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Old 12-01-2012, 07:12 PM   eBay Motors  #11 (permalink)
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From jc's post:

2005 Chevrolet Silverado Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Orange
Radio Ignition Switched 12V+ Wire: Class 2 Serial Data
Radio Ground Wire: Black/White
Radio Illumination Dimmer Wire: N/A
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Radio Amplifier Trigger Wire: Pink

Constant power should be used for memory and perhaps main power, as the switched power is a serial data line used to tell the unit when to turn on and off. It should work like the data-2-data connection on a remote start bypass module; 1 wire, many different digital signals to communicate with the bcm and do several things, but not a main power type of line, as it is a very thin wire.
And if Im correct about how this particular data wire works with the bose, then I should call a dealership to see if a reflash is possible to correct the issue, as it seems the unit perhaps isnt being 'told' to fully turn off.
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Last edited by ieetgluu; 12-01-2012 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:34 AM   eBay Motors  #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ieetgluu View Post
And if Im correct about how this particular data wire works with the bose, then I should call a dealership to see if a reflash is possible to correct the issue, as it seems the unit perhaps isnt being 'told' to fully turn off.

I've had an issue occasionally with my head unit as well but I believe the problem is with the ignition key cylinder because it will sometimes not shut off even when the key is out and the doors are opened. If I stick the key back in, turn the ignition on then off again and open the doors, the radio turns off like normal. You may want to look into this as well.

My ignition switch was also replaced:
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/...ad.php?t=17072
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:27 AM   eBay Motors  #13 (permalink)
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Ive never seen the radio not turn off, atleast in the 1+ month Ive owned it. As soon as the door is opened it shuts off. We both agree the 2A draw cant be normal. Hopefully I can have some free time soon to properly test the draw without disconnecting both batteries to confirm that draw is still there without any 'recharging' on the ecm or radio or whatever it is
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:40 PM   eBay Motors  #14 (permalink)
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So I got chance to retest today the correct way. Initial draw was .23 on a 10A scale. I pulled a few fuses to look for a change from that. The IPC/DIC fuse pulled made it drop to .02A. Some of the fuses once put back in, would soon make the draw spike up to roughly 1.8A then it would drop back down after about 10-15 seconds. This must be the 'recharge'. So Ive replaced both batteries and we'll see from there.
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Old 12-05-2012, 03:34 AM   eBay Motors  #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ieetgluu View Post
So I got chance to retest today the correct way. Initial draw was .23 on a 10A scale. I pulled a few fuses to look for a change from that. The IPC/DIC fuse pulled made it drop to .02A. Some of the fuses once put back in, would soon make the draw spike up to roughly 1.8A then it would drop back down after about 10-15 seconds. This must be the 'recharge'. So Ive replaced both batteries and we'll see from there.

That recharge people are talking about I believe has to do with the BCM in active mode vs sleep mode.
After about 20 seconds with all doors closed and key off, the BCM return to it's standby state.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:44 AM   eBay Motors  #16 (permalink)
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It must be what I was seeing before. I had originaly unhooked both batteries, then I would probe EACH TIME I pulled another fuse. Thus reconnecting power each time, and making the draw spike.
Even still, .23A still seems a bit high. I recall a youtube repair video guy saying you wanna shoot for 50mA. Most higher amounts are too much draw. Not sure why the IPC?/DIC is the main source of draw now.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:06 AM   eBay Motors  #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ieetgluu View Post
It must be what I was seeing before. I had originaly unhooked both batteries, then I would probe EACH TIME I pulled another fuse. Thus reconnecting power each time, and making the draw spike.

Even still, .23A still seems a bit high. I recall a youtube repair video guy saying you wanna shoot for 50mA. Most higher amounts are too much draw. Not sure why the IPC?/DIC is the main source of draw now.

Not sure why the IPC/DIC is high but you can see that mine showed high as well.

What did you have for drain on your CIG/LTR?

Would be nice to get this solved finally.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:55 PM   eBay Motors  #18 (permalink)
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Not sure. Is that an underhood fuse? I didnt check inside fuses. But at .02A left after the DIC fuse is pulled, I dont have any scale left to test with my multimeter.
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