|05-28-2010, 07:59 PM||eBay Motors #21 (permalink)|
Join Date: Feb 2009
I read a few threads about this subject before doing mine. Here is how it went, idler came off with very little trouble while leaving center link in truck still connected to pitman arm. A week or so later I attempted the pitman arm. One thread said to use a cut off wheel and cut it off in line with the splines? I did, but I sure as heck was not going to cut into the splined shaft or cut/melt the seal on the shaft either. Well, 3 cuts later and that python was not coming off. Ok, other thread said to leave one bolt in (lose) in the steering box, shift it to get a puller on it, and pull it off. Sorry, no room to get puller in there to pull the arm off.
Finally, I pulled the final 3rd bolt out of the box and shifted the box up as far as I could to get puller on the arm. Started to attempt pulling procedure with nice long box wrench. Uhhhhh, thats a no go. So got the impact out and pulled the trigger. Nothing! Waited until compressor built up fo full PSI and gave it a go again. Finally that pitman arm came off!
Now, I discovered that the steering shaft came out somewhere when I pushed the box all the way up. This was after I turned the steering wheel 180 degrees. Shocked, I turned the wheel back 180 degrees and dropped the box down the whopping 3/4 inch to line up with the box bolt holes. Steering shave must have fallen back in place cuz its been driving for the past 4 days without any lights, etc.
The nut, got a long box wrench and put my feet against the frame and gave it all I got with leather gloves on. Guess its tight enough.
Took the truck in today for life time allighnment and discovered driver front caliper hanging up cuz its all the way out due to pad material down to nill. I know its off topic but new pads/calipers/hardware/pins coming tomorrow.
Oh, took my calipers to the old pitman and seems like there is a big and small end for the splined hole. That thing may have a taper to it thus why it may be such a bear to get off.
Have fun! Its worth it though, nice and tight steering.
2005 2500 CrewCab 4x4
Banks cat/half back exhaust
|05-29-2010, 05:09 AM||eBay Motors #22 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2010
Yeah I have to replace my idler arm and pitman arm I swear the front end
on these trucks are complete shit times 1000 when turning left or right you can feel the joint slip on the pitman arm and it knocks like a bastard. I dont have a air compressor so should I just pay someone to replace them or
torture myself by doing it on my own.
|05-29-2010, 05:17 AM||eBay Motors #23 (permalink)|
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Beer Tent Capital of the World
Of course cutting it off with the die grinder the second time was alot easier
2003 Chevy 2500hd crew cab 4x4, D/A
Just a few aftermarket goodies
|12-07-2010, 07:25 PM||eBay Motors #24 (permalink)|
|01-17-2015, 01:43 PM||eBay Motors #25 (permalink)|
Join Date: Mar 2010
I just replaced, Pitman Arm, Idler Arm, Idler Arm Bracket, and Both inner and outer tire rods on both sides. It is amazing how much replacing these parts brings life back into the truck. The steering is back to new again. I was able to replace the pitman arm with out having to take the Steering Box out of the truck.
When replacing the pitman arm, I first tried to get the pitman arm removing tool on the arm by pulling the steering box forward. After over an hour, I almost gave up, then realized the steering box can be pushed towards the back of the truck, as soon as I moved it, the removal tool fit right on. Using a 3/4" impact gun the pitman arm came right off.
|01-18-2015, 01:08 PM||eBay Motors #26 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2014
you could just start bumping current posts if you want post count....... 4 years old dude.
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.6L LB7
Allison Transmission (stock)
Banks six gun | Banks intake | Fabtech Tierods | ARP head studs | Kryptonite UCA | PPE Blue placebo valve | Batmo lagwheel| Red Head Gear box