i just got mine as well and was wondering about the same things. i like the look of the lift but not sure i want to spend the money or sacrifice the performance / ride. has anyone noticed any adverse affects from just cranking the T bars?
__________________
2008 Silverado 2500HD LTZ
6.6L Diesel (LMM), CrewCab, Shortbed Z71
4" MBRP Exhaust with 5" tip (DPF deleted & EGR blocked), Quadzilla Stealth 2, Autometer Cobalt Boost and EGT gauges on the pillar, 15% window tint with vent visors, TruckChamp black bars, Extang Tonneau cover..... and more to come.....
Cranking the bars will make the ride stiffer. It puts more twist on the bars, no matter if you crank the stock ones or use new keys. Also your tires will look like there more in on the bottom than the top, making your tires wear faster. Trust me, I went both routes on the bars and you feel every bump on the road.
As far as lift kits go, choose RCD. The ride quality is amazing on them! Way better than stock. It makes the truck feel like your riding in a caddi. Also, all the materials in the kit are the strongest materials, and braces your front end better than stock.
Go with the lift, hands down.
I leveled mine using the stock keys. I have 285's and I noticed no difference in ride quality. I might upgrade the shocks to Bilstein at some point but that's just 'cause I like 'em.
__________________ 2002 4X4 GMC 2500HD Duramax Crew Cab, PPE boost valve, Edge w/attitude and 285's - leveled nicely without aftermarket keys, HID HI-LO and Fog.
Cranking the bars will make the ride stiffer. It puts more twist on the bars, no matter if you crank the stock ones or use new keys. Also your tires will look like there more in on the bottom than the top, making your tires wear faster. Trust me, I went both routes on the bars and you feel every bump on the road.
As far as lift kits go, choose RCD. The ride quality is amazing on them! Way better than stock. It makes the truck feel like your riding in a caddi. Also, all the materials in the kit are the strongest materials, and braces your front end better than stock.
Go with the lift, hands down.
As you crank you do not add more twist due to the other side pushing down on the torsion bar and raising the truck. The bad ride does not come from the torsion bar it self, it is a reflection of the drop out travel be reduced because you have added more pre-load/cranked. So the key to maintain a nice ride is not to over max out the travel.
__________________ 2008 Chevy 3500HD Dually LTZ <<< Clink on link to see truck.
Cognito 2-3 leveling kit, HD tie rods, Steering braces, Idler pivot, Front & Rear Sway Bar, Bistein's frt & rear, Sulastic shackles, Bags, Toyo MT 295/70r17 w/2" spacers, AFE stg2, MBRP 5" turbo back w/RBP back 6" tip, EFI Live by Duramaxtuner.com, Nexus gauges, Nicktane fuel filter, TTS Dual pumps & pick up, Transgo JR, MagHytec Trans & Diff pans, Titan 62gal fuel tank, Amp boards, 8000k HID Headlights and fogs, Drawtite Sig.24k 5er.
6-7-08 “400hp Fun Tune” >> 414hp./786tq.
6-7-08 “LMM08_08_HOT_6.07.08_Highboost” >> 440hp./805tq.
Mine is cranked all the way up from the previous owner. You can see the weird angle and added stress on the ball joints just looking at it sitting there. I'm going to return mine to stock until I can get a cognito kit and shocks to fix the bad geometry. All I know is mine rides like I've got cinder blocks for tires up front.
__________________ Brian
04.5 LLY Chevy 4X4 LT Crew Cab White with Tan Leather
PPE Standard level 3 (+120hp 200 ft lbs)
Kodiak mouthpiece
4" MBRP downpipe back Aluminized
Autometer Cobalt pyro and boost gauges mounted above rear view mirror
Truxedo Duece Tonneau
06 style leveled towing mirrors, 265 75 R16 BFG AT
T Bars cranked all the way (bad) Thanks to Tyler at Meyer Performance for all his help and fast service.
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