As you may know (via 911 forum) i had battery trouble on my sierra. I replaced and installed 2th batteries and found that the old battery on the drivers side had a pretty significant acid leak. The leak wore into the old batteries bolt for the positive terminal and I had to have it replaced. (no big deal right) So i go to the auto store and they have 2 sizes, one is cleary too small and the one i bought (specified for diesels) was too long. I come up with an idea to get some washers to kinda fill in some space on the bolt. I Install the battery and all is well.
Today I come out to a dead truck . I knew it must have been a connection to the battery on that side. I pop the hood and keep the keys in the ignition while i messd with the positive terminal cable. In cases it was making contact, (open doors beep) etc. Other cases it was giving no love whatsoever. In Fears of over tightening I added another washer on the topside of the terminal and adjusted it to get to fire up.
Now here is my thoughts, I did find a pretty significant amount of battery acid removing the old batteries. Is Their any way that the positive terminal wire could be affeceted by the acid leak. The reason I ask is because it does seem to give contact in certain areas (ie, if i jingle around with it on the terminal it will light up the dash etc) Or since i barely hand tightened them in the first place, do you think this was more caused by driving and the bolts coming loose?
Last edited by bajafishing : 07-01-2008 at 08:12 PM.
One down fall of GM products are the side mount batteries. I have had numerous problems with them. I have found it is just as easy to replace them with top mount cables when you do a battery change. If your new battries are not universal then you could always buy a 5/16 bolt and cut it down in order to get the proper clearance.One thing with them is you have to make sure the cables are tight and have no green or white build up on them. If they do you can clean them with regular old soda pop. The cabonation neutralizes the acid and cleans the corrosion off.
__________________ 06 2500 CREW CAB 4X4 LBZ
4" DIAMOND EYE EXHAUST, KITTY RAN OFF!!!
DIABLO @ 120HP. 285/75 BFG's RUNNIN ON ULTRA 16's
PIONEER HEAD UNIT RUNNIN SCOSCHE AMP W MTX TWINS
AIR BOX IMPELLER REMOVED!! RESONATOR PLUGGED !!!
AUTOMETER ULTRALITE GAUGES IN POD. TRANSGO JR WORK RIG
O7.5 3500 CREW, LMM, ROYAL UTILITY BED
4" DIAMOND EYE EXHAUST.DPF???KITTY?? QUADZILLA PROGRAMMER. MTX AMP AND 10" TWINS IN THE BACK. STEPS,VISORS,BUG SHEILD. AIRBOX IMPELLER REMOVED,RESONATOR PLUGGED,LOTS OF PRETTY DIAMOND PLATE EVERYWHERE
yeah I figured they may have come a little loose but the positive terminal does seem like it has quite a bit of build up on it. (from previous leaky battery) Before installing however, I did purchase a battery acid cleaner/inhibitor and sprayed down all my contacts and connections with that both before and after installation. I was more concerned with the acid ruining the connection on the positive terminal or worst making it's way into the wiring and doing damage there. It's just wierd because if you jiggle the positive wire then power goes on and off. I just have to crank it down when it's in the right spot.
Thats why I hate side mount batteries. I had the same problem with my 02 and I had to soak the cable in some cola then clean the syrup off it and then put the protectant back on. Did you stack the washers on behind the post?? If you did not then you might try that too, so the lead makes contact first. It conducts electricity easier.
__________________ 06 2500 CREW CAB 4X4 LBZ
4" DIAMOND EYE EXHAUST, KITTY RAN OFF!!!
DIABLO @ 120HP. 285/75 BFG's RUNNIN ON ULTRA 16's
PIONEER HEAD UNIT RUNNIN SCOSCHE AMP W MTX TWINS
AIR BOX IMPELLER REMOVED!! RESONATOR PLUGGED !!!
AUTOMETER ULTRALITE GAUGES IN POD. TRANSGO JR WORK RIG
O7.5 3500 CREW, LMM, ROYAL UTILITY BED
4" DIAMOND EYE EXHAUST.DPF???KITTY?? QUADZILLA PROGRAMMER. MTX AMP AND 10" TWINS IN THE BACK. STEPS,VISORS,BUG SHEILD. AIRBOX IMPELLER REMOVED,RESONATOR PLUGGED,LOTS OF PRETTY DIAMOND PLATE EVERYWHERE
Forget the washers, get the correct bolt, as with washers you’ll never be able to have a tight connection unless you torque it down, and that’ll get you back into the same situation with a pulled seal on your new battery (if you haven’t already).
Second, you’ll be adding to your problems with the potential metallurgic reaction with the Zinc.
The one you purchased that is too long or too short is for the double head of the 6.5L era. If you can't get the correct bolt (dealer?), just cut the long one to fit. This may not work as well, as some replacements had a long collar at the top.
As to contamination, just pull the head back to access the crimp at the end of the wire. Use a spray acid neutralizer at this point instead of household remedies, and you’ll be fine. Don’t give up yet and butcher your cables. IMO, the side mount that is designed for your truck is the way to go.
__________________ 2005 Chev Duramax/Allison 3500LS DRW Crew Cab
CAI / LMM intake OH kit, Sulastic springs, Bilsteins,
B&W 30K-Turnover GN, Putnam XDR 15K, Ride-Rite Air Springs, A/T Revos.
Pulling 10 tons daily.
2006 Chev 6.0L/4L80e 3500WT DRW Ex-Cab
9 'Flat/GN, Ride-Rite Air Springs, A/T Revos.
Pulling 6 tons daily.
"The difference between liberals and cannibals, is that cannibals eat only their enemies." -Lyndon B.Johnson 100th
do you think i can just go to my local stealership and order the oem part? I got mine at napa and they basically had 2 sizes. One was way too small, and the other was way too big. I suppose i could cut the bolt if I can't find an oem piece.
I have made a conscious effort not to over tighten although my batteries have a warranty.
Last edited by bajafishing : 07-01-2008 at 10:25 PM.
do you think i can just go to my local stealership and order the oem part? I got mine at napa and they basically had 2 sizes. One was way too small, and the other was way too big. I suppose i could cut the bolt if I can't find an oem piece.
I have made a conscious effort not to over tighten although my batteries have a warranty.
I've seen various styles of replacement bolts at different Auto Supply stores, you may want to shop around. I see no reason why a dealer parts wouldn't have these in stock.
__________________ 2005 Chev Duramax/Allison 3500LS DRW Crew Cab
CAI / LMM intake OH kit, Sulastic springs, Bilsteins,
B&W 30K-Turnover GN, Putnam XDR 15K, Ride-Rite Air Springs, A/T Revos.
Pulling 10 tons daily.
2006 Chev 6.0L/4L80e 3500WT DRW Ex-Cab
9 'Flat/GN, Ride-Rite Air Springs, A/T Revos.
Pulling 6 tons daily.
"The difference between liberals and cannibals, is that cannibals eat only their enemies." -Lyndon B.Johnson 100th
Wait, even with the terminal disconnected from the battery you should still have power available from the second battery sufficient to start... you said it was dead?
__________________ 2005 Chev Duramax/Allison 3500LS DRW Crew Cab
CAI / LMM intake OH kit, Sulastic springs, Bilsteins,
B&W 30K-Turnover GN, Putnam XDR 15K, Ride-Rite Air Springs, A/T Revos.
Pulling 10 tons daily.
2006 Chev 6.0L/4L80e 3500WT DRW Ex-Cab
9 'Flat/GN, Ride-Rite Air Springs, A/T Revos.
Pulling 6 tons daily.
"The difference between liberals and cannibals, is that cannibals eat only their enemies." -Lyndon B.Johnson 100th
yup the 2nd battery (passenger side) has the oem bolts and was installed properly. The issue is with the driver side battery.
Truck doesn't even come close to starting on the single battery. I am gonna get the oem bolt and see if that solves the problem, if not then something may be fishy. Ill keep you guys posted.
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