Idler/Pitman Arm removal process - Page 3 - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:59 PM   eBay Motors  #21 (permalink)
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I read a few threads about this subject before doing mine. Here is how it went, idler came off with very little trouble while leaving center link in truck still connected to pitman arm. A week or so later I attempted the pitman arm. One thread said to use a cut off wheel and cut it off in line with the splines? I did, but I sure as heck was not going to cut into the splined shaft or cut/melt the seal on the shaft either. Well, 3 cuts later and that python was not coming off. Ok, other thread said to leave one bolt in (lose) in the steering box, shift it to get a puller on it, and pull it off. Sorry, no room to get puller in there to pull the arm off.

Finally, I pulled the final 3rd bolt out of the box and shifted the box up as far as I could to get puller on the arm. Started to attempt pulling procedure with nice long box wrench. Uhhhhh, thats a no go. So got the impact out and pulled the trigger. Nothing! Waited until compressor built up fo full PSI and gave it a go again. Finally that pitman arm came off!

Now, I discovered that the steering shaft came out somewhere when I pushed the box all the way up. This was after I turned the steering wheel 180 degrees. Shocked, I turned the wheel back 180 degrees and dropped the box down the whopping 3/4 inch to line up with the box bolt holes. Steering shave must have fallen back in place cuz its been driving for the past 4 days without any lights, etc.

The nut, got a long box wrench and put my feet against the frame and gave it all I got with leather gloves on. Guess its tight enough.

Took the truck in today for life time allighnment and discovered driver front caliper hanging up cuz its all the way out due to pad material down to nill. I know its off topic but new pads/calipers/hardware/pins coming tomorrow.

Oh, took my calipers to the old pitman and seems like there is a big and small end for the splined hole. That thing may have a taper to it thus why it may be such a bear to get off.

Have fun! Its worth it though, nice and tight steering.
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Old 05-29-2010, 05:09 AM   eBay Motors  #22 (permalink)
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knock knock

Yeah I have to replace my idler arm and pitman arm I swear the front end
on these trucks are complete shit times 1000 when turning left or right you can feel the joint slip on the pitman arm and it knocks like a bastard. I dont have a air compressor so should I just pay someone to replace them or
torture myself by doing it on my own.
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Old 05-29-2010, 05:17 AM   eBay Motors  #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklab314 View Post
Yeah I have to replace my idler arm and pitman arm I swear the front end
on these trucks are complete shit times 1000 when turning left or right you can feel the joint slip on the pitman arm and it knocks like a bastard. I dont have a air compressor so should I just pay someone to replace them or
torture myself by doing it on my own.
You do not need an air compressor, just makes it a little easier. The first one I did, I just pulled the gear box right out. It is only 3 bold that hold it to the frame, and one bolt that holds the lower steering shaft on. Then pull the 2 hydro hoses off the top. Put the thing on the work bench and you can work on it.

Of course cutting it off with the die grinder the second time was alot easier
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Old 12-07-2010, 07:25 PM   eBay Motors  #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacklab314 View Post
Yeah I have to replace my idler arm and pitman arm I swear the front end
on these trucks are complete shit times 1000 when turning left or right you can feel the joint slip on the pitman arm and it knocks like a bastard. I dont have a air compressor so should I just pay someone to replace them or
torture myself by doing it on my own.
Replaced the idler arm at 180,000 miles and finally am needing the pitman arm replaced at 246,000 miles. Everything was tight and up until needing them changed individually, so I've had good luck!
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