Can I add a amp / sub to factory Bose? - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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Can I add a amp / sub to factory Bose?

I have a 06 with factory Bose. How hard would it be to add a amp / sub to it? Do I need some kind of signal converter box?

06 CCSB LBZ 4x4 LT3; torsion key lift (leveled); 265/75-16 Pro Comp A/T on OEM wheels (winter), BFGoodrich Rugged Terrain 275/70-18 on XD Diesel 18x9 (summer); MBRP 4" turbo back with Corsa muffler; EGR blocked; Edge Insight CTS gauges; EFI Live DSP2 by Idaho Rob - 80HP DD and 40HP tow with turbo brake (love it!); Rancho 9000XL shocks; updated rear cab mounts; Transgo Jr.; Merchant Automotive tie rod sleeves; everything synthetic; Access Tonneau hiding Line-X; tinted windows 5% all around; Tekonsha P3 brake controller; HIR bulbs, more to come soon......
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 04:38 AM
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would not be hard but like i said in the other thread i would say get a aftermarket radio even with a amp and sup on the stock head unit it does not sound clean
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 04:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FREIGHTTRAIN View Post
would not be hard but like i said in the other thread i would say get a aftermarket radio even with a amp and sup on the stock head unit it does not sound clean
No interest in an aftermarket stereo. If you actually read the post I made, you'll see I want to add a sub/amp to the factory stereo.

06 CCSB LBZ 4x4 LT3; torsion key lift (leveled); 265/75-16 Pro Comp A/T on OEM wheels (winter), BFGoodrich Rugged Terrain 275/70-18 on XD Diesel 18x9 (summer); MBRP 4" turbo back with Corsa muffler; EGR blocked; Edge Insight CTS gauges; EFI Live DSP2 by Idaho Rob - 80HP DD and 40HP tow with turbo brake (love it!); Rancho 9000XL shocks; updated rear cab mounts; Transgo Jr.; Merchant Automotive tie rod sleeves; everything synthetic; Access Tonneau hiding Line-X; tinted windows 5% all around; Tekonsha P3 brake controller; HIR bulbs, more to come soon......
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 04:45 AM
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ok and i said yes you can just take out the stock sub and than work with it than by getting black box i dont remember the real name we just call it that
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 05:07 AM
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You either need a High low converter or just buy an amp with the high level inputs. I have a amp and 2-10s hooked up to the factory Am/Fm radio in my Lmm. It sounds good. I also had to add a couple tweeters to calm the bass down. You having a bose system you should still be able to hear it clear and add some extra kick.



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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 05:15 AM
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Take a peek in the search, lots of info weve went through this a few times lately


LMM Twinz N sum shyt ATP Tuned

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-05-2010, 11:51 PM
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Yup I did it to my truck!

You need a RCA converter where you attatch it to your speakers to grab signal. I spliced into my rear speakers then ran wire to the rear were I had my amp so I only need 1ft long RCA's. Then run the amp and wires like normal. I got 2 box's with 4 10's total. It slams :rockin

This is like the converter you need. I think best buy sells them

CAR STEREO HIGH LEVEL TO RCA LINE CONVERTER HIGH LOW - eBay (item 320382693171 end time Mar-08-10 00:14:34 PST)

Jason
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Performance: EFI Live Tuned by Blackout Performance, Custom Blackout Performance S475 over stock twins, 45 over stock injectors, MBRP Turbo Back Stainless Exhaust (Straight piped), Raptor Lift Pump, AFE Filter, GMAX6 kit with Suncoast 1057 converter installed by Blackout Performance
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 12:00 AM
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Do you splice this converter in before or after the factory amp?

Not ment to de-rail here, but it was said to take out the factory sub?How do you go abouts doing this and what are the actual benefits?

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 12:06 AM
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the factory sub in under the cup holders in the center console and it dosent matter if ir is before or after i dont think
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boreen View Post
Do you splice this converter in before or after the factory amp?

Not ment to de-rail here, but it was said to take out the factory sub?How do you go abouts doing this and what are the actual benefits?
I did it after the factory sub on mine. You cant tell at all and it sounds great! :rockin

Jason
2006 Silverado 2500HD LBZ CC SB
Exterior: Escalade Handles, Front windows tinted to match the rear, painted bumpers & mirrors, billet grille, 305/50/20 Cooper Zeons on BMF Novakanes Death Metal, Cognito Braces, Stainless Sleeves, Train Horns
Interior: 4 Kicker 10in Subs in 2 custom box's, Autometer Ultra lite II Pyro and Boost gauges, Aeroforce Interceptor Gauge, LED Lows & Fogs, Painted accents
Performance: EFI Live Tuned by Blackout Performance, Custom Blackout Performance S475 over stock twins, 45 over stock injectors, MBRP Turbo Back Stainless Exhaust (Straight piped), Raptor Lift Pump, AFE Filter, GMAX6 kit with Suncoast 1057 converter installed by Blackout Performance
1999 Ford F-550 PowerStroke ''Wrecker'' **Jerrdan bed, S&B Intake
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