How To: Install Cab Lights - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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How To: Install Cab Lights

Purchased cab lights from: Pacer Chevy/GMC Style Amber Running Lights Kit (2002-2007) - PAC20-240
Price Paid: $70 shipped
Date Installed: 1/27/2004

This guide is also available in PDF Format

This document covers my experience installing the Pacer Hi-Five running lights on my 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD. This document is intended to serve as a guide to Hi-Five (Pacer) Cab Light Installation (2003 Chevrolet 2500HD)
others. I take no responsibility of the steps outlined within, use at your own risk.

If you want more information/resources on the Pacer Hi-Five lights do a Yahoo search on “hi-five cab light installation”.

Here they are …

Hi Five Running Light Kit Features:
• Provides Maximum Visibility
• Meets S.A.E. specifications
• Adapts to Curved and Flat Roofs
• Replaceable Bulbs
• Kit includes 2 Clearance Lights and 1 Three Lamp Cluster Marker Light
• Complete Wire Harness with Quick Wire Connectors
• All Necessary Hardware and Illustrated Installation Instructions

The light kit comes with everything required to install, except you’ll want to have some silicone/sealant on hand for sealing holes, wires, and tools. Some people have installed the lights without using sealant however I didn’t like the thought of water dripping inside. The chance is still there I guess. These lights look factory; in fact I wouldn’t be surprised if they are the same as OEM. I think I read somewhere where someone said the part numbers are the same. Nevertheless they appear to be nice lights.


The installation took me approximately 5 hours. I’m slow, meticulous and wanted to be sure I did it right the first time and end the job with no extra holes  Leaks? Time will tell however I feel very good about the install and the method I used and don’t expect any leaks. Update, after 3 years I have yet to have a leak. I had to replace one bulb that burnt out.

The installation can be broken down into 5 main steps:

1. Drop front part of headliner
2. Measure/Mark holes for lights
3. Mount Lights
4. Wire Lights
5. Re-assembly

Drop Headliner

• Remove sun visor assemblies and sun visor clamp (Torx 15 & 20 required)
• Disengage passenger side grab handle. Insert small flat screwdriver to pull out covers/lock mechism, then pull out on handle until you feel in disengage. There is no need to remove handle from headliner.
• Disengage DS and PS pillar covers. Pull out at top and away from pillar. Lower panel(s) down so you can drop headliner about 4-6”.

• Remove overhead console. Remove front screw. Slide console forward a little and pull down in rear as is a clamp on each side that locks it into the overhead.
• Disconnect Onstar speaker plug (if equipped) and map light plug. Remove console.

At this point you should be able to pull the front part of the headliner down around the front of the windshield. Mine only dropped about 2” but I was able to pull it down later to reach the wires.

Mount Lights
This is the fun part  The side marker lights require 2 holes and the center light 5 holes IIRC. Take your time and measure everything twice to make sure you don’t drill any extra holes. You only have one chance.

Where to mount:
Based on posts in various forums I mounted my lights as follows:

Side lights:
• On driver and passenger side, it is 4 1/4 inches from near edge of black rubber door rubber gasket to the near edge (side) of the roof marker lamp gasket
• 4 1/8” from near edge of black rubber windshield gasket to front edge of the roof marker lamp gasket

Center Light:
• 3 1/8 from near edge of black rubber windhield gasket to near edge of the center roof marker lamp gasket. Make sure you measure across to find center of roof and center light accordingly. IIRC, center is around 27 ¾” measuring of the windshield top corner moldings.

I placed the lights at the approximate locations and placed masking tape on roof so I could mark/drill without damaging paint. It’s best to start with the center light so you’re not leaning over the outside lights during install.

Measure all lights and mark holes. Once I had lights in place and measured I used a sharp tipped round scribe to mark the holes as you will need to place it down thru the light holes which are about 1” tall. This made marks on my tape when I then marked better with a fine tip black marker once I removed the lights.

The screw holes require a 7/64” drill bit. I bought a new, quality drill bit for the job. I wasn’t going to jeopardize my truck with my assortment of drill bits as sharp as a butter knife. 

When ready, get your drill. Depending on nerves a shot of whiskey may help also. Drill all holes starting with the center light first. When done you should have something that looks like:

You will also need holes for the wires. I opted to install one rubber grommet per light and routed both wires thru the grommet. The grommets I used had a slot diameter of 5/16” therefore I drilled one 5/16” hole for each light and inserted a rubber grommet. Some guys just drill a small hole and insert the wires directly thru the roof and silicone wires. I’m sure that works too but I didn’t like the thought of a shorted wire down the road so I went the grommet route. Once the wire holes were drilled, I removed the tape and inserted the grommets ending up with a roof looking like:

Mount Lights

Each of the Hi Five lights has a 6” hot lead and a short 3” ground lead with a loop. The installation instructions say to mount ground with one of the light wires. I didn’t like this approach so I decided to run hot and ground wires to the PS fuse panel where I would tap for power/ground. I cut off the ground loop and added more wire to the hot and ground so I could coil some extra wire up on the base of each light for the time when I need to change a light bulb. The extra wire will provide enough free play to change out the bulb without pulling the wires from inside the cab thru the grommet(s). I also ensured I had at least 1’ of extra wire inside the cab for each light so I could easily attach the wires to main power/ground wires I would run from the driver’s side across to the passenger side and down the PS pillar to the fuse panel.

Feed wires thru roof and mount lights. Before screwing in the lights I dabbed the screw threads in silicone to help seal the holes. The extra silicone works it’s way up the screw holes to the screw head providing a good seal around the head too. Tighten each light snug, do not over tighten the lights or you may break a lense, strip the holes, etc. It’s pretty easy to tell when the light starts to snug down on the gasket/roof. Make sure the lenses are seated correctly in the gaskets. If you tighten too much the gasket may start lifting up on the hood. Just use common sense here and you’ll be fine.

Note: There are black plastic ‘T’s” that come with the lights. The “T’s” install in the screw holes from the bottom of the light. I guess they help stabilize the screws. Be sure you use them.

Wire Lights

I started by creating a 2-wire harness that would run across the cab from the drivers side to the passenger’s side then down the PS pillar to the fuse box. I taped the wires together every foot or so just to keep them together and reduce the chance of rattles, etc. I also duct taped the wires to the roof to keep them from bouncing around between the headliner and roof.

Run the 2-wire harness between the headliner and roof from the hole in the headliner where the console attaches to the drivers side door/pillar area, then run the rest of the harness from overhead console to the PS side.

Connect the drivers side marker light using splice connectors. You may need to pull down the headliner with one hand while you reach up and grab the wires to the light.

Connect the center light to the wire harness using splice connectors. Tie-wrap the wires to the existing harness and or duct tape the wires to the roof. I did both.

Connect the PS cab light to the harness again tie-wrapping in place and or using duct tape.

Route the harness down the PS pillar and thru the opening at the corner of the pillar. I found it easiest to route mechanic’s wire first then use the wire to pull the wire harness down underneath the glove box right behind the connector panel.

IMPORTANT: The passenger side fuse panel on 2003 models has a cab light power source but I don’t have a clue as to if this exists on older or newer trucks. You will need to find/verify your power source in advance so you know where you need to route the power/ground wires.

Install the fused lead that comes with the kit to the hot wire and attach a female connector to the ground wire.

Attach power and ground wires and test lights. If Murphy is on your side, they all work!


This is the easy part. Just re-install everything you removed earlier when dropping the headliner.

1. Install the PS grab handle
2. Re-install DS and PS pillars
3. Re-install both sun visors (Torx 15 and 20)
4. Reinstall center console.
5. Take another shot of whiskey!  Job all done.

Permission to use this document for personal use is hereby granted without fee, provided that the guide is left intact and not altered in any way. The use of this guide, or web links/references to, is strictly prohibited in regards to commercial use such as advertising and/or publicity pertaining to similar cab light products without specific, written prior permission. The guide is intended as a do-it-yourself guide and the author hereby takes *NO* responsibility for vehicle damage or personal injury as a result of using the guide. The guide is to be used SOLEY at your own RISK.

02 chevy 2500hd crew cab:Shoot
bully dog triple dog programmer, PPE Boost Increase valve, MPRP 4 inch straight pipe, cts leveling kit, cognito upper control arms
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 11:48 AM
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Did you take pictures well doing this?
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 05-29-2016, 08:04 PM
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Everyone I know who has done this has ended up having them leak I don't know if you already put clear silicone around them but it wouldn't be a bad idea.
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