Does anyone know if there is a way to align our work truck so as not to mess up the 7 new Toyo H/T's we just got for it?
I was thinking of putting like three or four thousand pounds in the bed and aligning it? the front tires cup like mad. Part of it was the junk factory shocks which will be replaced with Bilsteins when we put the new tires on but I think part of if it is the alignment as well. Should I set the toe at something besides factory specs? Camber Caster?
Any ideas? The truck pulls a 48ft enclosed car trailer.
__________________ (My Truck) Black 2008 Chevy Crew Cab Short Bed
4x4 Z71 LTZ LMM
Speedliner, WeatherTech FloorLiners, B&W Turnover Ball
(Work Truck/Tow Rig) Black 2005 Chevy Crew Cab Long Bed Dually
2WD LT LLY
Transfer Flow 100gal in bed tank, B&W Turnover Ball, Edge/Attitude Level 2 all the time, 4inch Turbo Back Exhaust with Cat Delete
Does anyone know if there is a way to align our work truck so as not to mess up the 7 new Toyo H/T's we just got for it?
I was thinking of putting like three or four thousand pounds in the bed and aligning it? the front tires cup like mad. Part of it was the junk factory shocks which will be replaced with Bilsteins when we put the new tires on but I think part of if it is the alignment as well. Should I set the toe at something besides factory specs? Camber Caster?
Any ideas? The truck pulls a 48ft enclosed car trailer.
Cupping on the outer and inner on both front tires on a Dually is indicative of a Heavy Haul Braking issue, not alignment. You can try to increase the output to the trailer brakes for some relief. Noticing the ‘feathering’ on the tread means it’s time to rotate.
Good news though, since I installed the Ride-Rite Air Springs on the rear, no more cupped wear on the front tires, which I hope, translates to longer tire mileage life.
What kind of weights are you pulling loaded? With that 48’r, you should run these anyway. If it’s the regular dually (wide track rear) you need model 2250. if it’s the cab/chassis dually (narrow track rear) you need model 2249.
Less than $250 for the ‘No Drill’ kit, including freight, they only take 2 hrs to install with no vehicle lifting required.
The cupping is in the middle of the tread though? Will those air bags you suggested work with a B&W turnover ball installed? I believe it scales at a little more then 24,000lb?
I thought the cupping was from the truck always riding nose high and bouncing several times over ever bump in the road?
__________________ (My Truck) Black 2008 Chevy Crew Cab Short Bed
4x4 Z71 LTZ LMM
Speedliner, WeatherTech FloorLiners, B&W Turnover Ball
(Work Truck/Tow Rig) Black 2005 Chevy Crew Cab Long Bed Dually
2WD LT LLY
Transfer Flow 100gal in bed tank, B&W Turnover Ball, Edge/Attitude Level 2 all the time, 4inch Turbo Back Exhaust with Cat Delete
The wear will differ from tread pattern of different brand tires, because of the stance of the Revos I’m running, it starts to show on the edges.
Check my Sig., they’re installed away from the B &W, and fit just fine. Unlike Fjords, where everything is in the way.
Before:
After:
Take the empty ‘Wet’ weight of your truck at 7.3k lbs, add the extra 100 gals of fuel and the pin weight of a fiver at 24k lbs, that brings you to 11.5k lbs. If it’s a GN trailer the added pin weight will bring you in at 12.7k lbs. Your GVWR is 11.4k lbs, so your over by 1300 lbs and That’s before adding gear and people to the truck.
Even with the GN at 16k lbs, you would still see this abnormal wear on the front tires.
With 10-plys, You needed Air Springs long ago, and it probably added to the failure of the shocks. Your setup is the same as mine, if you stick your head in the wheel well and view the lower front most bolt of the B&W, you’ll probably see that the end is ground off by the leaf spring contact, like this one is.
You’ll be pleasantly amazed of the improved ride, handling and braking of the load with these installed, plus, with the truck setting level, there is no appearance of how heavy the rig is and the Weight guys tend to ignore you.
The mfr suggestion for the air pressure ratio to the tonnage is over stated. Figure your pin weight, which is 15%/Fiver or 20%/GN and divide by 100 for the ballpark range of comfort to inflate to.
Don't preload the pressure as it changes with increased load. With the load on, THEN inflate to the proper pressure. Bring 'em up to 50psi loaded, then check again with the trailer off and the pressure will be 24psi. Bag pressure increases as the load applyed increases, without adding air.
Very little volume of air is needed to change the pressure on these, a bicycle pump used is not out of the question, but I use a compressor mounted in the trailer tool box.
__________________ 2005 Chev Duramax/Allison 3500LS DRW Crew Cab
CAI / LMM intake OH kit, Sulastic springs, Bilsteins,
B&W 30K-Turnover GN, Putnam XDR 15K, Ride-Rite Air Springs, A/T Revos.
Pulling 10 tons daily.
2006 Chev 6.0L/4L80e 3500WT DRW Ex-Cab
9 'Flat/GN, Ride-Rite Air Springs, A/T Revos.
Pulling 6 tons daily.
"The difference between liberals and cannibals, is that cannibals eat only their enemies." -Lyndon B.Johnson 100th
Last edited by Hook'em_Horns! : 09-03-2008 at 07:37 PM.
Great info Hook-em'!!!!! This one should be a Sticky!!!!
__________________ TRUCK ONE: '03 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4X4 Ext. Cab Short Bed LB7, K&N Intk AFE Fltr, 4in exhaust, Banks Six-gun w/ power PDA and Speed Loader, FASS Fuel System, 6-Spd Manual Tranny w/ Custom Ceramic Dual Disk Clutch By: South Bend, Pyro and Boost Gauges in the A-Pillar
TRUCK TWO: '02 GMC Sierra 3500 4X4 Ext. Cab Long Bed LB7 Allison; Stock for now but will be upgraded before too long.
THE WIFE"S VEHICLE: 2008 Kia Sportage, Fully loaded...
Great info Hook-em'!!!!! This one should be a Sticky!!!!
Thanks!
Another mention:
I found putting the nozzles in the license plate on the stock bumper was a bit cumbersome trying to fill and check.
I took a piece of aluminum angle from 'The Depot', ground the edges down and made an 'Air Docking Station' tucked under the bumper and hard to notice, even when pointed out. Picked up an inexpensive Dial face style gauge at WallyWorld for a couple of bucks that will read lower pressure increments more precisely than a tire gauge.
__________________ 2005 Chev Duramax/Allison 3500LS DRW Crew Cab
CAI / LMM intake OH kit, Sulastic springs, Bilsteins,
B&W 30K-Turnover GN, Putnam XDR 15K, Ride-Rite Air Springs, A/T Revos.
Pulling 10 tons daily.
2006 Chev 6.0L/4L80e 3500WT DRW Ex-Cab
9 'Flat/GN, Ride-Rite Air Springs, A/T Revos.
Pulling 6 tons daily.
"The difference between liberals and cannibals, is that cannibals eat only their enemies." -Lyndon B.Johnson 100th
Last edited by Hook'em_Horns! : 09-03-2008 at 07:20 PM.
__________________ TRUCK ONE: '03 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4X4 Ext. Cab Short Bed LB7, K&N Intk AFE Fltr, 4in exhaust, Banks Six-gun w/ power PDA and Speed Loader, FASS Fuel System, 6-Spd Manual Tranny w/ Custom Ceramic Dual Disk Clutch By: South Bend, Pyro and Boost Gauges in the A-Pillar
TRUCK TWO: '02 GMC Sierra 3500 4X4 Ext. Cab Long Bed LB7 Allison; Stock for now but will be upgraded before too long.
THE WIFE"S VEHICLE: 2008 Kia Sportage, Fully loaded...
I have installed about 5-6 of the no drill kits on srw 2500 and they are really easy to install all of our drivers are really happy with them we have 10x8 ft flat beds some times loaded with 4-6 motors and 3-5 trans and other misc parts with out any failures the only way ours have bad tire wear is when the front wheele bearings go bad
__________________ 2002 CREWCAB DUELLY 4X4 6SP MANUAL WITH SUPERCHIPS,SBC single mass/disk flywheel,ppe boost valve, K&N , MUFFLER DELEATE OPP. AND CROME FLAME GRILL
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