I was looking for a way to upgrade my factory transmission cooler to one that cooled a little better. In my research, I found that the Earl's 82510ERL. There is a couple of threads on them installed, but nothing picture heavy and detailed on the installation.
Difficulty: 4 out of 10
I say a 4 out of 10 because it does take a little time fabricating the upper brackets.
Install Time: 1 hour
I did this by myself. There is no need for another set of hands unless you want to speed the process up and have someone to drink with.
Parts Needed:
- Earl's Cooler (Part #: 82510ERL)
- 2x Cooler to OEM Cooler Line Fitting Adapters (Parker/Air Hydro Power Part #: 10-1/2 F5OG-S)
- Some sort of steel/aluminum flat stock for making new mounting brackets
- 8x 1/4"x1" bolts and nuts
- 8x 1/4" rubber washers
I can't say for sure, but I believe if you are upgrading a '03-'04 LB7, you will not need the adapter fittings.
Tools Needed:
- Phillips Screw Driver
- Flat Screw Driver
- 1/4" Drive 10mm Socket
- 1/4" Drive Ratchet
- 1-1/4" Wrench
- 1-1/8" Wrench
- 1/4" Drill Bit
- Drill
Comparison of OEM Cooler and Earl's 82510ERL:
Here is a couple pictures comparing the OEM Cooler to the Earl's. You can see how much larger the Earl's cooler is than the OEM cooler.
Prior To Install:
Prior to the installation, you can install the adapter fittings into the new cooler. Be sure to coat the o-rings with oil prior to install.
Here is the fittings you will be using.
Installation:
Start by removing the upper grill cover by removing the plastic tabs that hold it in.
Once the upper grill cover is off, remove the 10mm bolt in the upper center of the grill. This is the only "bolt" that holds the grill in. Now use your Phillips Screw Driver to turn the 4 clips holding the grill in (on all 4 corners of the grill). Once these are loose, pull the cross bar of the grill loose from each fender.
Now using your 1-1/4" wrench, take the fittings loose from the OEM cooler. It is a good idea to wrap a rag around the lines to catch any fluid that comes out.
Now, take your flat screw driver and pop the plastic clips holding the lower portion of the cooler to the truck. Once these are out, use your 10mm socket to remove the 2 upper bolts. When you have all 4 of these out, you can take the cooler out of the truck and place it somewhere to collect the fluid inside it.
To make the lower brackets, I cut a 2.5" piece off my galvanized flat stock. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the one end. Mount these to the lower mounting holes and loosely with a bolt and nut. This will allow you to mark where the cooler mount holes need to be. Now place your cooler onto the lower mounting brackets and mark the holes. Be sure to have the cooler back as close to the cross bar you are mounting to. Mark the holes and drill them. Put the lower brackets back on the lower cross bar and go ahead and loosely mount the cooler to them.
Now is a good time to use our sealant tape on the OEM fittings. Once that is done, install the fittings into the adapters. Snug the fittings up as this is the final time they will be removed.
Now you are going to make your upper brackets. I took a 8" piece of my flat stock and bent a tab to mate up to the upper bolt hole that was used by the OEM cooler. I then bent it to where it would meet the upper bracket of the Earl's cooler. This will take some trial and error to get it correct.
Once you have it correct, mark the spot on the bracket to drill the hole for the cooler mount. When you have it drilled, install the upper bracket loosely.
Repeat this for the opposite side.
When you put the brackets on the cooler, it is a good idea to put some rubber washers between the brackets and the cooler.
Once you have both upper brackets made and mounted, go through and tighten all your bolts down.
Now start the truck and cycle through the gears, stopping in D and R for about a minute each. Put the truck back into P and check for leaks at your fittings. If there are no leaks, you can now you can re-install the grill.
When you install the upper grill cover, you will have to cut the tab that sticks down. It is there for no purpose.
Finished product:
Difficulty: 4 out of 10
I say a 4 out of 10 because it does take a little time fabricating the upper brackets.
Install Time: 1 hour
I did this by myself. There is no need for another set of hands unless you want to speed the process up and have someone to drink with.
Parts Needed:
- Earl's Cooler (Part #: 82510ERL)
- 2x Cooler to OEM Cooler Line Fitting Adapters (Parker/Air Hydro Power Part #: 10-1/2 F5OG-S)
- Some sort of steel/aluminum flat stock for making new mounting brackets
- 8x 1/4"x1" bolts and nuts
- 8x 1/4" rubber washers
I can't say for sure, but I believe if you are upgrading a '03-'04 LB7, you will not need the adapter fittings.
Tools Needed:
- Phillips Screw Driver
- Flat Screw Driver
- 1/4" Drive 10mm Socket
- 1/4" Drive Ratchet
- 1-1/4" Wrench
- 1-1/8" Wrench
- 1/4" Drill Bit
- Drill
Comparison of OEM Cooler and Earl's 82510ERL:
Here is a couple pictures comparing the OEM Cooler to the Earl's. You can see how much larger the Earl's cooler is than the OEM cooler.
Prior To Install:
Prior to the installation, you can install the adapter fittings into the new cooler. Be sure to coat the o-rings with oil prior to install.
Here is the fittings you will be using.
Installation:
Start by removing the upper grill cover by removing the plastic tabs that hold it in.
Once the upper grill cover is off, remove the 10mm bolt in the upper center of the grill. This is the only "bolt" that holds the grill in. Now use your Phillips Screw Driver to turn the 4 clips holding the grill in (on all 4 corners of the grill). Once these are loose, pull the cross bar of the grill loose from each fender.
Now using your 1-1/4" wrench, take the fittings loose from the OEM cooler. It is a good idea to wrap a rag around the lines to catch any fluid that comes out.
Now, take your flat screw driver and pop the plastic clips holding the lower portion of the cooler to the truck. Once these are out, use your 10mm socket to remove the 2 upper bolts. When you have all 4 of these out, you can take the cooler out of the truck and place it somewhere to collect the fluid inside it.
To make the lower brackets, I cut a 2.5" piece off my galvanized flat stock. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the one end. Mount these to the lower mounting holes and loosely with a bolt and nut. This will allow you to mark where the cooler mount holes need to be. Now place your cooler onto the lower mounting brackets and mark the holes. Be sure to have the cooler back as close to the cross bar you are mounting to. Mark the holes and drill them. Put the lower brackets back on the lower cross bar and go ahead and loosely mount the cooler to them.
Now is a good time to use our sealant tape on the OEM fittings. Once that is done, install the fittings into the adapters. Snug the fittings up as this is the final time they will be removed.
Now you are going to make your upper brackets. I took a 8" piece of my flat stock and bent a tab to mate up to the upper bolt hole that was used by the OEM cooler. I then bent it to where it would meet the upper bracket of the Earl's cooler. This will take some trial and error to get it correct.
Once you have it correct, mark the spot on the bracket to drill the hole for the cooler mount. When you have it drilled, install the upper bracket loosely.
Repeat this for the opposite side.
When you put the brackets on the cooler, it is a good idea to put some rubber washers between the brackets and the cooler.
Once you have both upper brackets made and mounted, go through and tighten all your bolts down.
Now start the truck and cycle through the gears, stopping in D and R for about a minute each. Put the truck back into P and check for leaks at your fittings. If there are no leaks, you can now you can re-install the grill.
When you install the upper grill cover, you will have to cut the tab that sticks down. It is there for no purpose.
Finished product: