Think I fried my cluster circuit board doing LED swap - Page 2 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:22 PM   eBay Motors  #11 (permalink)
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I believe you are looking a a vacuum display module and they always have a flash "getter" mark on them. This is normal...

PoPtarts "leds HAVE to be + to + and - to -"... for them to work but they do not short out if reversed... read my post
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Old 11-18-2012, 02:55 PM   eBay Motors  #12 (permalink)
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Yes that is what I was referring to, good to know that is normal. Even if the LED's where installed incorrectly would it cause the VDM not to work?
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:24 AM   eBay Motors  #13 (permalink)
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Well I followed some detailed write ups and I'm pretty much positive I have the LEDS in the right positive and negative positions and still nothing will light up. The only thing that is lit is a little orange light in the upper left hand corner which I believe is the check engine light. Any other ideas?
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:57 AM   eBay Motors  #14 (permalink)
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guess you do have the dimmer turned up? Does the rest of the dash light up, such as the radio?

Another question... do the gauges work? Do the turn indicators work?
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:33 AM   eBay Motors  #15 (permalink)
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Yes I've messed with the dimmer. The radio works fine the things that don't work are the gauges, lights, turn signals and the bottom display strip.
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:18 PM   eBay Motors  #16 (permalink)
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My buddy had a spare cluster that I plugged in and it still didn't work so I guess my cluster is fine. I already checked all my fuses and they all looked good so I'm stumped. Any more ideas?
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:54 PM   eBay Motors  #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by testdrive View Post
A led installed backwards will not short out, it just will not light up. Furthermore, it does not burn it out. A standard diode has a turn on voltage and will short out at anything above .6 vdc, but a LED diode operates in the turn-on mode and illuminates. Your LEDs have got a built in resistance allowing them to operate on 12 vdc.

X2

Putting in an LED incorectly will not short out the voltage......it works like a check valve. If you drive an LED above it's rated current (no way to regulate current on a retrofit so we limit voltage instead using a resistor) you will definitely shorten it's life or worse, it will burn out. The 12V LEDs simply have a built in resistor to knock the 12V down to a more reasonable working voltage for the LED (usually between 2.8-3.4V).


OP, check the voltage coming into the cluster.......sounds like something happened there.
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:45 PM   eBay Motors  #18 (permalink)
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This thread is so full of disinformation its not funny.

First LEDs are driven by current, not voltage. Although the two are related they should not be confused. A resistor is used to limit the current going through a diode so as to not overdrive it with too much current. The size of the resistor is determined by how much voltage is present. With the OP's situation this is already taken care of with the built in resistor.

Next, lets deal with how you are testing stuff. You state that your fuses "look" good, what does this mean? Did you pull them and test with a meter, physically look at them, etc.?

Also its a bad idea to infer from other's work and diagrams and assume that your board is the same as the one in the write up. You should really test all the locations with a multimeter while the board is powered to determine pos and neg locations. Manufacturers constantly change component layout on a circuit board to save money and lower costs, to get better performance and longevity, and to replace obsolete components with new variations.

I also don't believe that you have damaged your board to the point of doing what it is by soldiering a few LEDs in place. It is much more likely that you would have damaged individual components and/or traces on the board. It definately sounds like a fuse or short issue. Do you have power where you are supposed to coming into the cluster plug? Since you swapped your buddies cluster into your truck, have you tried putting it back in his? Have you tried putting yours in his (of course with all the LEDs removed just in case you caused a short)?

Also what kind of testing and troubleshooting tools, equipment , experience do you have?
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:02 PM   eBay Motors  #19 (permalink)
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the above poster asked good questions about tools. Test light, dc volt meter,
With these tools you can test fuses and voltages while the circuit is active. We will try to work with you, but you need at the minimum you need a test light and a volt meter. I saw a Harbor Freight add with one at $4.95.

Important, does your truck start and run and are your batteries fully charged?

Read the voltage on the plug to the IP and report back.
A11 (red) is the dimmer control wire
B9 (pink)
B11 (orange)
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Last edited by testdrive; 11-20-2012 at 05:51 AM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:06 AM   eBay Motors  #20 (permalink)
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I got it all figured out. I'm an idiot and simply had the plug going to the cluster flipped the wrong way. You think the plug would go in only one way but it will fit both ways and one of the ways will make it not work. It was giving me hell so I called my grandfather over and he pugged it in and it lighted right up. Thanks for all the help guys I can't believe that's all it was.



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2003 Cummins leveled on 35'' toyos, valair dual disk clutch, superchip - biggest POS ever-SOLD

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