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How To Replace CV Shaft

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How To Replace a CV Shaft On Your GM HD 4x4
As many of us know, the IFS on our trucks has its weak points and when things aren’t set up right front end parts break. And if you’ve got your tie rod issues solved you may find the CV (Constant Velocity) Shafts are the next weak link. These are also known as halfshafts. If you do not have a locker for the front end you will most likely be breaking the passenger side shaft. If you do have a locker you will most likely be breaking the driver’s side shaft and probably other shafts inside the front differential and if you do, see my write-up on how to remove the front differential. These are not scientific facts just things I’ve noticed. Now this write-up is not just for those of you who compete and breaks shafts its for anybody who needs to replace one. It may sound like a big task but it’s a very simple task anybody could perform.


Difficulty: Id say 2 or 3 on a scale to 10. Its not as easy as changing your oil but its still something your average driveway mechanic can accomplish. You may need to borrow the BIG socket though.


Estimated Time: 20 minutes to an hour.


Tools Required:
1. 36mm or 1 3/8” or 1 7/16” Socket
2. ¾” Ratchet, breaker bar or adapter to fit ½”
3. Impact with adapters (optional)
4. 10mm Socket and 15mm socket with ratchets.
5. Torque Wrench (Suggested)
6. Vise Grips, Grinder/sawzall may be needed.
7. Dead Blow Hammer (Fancy name for big hammer.
8. Jack and Jack Stands
9. 7/8 Socket
10. Flat head screwdrivers or pry bars.


Parts Needed: CV Shaft obviously, I just use NAPA a lot of the shaft is GM parts anyways. A New shaft will run you a little over $100. You may also need a sway bar end link repair kit if you opt to just cut them instead of fight them. This kit is about $45 from NAPA and includes both end links.


Instructions:
1.Remove The Hub cap with the 7/8” socket. Yes you can use the impact to remove it.

2.Now remove the dust cap. It’s the shiny gold or rusty thing in the middle. To remove it get the flathead under the lip of it and pry it off. Its usually on there pretty good. Removing the wheel and tire makes this easier but you will need the wheel and tire on there if you plan on not using an impact wrench to remove the big lock nut.

3.Now remove the big lock but using the big socket and either an impact or breaker bar, a 36mm is a perfect fit, a 1 3/8” will need to be pounded on and a 1 7/16” will be a little loose but its what I use.

4.Leave the vehicle on the ground with the wheel attached. Remove the front splash shield with a 15mm socket. Then using the 15mm start removing the 6 bolts that attach the CV shaft to the output shaft. To get to the other bolts that you can’t reach jack the vehicle up in the air and rotate the tire till you can reach them then let the vehicle down and remove them. You can see the holes to the far right in this pic. My front differential is out of the truck at this point so the bolts aren't in.

5.Now remove the sway bar end link using the 10mm. The bolt head is at the bottom and it threads into the washer at the top. You can hold the washer with a vise grip or be lazy like me and just cut the link in half and replace it with a new one. You can see it in the foreground of the picture above its the vertical shaft.

6.Now you will have room to slide the shaft out. It does have a lip on it that holds it into the output shaft. Also you may need to hit it a few times to break it loose from the hub.

7.Now jack the vehicle back up and install the new CV shaft sliding it into the hub then lining it up with the bolt holes in the output shaft. Jacking the vehicle up and spinning the tire makes this easier. Then start all of the 6 bolts that hold the shaft to the output shaft. Then set the vehicle down now torque the bolts to 58lb-ft raising the vehicle and repositioning as necessary. Torque it like any 6 bolt wheel.

8.Now Install the new sway bar end link or old one and tighten until the washers are slightly smushing the rubbers.

9.Now install the new locknut to the shaft and torque to 155lb-ft

10.Now you can reinstall the splash shield, dust cab, and hubcap. If you removed the wheel torque to 120-150lbs. And don’t use neverseize on the studs. As tempting as it is it will have a negative effect. Our wheels are centered by the lug-nut much like on stud pilot semi wheels. The neversieze often gets in between the wheel and the hub and when torque down will seem fine but it’s a false torque. Since the neversieze creates a space in between the wheel and hub over time it will work its way out and then your wheel will be loose and be ruined along with the hub. And also as many may know, don’t rattle the lugnut on with an impact. You may not break the stud at first but you will stretch it which will cause it to fail. Using a torque stick is OK but you still should torque the wheel once finished.

And there you have it. All ready to go hit the road. Remember to re-torque the wheel after 100 miles of service.
 
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