F@!% oh dear I know............
Already thought about that and makes me cringe so I try not too.
Will hopefully enjoy it for awhile before I start spending some money again!!
We will see how hard it works the ole D'max with my 35's and all the toys behind it?
Sometimes I think about just selling all the crap and making life a bit simpler.............but I wouldn't be happy then either
07 Classic LBZ 2500HD CC Silver Birch Metallic Performance EFI LIVE DSP5 Idaho Rob's Magic, ADII 165 lift pump, 5in flo-pro exhaust, ADP DP, Transgo Jr. shift kit & Transynd swap, Autometer Boost and Pyro Guages, EGR BLOCK, PCV reroute, resonator cap, PPE Airbox MOD Suspension Tuff Country 6" with Moog TieRods, Billsteins, 20in Helo, MT FCII 35's, Cognito full travel air bags w/Firestone Air Rite controls Towing Drawtite Activator III, Anderson Drop Rapid Hitch, B&W companion slide 5er hitch Appearance.....just because Linex Bedliner, billet grill, Wheel-to-wheel nerf bars, AstroStart, HIDs "all on", Denali Door Handles, Colormatch visors and bugsheild On the Shop Floor New Trans cooler lines, Redline PS fluid flush
Subs for pics and other cool shit.
Ive always been fascinated with towing a goosneck thats lifted. And ive always been intrested in towing 2 trailers
I think itd be hella fun
2007.5 LMM LTZ CCSB SRW 4X4: 10 inch JL subs in a probox under backseat: Hifonics 2500 watt AMP: Kenwood DDX790: Infinitie speakers: Weathertech liners: Camo woodgrain: Camo air vents: Denalli cup holder: LED interior lights: ISS Pro: Spyder smoked tails-3rd brake light: Retro Solutions reverse bulbs: recon smoked cab lights: Rigid D2 on front ranch hand: Lows fogs 55 watt 8k HID'S: S&B intake: 3" downpipe: 4" exhaust: 8 inch black tip: Transgo shift kit: SDP EGR delete: LB7 up pipe: PCV reroute: All on headlight mod: EFI live from Rob 20,60,90,120,150 DSP5 keylock: Flashed by J.stanton2009 on his V2 : Cognito UCA'S: Cognito braces: FFR Tie rods: Bilstein stabilizer: Stock 17's on bald 265's: leveled a bit
It's fun until you get in a spot and have to back up.
just be smart. don't get into a spot and then think about how to get out. on my 12' rear trailer, I put a jack that has a wheel that swivels. this way if I just have to get in some where that I need to back up, I just unhook the back trailer, ( takes 2 minutes to unhook ), and then come back and get as close as I can with my son spotting. then I just roll the trailer up the 5th wheel and hook it up. not really that big of a deal.
btw, it helps taking off sum weight on the pin hitch.
sold: 01 lb7 drw cclb 1 ton 4x4
GM DRW club member #95
15' srw ccsb 3500 Denali debadged, 35% tint on the front half glass and 5% over stock tint on the back half glass, line-x bed, leveled with cognito stage 3 with stock keys, 20x12 fuel throttle wheels, 285/55/20 Mickey Thompson atz p3 tires, 5000k 55w hid headlights, led fogs, amp auto steps, 90 gal transfer fuel tank, b&w ball hitch, B&W companion 5th wheel hitch, firestone bags, kicker 400w upgrade
scary what some manufactuer's put under there. I make all my own hitches for my fifth wheels, purchased a new camper this year, and thought to myself you know.... i seriously do not feel like crawling under this camper to put a hitch on " TERRIBLE JOB " so i allowed my RV dealer to farm it out to a local weld shop.... told them i needed it "class 3" or 5000LB capacity. SURE! so what do i get back? the most disgusting job i have ever seen in my life, pulled her with that hitch anyway to the lake because of course it was finished 3 days before our trip, came home with it bent, so i cut it off and took it down to the weld shop and placed it on the weld shop managers desk and thanked him for wasting my time. Got my money back though. Not to mention they welded on the frame "across the grain" which is a HUGE no no... just for everyone insight its my opinion that EVERY hitch needs two crossmembers to prevent cantilever, and allow the front tube to distribute the lateral forces to the rear tube. Just be careful with your hitches and monitor them, because if a manufacturer says rated for 3000LBS they mean it, 1LB over would likely rip the hitch off ! i find it sickening how they do everything in their power to make things as light as possible
because if a manufacturer says rated for 3000LBS they mean it, 1LB over would likely rip the hitch off ! i find it sickening how they do everything in their power to make things as light as possible
if that is the case towing 1 pound over max gross for your 5er and the pin box would rip off, or the axles would snap.. I know they are trying to give us a product that we can afford, but you get what you pay for, not the other way around.. the engineers designed a tolerance into their products knowing full well we will exceed
2006 LBZ ,gmax 6, AD2, DP and 4 inch,, nicktane,reroute,hid,gauges, ATP tuning, airbags,onboard compressor, superglide, PPE box