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EGR solenoid faulty? symptoms?

18K views 19 replies 4 participants last post by  Dakine 
#1 ·
I tried to search the forum, but since the changes about a week ago, now I just get a blank page that says loading and never returns any results. A google search found this thread for me which seems to match my symptoms a lot closer.

http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/0...012-p0087-low-fuel-rail-pressure-again-6.html

Truck would intermittently go into some kind of low power mode, in fact the more I stepped on the accelerator the worse it got, letting up on the pedal and it would start to gain a little power and shift again up into next gear, would never go over 40 mph while doing this.

No CEL
No codes at all to the OBD2
Turning the truck off and back on clears the condition and happy motoring until it happens again. this happened about 4 times within a month. I think it was always in the afternoons, in the thread above I read about warm fuel being returned but I don't think that's going to be my problem because I live in SoCal and it's pretty mild here, plus I have a fairly short commute, only about 10 miles.

So I was thinking after reading that thread and others that the previous owner may have had a custom tune that was misbehaving and I had the dealership reflash the ECM to stock.

Within two days the problem came back only now with new symptoms.

the CEL light came on, and stayed on.
turning the truck off and back on did NOT reset the situation anymore
The code P0087 was picked up on OBD2 (which is how I found the thread linked above)

Took the truck back to the dealer armed finally with some real data on what the truck is doing.

Dealer tells me the wiring has been spliced and looks like the previous owner had some kind of mods put in place.

but back to the subject of the thread, they are saying they are getting a 2nd code, and that the EGR solenoid is bad, and that's going to run $700

When I searched on EGR solenoid symptoms none of that seems to really match. Even when I was having the problem, it wasn't rough idle, there was no pinging, and the truck never stalled. Poor acceleration is the only thing that matches.

Would EGR solenoid create this condition? Would it be intermittent before a ECM reflash and then very constant afterwards?

Dealer also says now the P0087 code is cleared and that it's back to driving perfectly normal. (I did have one full good day between the ECM reflash and the problem coming back and staying on)

any suggestions? again I apologize if this is covered in depth somewhere, I don't know why search seems to give me no results at all.
 
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#4 ·
picked up the truck form the dealer, didn't even have to pay the diagnose fee (we both agree I'm going to be back, it's just when)

So they had the truck over the weekend, yesterday the Diesel tech goes to check it and the CEL is clear, and it's running great! it's only producing the new EGR solenoid code.

Please help with my questions on the options... The way I see it, I can either do an EGR delete and call it a day or spend a lot of money I don't want to spend on that solenoid and any future EGR repairs.

  • I'm going to guess EGR delete is not California compliant? Is that true?
  • If I do EGR delete is that something that emissions stations are even able to detect? (here in CA I don't think they will even test a vehicle if the CEL is on, and I think they require 100 miles since CEL reset, but I'm not sure how they would track that, perhaps the DIC or the OBD2 diagnostics can give them that info?)
  • If I do EGR delete am I obligated now to buy/install a tune kit? because if I don't wouldn't my CEL be on constantly? I don't want to run a tune that would be far from stock, and I'm not even remotely interested in trying to customize that myself, if I go this route I'm thinking do the right thing, ask the professionals and take their advice and use only a very basic tune mod for perhaps some increased mileage but definitely nothing that could in any way decrease overall engine life.

If I am going to need some kind of tuning package, cost estimates and pro/cons on brands is appreciated!


Since I just bought this, I have 2 years before I need to worry about smog test, but I need to know what the details are about going this route. Since everything I'm reading so far is pointing to EGR actually being hazardous to engine life, it seems like a good thing get rid of that money sink and bypass the sucker.

THanks!
 
#5 · (Edited)
picked up the truck form the dealer, didn't even have to pay the diagnose fee (we both agree I'm going to be back, it's just when)

So they had the truck over the weekend, yesterday the Diesel tech goes to check it and the CEL is clear, and it's running great! it's only producing the new EGR solenoid code.

Please help with my questions on the options... The way I see it, I can either do an EGR delete and call it a day or spend a lot of money I don't want to spend on that solenoid and any future EGR repairs.

Install a single tune with a block plate and cut the tab off.
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  • I'm going to guess EGR delete is not California compliant? Is that true?
Yes it is, the tuners are aware of this, you can install a block plate and cut the tab off. Problem is California is implementing the STAR system in some cities and it checks readiness monitors in the ECM and there are about 100 or more different ways to disable them.
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  • If I do EGR delete is that something that emissions stations are even able to detect? (here in CA I don't think they will even test a vehicle if the CEL is on, and I think they require 100 miles since CEL reset, but I'm not sure how they would track that, perhaps the DIC or the OBD2 diagnostics can give them that info?)
Readiness monitors are checked with the STAR system via the OBD-II port.
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  • If I do EGR delete am I obligated now to buy/install a tune kit? because if I don't wouldn't my CEL be on constantly? I don't want to run a tune that would be far from stock, and I'm not even remotely interested in trying to customize that myself, if I go this route I'm thinking do the right thing, ask the professionals and take their advice and use only a very basic tune mod for perhaps some increased mileage but definitely nothing that could in any way decrease overall engine life.
Correct, no test will be performed if the CEL is on, 90% of the time it is emissions related. If they use the STAR system a DSP5 tune cannot read the VIN or anything else, you need a stock single tune with the emissions disabled



If I am going to need some kind of tuning package, cost estimates and pro/cons on brands is appreciated!

ATP, PPEI, Moonshine, Motor-Ops many of them are vendors here.


Since I just bought this, I have 2 years before I need to worry about smog test, but I need to know what the details are about going this route. Since everything I'm reading so far is pointing to EGR actually being hazardous to engine life, it seems like a good thing get rid of that money sink and bypass the sucker.

Leave it in place and just use a block plate.

THanks!
...
 
#6 · (Edited)
I tried to search the forum, but since the changes about a week ago, now I just get a blank page that says loading and never returns any results. A google search found this thread for me which seems to match my symptoms a lot closer.......any suggestions? again I apologize if this is covered in depth somewhere, I don't know why search seems to give me no results at all.
You may want to try and switch back to the 'classic' view, page bottom-left drop down menu.

EGR issues usually result with loss of boost (no power), more noticeable if under load pulling, and it'll blow smoke. Rear fender dirty?
Fuel limp (P0087) will do the same, only much greater... sluggish and lack of shift.

Step 1, change your fuel filter. Make sure it's fresh. Lack of fuel will make the other issue seem much greater than it is.

Installing a block plate on your LBZ, will not throw a hard DTC (SES light), requiring no tune to alleviate. Only occasionally you'll see a code stored, if you happen to check for other codes.

Moving to where you don't have your address ending with CA could help also. :D
 
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#8 ·
You may want to try and switch back to the 'classic' view, page bottom-left drop down menu.

EGR issues usually result with loss of boost (no power), more noticeable if under load pulling, and it'll blow smoke. Rear fender dirty?
Fuel limp (P0087) will do the same, only much greater... sluggish and lack of shift. -- Yeah its nuts when that's happening.

Step 1, change your fuel filter. Make sure it's fresh. Lack of fuel will make the other issue seem much greater than it is. -- Okay, I also need to follow up on some advice from another thread and get the water filter for putting next to the Raptor lift pump.

Installing a block plate on your LBZ, will not throw a hard DTC (SES light), requiring no tune to alleviate. Only occasionally you'll see a code stored, if you happen to check for other codes. --Perfect thanks!

Moving to where you don't have your address ending with CA could help also. :D
-- If I had a dollar for every time someone said that ;) The state is beautiful, but so many of the people here are nuts lol
 
#13 ·
Thanks, no I hadn't seen either of those yet.

Originally Posted by cherokeechief
also on teh 0087 codes, we had 2 trucks giving it, tried the shim kit, with no luck, took it in for a lift pump, found that would not work, it was the cp3, 13000 psi instead of 25000 psi. but that did not help. turns out it was the fuel injectors leaking to the tank. there is a solinoid on the injectors and it was allowing fuel to go to the tank and cause low fuel rail pressure. got them replaced, and no more problems
I'm curious about a couple things mentioned here, from what I've read so far, fuel returning to the tank is by design however it can also cause problems from temp rising in the tank which affects the viscosity... and maybe it was just the way that was worded but it seems to imply that fuel shouldn't be returning to the tank?

I'm concerned about injectors being a cause, aren't those spendy? it also seems to me that in one of the threads I've read so far, someone was talking about the flow returning to the tank could be measured and that would help determine if it was the cause or at least a contributing factor. So many ml's flowing back to the tank at 2500 rpm I think they specified and then anything grossly above or below that flow rate is a problem.

if they come back and tell me it's definitely injectors what am I looking at for options? are there rebuilt? is new the only way to safely go? what is labor for something like that going to cost?

Are injectors considered a lubricated part?
 
#14 ·
Dealer called and said they've isolated it to the Fuel Pressure Regulator and it's going to cost over $1000 to fix, 450 for part, 550 for labor and then with tax it's going to be around 1100. I guess if the custom tune that the previous owner had was able to override whatever is failing with that then it makes some sense.

They are also still reading codes for the EGR and also the thermostat thinks the outside temp is 40 degrees on a nice sunny 75 degree day, but my inexpensive OBD2 scanner doesn't pick those codes up, maybe they aren't being sent to OBD2 port and are only something that the dealer or anyone with a high end scanner can read?
 
#15 ·
That is highway robbery. You can buy that part brand new for under $200 all day. Installation is a pain but not worth $550 to me. There is no way to override or trick the ecm into thinking that it is working properly if it is failing.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
#17 ·
Yea I hear you. If you are not able to do the work yourself then you don't have many options. Hopefully they stand by their word if it doesn't fix it.

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#18 · (Edited)
now they are telling me that with the fuel pressure regulator installed and delivering the fuel properly that the injectors are failing. they say 3 are bad and 4 are borderline.

I wish I could rename this thread because the information from diagnostics and the dealer keeps changing.

Can the custom tune that the previous owner had create a problem with injectors? or mask the problem?

From just a real cursory look online so far, it seems like injectors can be up around $500 each, maybe somewhat cheaper for Bosch remanufactured. how much labor would be associated with having the injectors replaced?
 
#19 ·
Only new ones Bosch makes are for new engines/trucks.
They are all Reman by Bosch.
$350/ea or 8/$2549 from LDS...+$100/ea core charge.
Lincoln Diesel Specialties said:
Description
All 6.6 LBZ Duramax injectors were originally designed by Bosch and they manufacture all the parts. Therefore, when you purchase OEM Bosch Reman Injectors, you can be assured that you are going to get quality above and beyond any other manufacturer.

These Injectors are exactly what you can find at any Chevrolet Dealer and they come with the standard 12 month/Unlimited mile warranty.

We include the injector instillation kit FREE of charge when you purchase a set of 8 injectors
OEM Bosch Reman LBZ Fuel Injectors
 
#20 · (Edited)
Only new ones Bosch makes are for new engines/trucks.
They are all Reman by Bosch.
$350/ea or 8/$2549 from LDS...+$100/ea core charge.

OEM Bosch Reman LBZ Fuel Injectors
Thanks!

any idea on the labor involved with this? if I have 3 bad injectors for sure, but it's only 1 hour of labor to get stuff out of the way to install new one's spending an additional $1000 (the extra 4 that they say are borderline) right now sounds like something that could wait until later?

ETA:

hmm, I found this thread: http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/0...wertrain/100055-labor-injector-install-2.html

and this post has me wondering... 8-10 hours. but the way that sounds is like a pair of guys doing it, so I wonder how much more hours if it's just one guy. I don't have a suitable garage for doing this myself, nor do I have any experience whatsoever working on diesel engines. If just standard tools are needed I probably have most of that covered, but still this seems like maybe an ambitious job to take on for my first swing at it. And I'm still on the hook for the $1000 fuel pressure regulator they just installed. ugh.

our area is fairly competive so prices are normaly a little lower,mosts times it takes us roughly 8-10hrs to do a set of 8 injectors but our fastest time is 6hrs from tear down to test drive..that wasnt me that was my brother n law who works for me..he's good.
 
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