Looking to install my pryo probe. I was wondering if it would be easier to take the manifold off to drill and tap the new hole or would running it and leaving the manifold installed would be an easier bet? Just seeing what you guys did... Or if anyone has taken the passinger manifold off, also was it a pain in the arss to get it off?
__________________ JUSTIN-21
IN IT TO WIN IT
2003 2500HD ECSB DMAX
No badges, no moldings, strait as an arrow.
AFE II, QS2, 4" TB Silverline, AD100, 285 ATR's
Autometer Cobalts, 20% Front to Back!
Ordered 03/11... 20" Rockstars, 33-12.50 Toyo MT's, let the fender hacking begin
Not worth it to take off in my opinion, it kind of a pain. Just leave the truck running when you drill it and everything will blow out. Make sure to wear glasses though so no shavings get in your eyes.
If you dont remove it you risk getting metal shaving through the turbo which isn't good...iv never removed mine on my d-max soo idk how hard it is I just drilled the exhaust right after the turbo there is very little difference in the readout ima get a BD manifold soon thats pre tapped ne way as soon as I get my boat sold.
__________________ 2" x 3" Pic Diesel World Mag. March 2010 Pg.120
08" CHEVY 2500HD CCSB LTZ--Custom Burnt Orange Paint
37" toyo's on Diamo 20's--AMP Steps
9" Fabtech Lift--HDTie Rods
5" MBRP Turbo Back--MBRP Downpipe
EFIlive by IdahoRob--DSP 5
Banks Intake
PPE Lift Pump--Rail Shim--Ported Rail Fitting
VERY soon:
the pane, the tranny, the turbo, the linked front
If you dont remove it you risk getting metal shaving through the turbo which isn't good...iv never removed mine on my d-max soo idk how hard it is I just drilled the exhaust right after the turbo there is very little difference in the readout ima get a BD manifold soon thats pre tapped ne way as soon as I get my boat sold.
I had probes both pre and post turbo on my 04 and the temps were sometimes as much as 350* different and that was stock!!
__________________ 2008 GMC Sierra Crew Cab 4X4
2004 CC/SB 4X4 Duramax (sold)
Last edited by usafracer : 06-18-2009 at 11:12 AM.
DO NOT PUT A PROBE AFTER THE TURBO.... you can be as much as 800-1000 degrees off... the probe needs to be as close to the cylinder head as possible to get the best read out.... post turbo is a bad bad bad idea... just because its easier doesnt mean its better
I had a mechanic at one of the shops i used to work for back in the day who always put them post-turbo and4 trucks came back with issue because they pushed their trucks and thought they were in the clear.... one of them was reading 1200 degrees and judging by the damage he was well over 2000 degress... very bad idea
Last edited by DunesRunner08 : 06-18-2009 at 11:11 AM.
IDK it was my buddies idea he said pre/post turbo is not that diff. but he has only been cerified on big engines not that much experience wih truck diesels
__________________ 2" x 3" Pic Diesel World Mag. March 2010 Pg.120
08" CHEVY 2500HD CCSB LTZ--Custom Burnt Orange Paint
37" toyo's on Diamo 20's--AMP Steps
9" Fabtech Lift--HDTie Rods
5" MBRP Turbo Back--MBRP Downpipe
EFIlive by IdahoRob--DSP 5
Banks Intake
PPE Lift Pump--Rail Shim--Ported Rail Fitting
VERY soon:
the pane, the tranny, the turbo, the linked front
I just put in my pyro gauge last weekend. I drilled into the passenger side manifold without the truck running. I drilled two pilot holes before I used the main bit and I collected the shavings out with a magnet (A magnet I bought from Napa that resembles a car antenna that you will eventually be able to stick into the hole and collect all shavings.) after I drilled and also after I tapped. Zero problems.
__________________ 2001 Chevrolet 3500 Duramax Diesel Crew Cab 2WD
FloMaster Exhaust
Banks Ram Air Intake
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