How to: Replace rear axle seal. - Page 2 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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Old 11-05-2010, 06:14 AM   eBay Motors  #11 (permalink)
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Thanks!..

Autozone and Advanced auto up here in new york both have the tool for rental. So you can rent it for free, or do like I did and not return it.. Then they just keep your deposit, which was only 20 bucks.. Probably a lil on the expensive end...

I figure that with 8 freinds with chevys some one will be needing it soon enough, so i'll have it for them.
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:47 PM   eBay Motors  #12 (permalink)
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Few small tips since I have to do these on a weekly basis at work.

-Once both caliper bolts are removed, take a thin prybar or a screw driver and stick it in one of the holes on the back of the caliper, slide it into one of the slots on the edge of the rotor, and pry it just a little bit to push the caliper pistons back. Makes for a much easier to re-install the caliper. (Don't forget to pump the brake pedal a few times before you drive off after)

- When installing the seal into the hub, try and find a piece of pipe or something that fits nicely over ONLY the metal part of the seal. These are two piece seals and if you damage the inner portion, you will most likely be replacing it again.

- If you are draining the rear differential while doing rear axle seals, make sure to pre lube the hub bearings somehow. Either by squirting some gear oil into the end of the hub before completely sliding the axle shaft back in, or by jacking up one side of the truck for a few minutes, then jack up the other side.this allows some oil to flow down the inside of the axle housing to your hubs. Sadly, I have seen a few bearings fail almost immediately after a customer drives off with thier truck due to not lubing the bearings.


If I can think of anymore, I will post them. Hopefully I can save someone a little bit of grief!
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:24 PM   eBay Motors  #13 (permalink)
 
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Great Info Man!

I just did mine while replacing my Brakes 2 months ago. I have done several other seal replacements but never on a HD and learned on my own. Good stuff though.
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:12 PM   eBay Motors  #14 (permalink)
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do you need to replace the brake pads, or can you just clean the heck out of them?
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Old 12-02-2010, 05:14 PM   eBay Motors  #15 (permalink)
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Don't need to replace them unless they are shot..

I just used about 1 and half cans of brake cleaner on them and got as much gear oil off as I could. rag spray rag spray, had a nice pile of rags when done, but cleaned up just fine. good luck..
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Old 12-19-2010, 03:32 PM   eBay Motors  #16 (permalink)
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I changed the axel seals on my 06 lbz and the new ones leaked worse than the old ones. I took the hubs back off and noticed a piece of the old seal was still on the spindle. So i removed the metal part of the old seal that looks kind of like a sleeve and is hard to see. replaced everything and i believe it fixed it. Drove it 30 miles and no leaks. Also, the complete hub assy. went on easier. I guess when i torqed the hub on the first time, the seal pushed the old part of the seal all the way to the back plate, which made it hard to remove. Anyone else have this problem?
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Last edited by 69 chevy coppertop; 01-17-2011 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:02 AM   eBay Motors  #17 (permalink)
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Awesome write up!

Going to be doing this in a few hours on my 2500HD. The rotor is off, and diff is drained. I have to get the seals which are in stock, and the socket. So there is only one seal for the hub (is that called an inner)? The other side of the hub is sealed by the rtv and the axle shaft flange?

So the bearing is being lubricated by the gear oil, unlike my S10 (2WD) that I have to pack grease into them and the do an inner and outer seal?

After the 52 ft lbs of torq is put on the nut you back it off and only have to hand tighten the nut? I assume too tight on the nut will ruin the bearing?

Thanks!
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:22 AM   eBay Motors  #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaguar3500 View Post
Great info , I found it very helpfull. The one thing that I would make sure you have BEFORE you start is the right spindle socket- I spent 3hrs driving around to find one because no one had a listing for it. Finally found one at NAPA by matching a spindle nut which they did not know it fit because thier books did not list it .

Good luck Jaguar3500
def a pain to find, luckily my buddy is a tool guru and has 4 diff ones, i torqued mine to 55 ft lbs and backed it off til the key way fit into place.but I didnt use blue goo, the act. GM seals are 9 bucks and makes me feel better.
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Old 01-23-2011, 07:59 AM   eBay Motors  #19 (permalink)
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I did the same thing as far as torq'ing the spline nut to the spec and backing it off until the key lined up, but it seems to be a little tuff to turn. Maybe it is just the new seal that makes it that hard to turn?
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:59 PM   eBay Motors  #20 (permalink)
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i think, one of mine turned snug and the other kinda loose but ive put 12k miles on it since then and no leaks yet so it must be right.
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"The Blessed Hellride"-08' GMC Sierra SLT CC/SB, 12,000 miles!
Engine-EFI Live, blocked, re routed, air box mod, 3" downpipe, raptor 100 lift pump, amsoil
Trans- Transgo jr. and deep pan
Exhaust- 4" MBRP straight pipe, 5" RBP tip
Suspension- leveled, PAC Brake air bags
Other- Fab fours winch bumper, large fender mod, 17x9 Fuel kranks, 35" Cooper STT's, limo tint, 100 gal. Fuel tank, tool box.
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