Traction Bar Pics - Page 3

jcambron · 09-17-2009, 08:17 AM

Installing a 4-link would be out of the question for myself. Completely understand ladder bars apply force to the rear wheels by shifting the weight from the front. What is the difference and why do some people go from rear end to front spring mount and others go so far forward on the frame? Will eventually be looking for low 12's out of the truck.

**Hondarider552** · 09-17-2009, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Six-Gun-Todd

Let me demonstrate why you need traction bars/cal tracs.......20 psi launch at the track last night in 4x4.....truck wheel hopped so hard it broke something in the system and wala no 4x4.

Rookie mistake

20psi is way too much boost for a 1st gear launch. try it in 2nd.

Nemo · 09-17-2009, 11:42 AM

Ill post pictures of my 64" Traction bars later tonight if I can get the picture on my computer...

**MMLMM** · 09-17-2009, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IdahoRob

Again the pic of above is not right either for track use. The bars are pointed way below centerline thus lifting the front. Good for 2x4 though. They will help with axle wrap though. A set of spring clamps helps without bars.

Think guys. The front tires on a 4x4 do a great deal of the work pulling the truck down the track. Do you want to help unload the front tires, or do you want to plant the front tires? You may not think that helps much on a high 12 second truck, but it does. Then get to setting up a 9 sec truck and it makes a world of difference.

Centerline is the point where you can balance the truck like a teeter-tauter verticely and then draw a line at crankshaft height. Where those two points meet is your centerline. The bars need to be pointing at or above this(either with the back lower, or the front higher, or both). Here is a basic pic from a 4 link software program, but you can use the bottom bar for reference. With this software, I can change different settings on the trucks and find the best setup for each application.

I hope you are not suggesting the setup in the pic for our trucks. that is a coil over 4 link and means shit to us. Hell theres a panhard bar in there too which we dont run and that will also change rear axle travel

Rob do you currently use software for racing our type of suspension? If so please post a screen shot of this as I woul be very interested to see. You cant just pull a pic from the net, none the less a pic from performance trends 4 link software...

If you want the perfect setup your going to need a lot more info. First you need to find IC length and height (not crank line).

If you are only running traction bars, Your bars will need to be horizontal to the trucks forward motion line as possible. If you run a 4 link this will change everything.

Once the bars are pointing in a direction out of the force line, you will get leverage. As Rob said with the bars pointed up the leverage will pull down on the front. Thats a good thought, how ever our rear suspension is not that strong and what will happen is, instead of the front being pressed down, the rear axle will actually roll back. Then as the axle rolls back into place and into its normal position it will basically pick weight up off the front. (again for a traction bar to help add weight to the front successfully you would need a bar over the top (Pull bar or 4 link).

So again, traction bars are not for weight transfer, they will not work for this correctly and if setup for it, will cause you a fight. traction bars serve 1 purpose the way we put them on our trucks...to stop rear axle wrap. If my truck was running 10s or faster I would be looking at adding a pull bar or going to a 4 link or Z bar setup.

**Six-Gun-Todd** · 09-17-2009, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondarider552

Rookie mistake

20psi is way too much boost for a 1st gear launch. try it in 2nd.

Ok then maestro......I didn't break the transfer case and the front diff is in good shape so what did I break ??

**MMLMM** · 09-17-2009, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Six-Gun-Todd

Ok then maestro......I didn't break the transfer case and the front diff is in good shape so what did I break ??

what do you mean no 4x4?

half shaft?
rear diff?
Are you positive its not in the T-Case?

Todd try launching at 10psi and work up lol.
also, your brakes held that back? what converter are you running and what rpm did you take it too?

20psi boosted launch

**bnkrupt** · 09-17-2009, 11:33 PM

1054... ^^

thats some crazy chit.. Did you properly diagnose the problem Todd?? What was it?

Dmax15 · 09-17-2009, 11:36 PM

Here are some that I made. Used the ballistic joints on the one end.

**MMLMM** · 09-17-2009, 11:40 PM

^^^

you stamped those frame brackets

Iceman56 · 09-18-2009, 06:53 AM

thanks for all the info and pics guys, good info although don't know if I can understand much of it

reason for the traction bars is mainly just to stop axle wrap on the pulling track. On a hard pulling track my truck eats driveshafts like crazy and I think some of the problem might be from the axle wrapping and putting pressure on the shaft.

Got the pipe and turn buckles here and a good idea of what I want to do but I can't find anyone with a damn left handed nut that I can weld on the pipe and I can't find anyone that will inner thread the pipe

I can get them but I wanted them for Saturday for a big pull. Ugh if I break my new 6" shaft I am gonna be pissed as all hell, that thing cost a butt load.