ABS Light - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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ABS Light

Hello all,

So a couple weeks ago I was asking about my wheel bearing and getting it fixed. Well the thing was messed up beyond belief so I had that replaced. My next problem after the new bearing was put in and all hooked back up the ABS light came on. Now with it being on the truck stop fines, it's when it turns off. When it turns off the brake pedal feels really hard and the truck pulls very hard to the left. The bearing was replaced on the passenger side. We took it all apart again today to look again and everything is hooked up right. Any Ideas on what would be causing this? It is scary as chit when it feels like the truck won't stop. Sorry for the lack of details but that is really all I know.
Thanks in advance for any help...

2005 LLY CCLB
Kenwood DNX 6180 indash nav/bluetooth/DVD JL amp and custom box with two JL 10's behind the seat.
LBZ mouthpiece- 4 in. MBRP straight
*coming soon EFI Live, zone 6 inch lift, 20's with 35's*

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/nvrider/gYBF5.gif
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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any suggestions?

2005 LLY CCLB
Kenwood DNX 6180 indash nav/bluetooth/DVD JL amp and custom box with two JL 10's behind the seat.
LBZ mouthpiece- 4 in. MBRP straight
*coming soon EFI Live, zone 6 inch lift, 20's with 35's*

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/nvrider/gYBF5.gif
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 09:19 PM
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There are some folks here that can explain it better, but the ABS appears to believe that your right front wheel is stopped or just slowed (from the wheel sensor reading). It then applys brake pressure to the left front wheel to slow them to the same speed.

Search the brake & ABS section here and it will be explained in detail. It's a dirty/rusty or misreading ABS wheel sensor. They get a little rust on them & the reluctor wheel gets read incorrectly. Easy fix with sandpaper or a new sensor.



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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you RMS, but they are brand new. The wheel bearing is a couple weeks old and we actually replaced the abs wire with a new one today. What you said makes complete sense and thats what we were thinking but it's just trying to figure out why, and the fact that the brake pedal gets really hard when the light goes off. I will search those other forums though

2005 LLY CCLB
Kenwood DNX 6180 indash nav/bluetooth/DVD JL amp and custom box with two JL 10's behind the seat.
LBZ mouthpiece- 4 in. MBRP straight
*coming soon EFI Live, zone 6 inch lift, 20's with 35's*

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/nvrider/gYBF5.gif
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 12:16 AM
ricers be like: wheel gap
 
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id just unplug the abs wire until you figure it out that way your safe at least


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoles92 View Post
id just unplug the abs wire until you figure it out that way your safe at least
I was actually thinking about that. I drive almost 600 miles a week and don't need the brakes acting up like that. That won't ruin anything? and it has nothing to do with two different wheel bearings with two different abs sensors?

2005 LLY CCLB
Kenwood DNX 6180 indash nav/bluetooth/DVD JL amp and custom box with two JL 10's behind the seat.
LBZ mouthpiece- 4 in. MBRP straight
*coming soon EFI Live, zone 6 inch lift, 20's with 35's*

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/nvrider/gYBF5.gif
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 10:57 AM
ricers be like: wheel gap
 
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I have a bad bearing and haven't gotten around to fixing it so I just leave it un plugged to avoid my truck doing the same thing yours is doing. The light will go off and pull hard one way. I don't think it will hurt anything, Maybe someone will chime in and let us know haha. Your caliper slides could be frozen too.. Just a thought. I had to take one of mine apart and clean it


PPE stage 5 w/ midwest converter 5" turbo back exhaust HSP billet s483 over stock twins. efi live by idaho rob, edge cts fass titanium. BDS 4.5" lift. BMF 20"s nitto 35"s brand new paint rockers bedsides cab corners. por-15 undercoat
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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The passanger bearing is brand new. Are you suggesting the other one may be bad which is causing it to pull to the driver side? I'm going to unplug it today and give her a test ride. Thank you guys for answering

2005 LLY CCLB
Kenwood DNX 6180 indash nav/bluetooth/DVD JL amp and custom box with two JL 10's behind the seat.
LBZ mouthpiece- 4 in. MBRP straight
*coming soon EFI Live, zone 6 inch lift, 20's with 35's*

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/nvrider/gYBF5.gif
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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so I unplugged the abs wire and took a little cruise. Everything seemed to be alright but I'll have to see what it does on longer drives. Thanks again for the responses

2005 LLY CCLB
Kenwood DNX 6180 indash nav/bluetooth/DVD JL amp and custom box with two JL 10's behind the seat.
LBZ mouthpiece- 4 in. MBRP straight
*coming soon EFI Live, zone 6 inch lift, 20's with 35's*

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b9/nvrider/gYBF5.gif
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