Think I fried my cluster circuit board doing LED swap - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Think I fried my cluster circuit board doing LED swap

I bought the 12 volt LEDS from LED-switch.com that do not require a resistor. So I soldered them in and only one of the lights will flicker. I noticed at the little display strip on the bottom it's burnt so i think I fried it. I also plugged the board in with out the lights installed so maybe this was my problem. So do y'all think I fried my cluster? If not what did I do wrong?


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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 10:43 AM
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well first of all, there are no 12 volt LED lights, they are rated at 3 to 5 volts. second, you have to make sure you connect the positive to the positive and negative to the negative.
also when using the LED lights you have to use 470 ohm resistors on the positive lead of the LED lights. do first remove all the led lights you installed, and reconnect the power connector to see if the lcd still works. if so, then go back and read the write up to convert to LED.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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12 Volt LED this is where I got my LEDS

2003 GMC EC/SB 6'' pro comp lift, 37x13.5x20 cooper stt pro, 20x12 moto metals, EFI live by Kory, Fass 150
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 10:57 AM
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i went to the link, and seen they sell 12 volt, but, still, they must connect + to + and - to -, or they will short out the supply voltage to the board. LEDs are diodes. they are light emmitting diodes. they allow voltage to flow one way and not the other. if they are installed wrong, it will short out the voltage supply for the light circuit of the cluster.

2006 gmc 3500 xcab lb, with the LBZ.
with air dog lift pump, race valve, egr delete, and efi reprogram, thanks to husker diesel.
84 gal fuel cap.34 main and a 50 gal aux transflo system.
20k curt 5th wheel, 20k goose neck.
still stock. 4x4. 430,000 miles and counting.
transporting new units from factory to ia. dealers and ship.
engine replaced at 404,000 mi with one with 118,000 miles.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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I looked at a write up and I believe they are all put in the right way. If they were not would it still cause the little display strip on the bottom to not write up?

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 11:13 AM
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correct. it recieves the same voltage as the lights on the cluster. so if just one is in wrong, then nothing will light up. anotherthing is if you use to much heat on the LEDs, you can burn them out. should always solder one leg, use a heat sink, like needle nose pliers, then let cool, then do the other leg, use heat sink and cool.
soldering is nothing to get in a rush about. i worked in electronics for 15 years, and was an A student in vocational electronics for 2 years. never be in a hurry when soldering on electronic parts. they need to cool a bit before touching again with the iron.

2006 gmc 3500 xcab lb, with the LBZ.
with air dog lift pump, race valve, egr delete, and efi reprogram, thanks to husker diesel.
84 gal fuel cap.34 main and a 50 gal aux transflo system.
20k curt 5th wheel, 20k goose neck.
still stock. 4x4. 430,000 miles and counting.
transporting new units from factory to ia. dealers and ship.
engine replaced at 404,000 mi with one with 118,000 miles.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Well I just removed all the LEDS and the strip is still not working.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 01:03 PM
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I am sure you will find the problem, but nothing you have done yet has fried your cluster, I don't think. First thing I would check is to look for soldier bridges/splash where you have been soldiering.

A led installed backwards will not short out, it just will not light up. Furthermore, it does not burn it out. A standard diode has a turn on voltage and will short out at anything above .6 vdc, but a LED diode operates in the turn-on mode and illuminates.
Your LEDs have got a built in resistance allowing them to operate on 12 vdc.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by testdrive View Post
I am sure you will find the problem, but nothing you have done yet has fried your cluster, I don't think. First thing I would check is to look for soldier bridges/splash where you have been soldiering.

A led installed backwards will not short out, it just will not light up. Furthermore, it does not burn it out. A standard diode has a turn on voltage and will short out at anything above .6 vdc, but a LED diode operates in the turn-on mode and illuminates.
Your LEDs have got a built in resistance allowing them to operate on 12 vdc.
There's no bridges or splash. The reason why I think it's fried is because the bottom strip won't work even with out any lights installed and it has a burn mark on it.

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-18-2012, 02:15 PM
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i bet you popped a fuse.. and i did the swap on my 04 dodge. leds HAVE to be + to + and - to -
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