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Old 01-17-2013, 09:20 AM   eBay Motors  #1 (permalink)
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Built trans install

Buying a crate transmission next week and doing the pump rub while it's out... trying to get my ducks in a row on this install as it is my first...

1.) What is the best method for flushing the trans cooler?
2.) Should I be doing the re-learn on the hottest tune/ how to relearn the right way?
3.) Are there any other things I need to cover before pulling the old and putting in the new?... really wanna make sure everything is done right since those damn things ain't cheap. Also probably gonna buy the better lines to the cooler anyway just to be on the safe side
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:47 AM   eBay Motors  #2 (permalink)
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Who's Tranny are you putting in?
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:50 AM   eBay Motors  #3 (permalink)
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suncoast... they are the only one remotely close to me and even then my truck can't be down long (work) so I had to buy a crate from somewhere... bout my online reasonable option. I think it's a good choice though, heard good things about them
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:01 AM   eBay Motors  #4 (permalink)
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my truck wasnt even down a day dustin had mine done in about 6 hours or so
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:30 AM   eBay Motors  #5 (permalink)
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Depending on the mileage, it might be worth while putting a new cooler in. I think mike l might make a over sized one.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:47 AM   eBay Motors  #6 (permalink)
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I blew air through the lines with a rag over the air hose to drain cooler into a bucket. Relearn on your tune that you will be daily driving with, reset taps and drive normal, then do some 30% throttle accel through all shifts, then 50%, 75%, and WOT. Again through all shifts don't skip any. Do some thing with truck in tow haul. Taking front part of exhaust off makes it a lot easier, leave transfer case on if you have a trans jack, otherwise take it off, and be warned with transfer case off the trans is MASSIVELY FRONT HEAVY. Seen people jack from the middle and it just tips till it slams on the ground, the tc is very heavy and full of fluid, so make sure to support the front better and put a hand over the converter so it doesn't fall out as you pull the trans away from the flywheel. Also to get to tc bolts go through starter hole. And re filling procedure of the trans is fill till full mark, start vehicle and apply brake, run through all gears PRND321 waiting till you feel the pull, don't let it roll, pull it back into park and turn off, refill to full (should be low now). Start and idle for a minute or two, check for any leaks, crawl around and take a good look, check fluid levels again. Take for a very relaxed test drive and come back home, re check fluid levels, leave dipstick out for a few minutes while idling in case of any air in the lines, check, fill if needed. Enjoy


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Old 01-17-2013, 11:01 AM   eBay Motors  #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daword2011 View Post
Taking front part of exhaust off makes it a lot easier, leave transfer case on if you have a trans jack, otherwise take it off, and be warned with transfer case off the trans is MASSIVELY FRONT HEAVY. Seen people jack from the middle and it just tips till it slams on the ground, the tc is very heavy and full of fluid, so make sure to support the front better and put a hand over the converter so it doesn't fall out as you pull the trans away from the flywheel.
Yeah, if you want to mess around with taking the torsion bar crossmember out, unloading the torsion bars, and make an extra 2 hours of work for yourself, leave the transfer case on. Otherwise, take the transfer case off first.

With the converter in, and the trans on a trans jack that is positioned in basically the center of the pan, the trans is almost perfectly balanced. I dont know how you can say its MASSIVELY FRONT HEAVY.....its not....... have the trans jack positioned/angled properly, dont be an idiot, and you wont have a problem. In fact, with the transfer case still on, it will be very TAIL heavy and want to tip backwards. Which is why I say DO NOT try to take the trans out as a whole assembly. Besides, you cant even get the whole thing out as one with the torsion bar crossmember in place anyways...as I said above.

When you take the converter out, the trans gets a little tail heavy, but not dangerously so.

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run through all gears PRND321 waiting till you feel the pull, don't let it roll,
Why do you have to run it through "all the gears"? How is moving the shift lever to 3, 2, 1 is any different than just putting the shifter in drive?

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Old 01-17-2013, 11:15 AM   eBay Motors  #8 (permalink)
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Thanks guys! I've been thinking about what to do over lunch and I had talked to Kory Willis a while back about doing it... I'm seriously thinking about scheduling a "business trip" to one of our stores in Lake Charles and dropping my truck off and letting him do the build and install so he can do everything the right way instead of me second guessing myself and wondering if I relearned and did everything the right way... and iirc I think his price would probably be better by the time I paid for shipping and dealing with the core crap...

Think I should buy the crate or call Kory up and have him build me one and do the install?

And on the cooler it's got 19x,xxx miles on it, think it needs replacing?
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:01 PM   eBay Motors  #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duratothemax View Post
Yeah, if you want to mess around with taking the torsion bar crossmember out, unloading the torsion bars, and make an extra 2 hours of work for yourself, leave the transfer case on. Otherwise, take the transfer case off first.

With the converter in, and the trans on a trans jack that is positioned in basically the center of the pan, the trans is almost perfectly balanced. I dont know how you can say its MASSIVELY FRONT HEAVY.....its not....... have the trans jack positioned/angled properly, dont be an idiot, and you wont have a problem. In fact, with the transfer case still on, it will be very TAIL heavy and want to tip backwards. Which is why I say DO NOT try to take the trans out as a whole assembly. Besides, you cant even get the whole thing out as one with the torsion bar crossmember in place anyways...as I said above.

When you take the converter out, the trans gets a little tail heavy, but not dangerously so.



Why do you have to run it through "all the gears"? How is moving the shift lever to 3, 2, 1 is any different than just putting the shifter in drive?

Ben
Just what I have done with the shifter, it's just the first step to get the trans fluid all in the converter. As for the trans I have seen people with trans jacks start to lower the trans, it tips forward, tc falls out and hits the ground. Just from my experience, if we ever have to pick up an Allison then you can have the bell housing because it is a lot heavier than the tail with converter in.


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