to this course of action, and I haven't replaced the master cylinder.

If you figure it out, let me know!

What are the cons of SS lines?
And rubber lines wouldnt be replaced with hard lines. I think you have that confused with SS braided lines.
SS hard lines are what you replace the crappy, rusty, rotten, unsafe factory hard lines with(if you live in the rust belt atleast).

[Heartbeat Hauler]

Originally Posted by duratothemax

how the hell did you pay $2200 for an ABS module? You can get them for like $100-150 used on ebay/junkyard, and about $500 retail price new from the dealer. Someone took you for a serious ride if you really did pay $2200 for a new ABS module.

Yeah! Tell me about it. I nearly had a heart attack! But that's what it costs at the dealer for the module, valve and install.

2 dealers both within a 100 bucks of each other, one in WV one in Indiana.

[Heartbeat Hauler]

Originally Posted by ieetgluu

What are the cons of SS lines?
And rubber lines wouldnt be replaced with hard lines. I think you have that confused with SS braided lines.
SS hard lines are what you replace the crappy, rusty, rotten, unsafe factory hard lines with(if you live in the rust belt atleast).

The braided SS lines is what I meant for the stock rubber. Supposedly the rubber becomes weak and can bulge giving the spongy brake pedal. Replacing them with SS braided lines eliminates this bulging.

I can't remember exactly what the down side was, I think it's about the actual tubing inside the braided lines...like it's teflon and it cracks or something like that.

Of course that's how it goes, one guy gets them and they are great another guy swears they are made by the devil himsef. That's why I said if someone gets it figured out I'd like to know. My wife's 04 Suburban 2500 has really good brakes with a firm pedal. I figure I've got essentially the same brakes so something is up with mine.

Last I heard the Russell kits were the way to go, seems like it would be a lot of work to replace all the corners and still have the same issue. I also think the kit has 4 lines and there is a 5th one that feeds the two rear...I dunno, it was years ago I was lookin' at this stuff.

[Bonomax]

i had the same problem then found out the power steering fluid and brake fluid both use the brake booster so I flushed the power steering fluid and it was pretty dirty and water like. there is diy on here how to flush its pretty easy and doesn't take much fluid so its pretty cheap too. my brakes are pretty good now. never knew about the ABS needs flush thing but my abs works fine even in heavy snow. prolly wouldn't hurt to do that tho. will a efi live V2 do that auto abs bleed?

[lb7dirtyM]

I've seen rear calipers installed on the wrong sides upside down(Bleeders facing down) and the brakes will work but will be spongy as the system can't bleed properly.