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Leaking Transmission Cooler Lines

160K views 147 replies 71 participants last post by  68Ss 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Okay, I did the forum search and read through a lot of threads about home made fixes. Hasn't been any new threads in quite some time and never came across anyone that is actually marketing a fix. So...

I have one line leaking at the crimp. It is the line running into the radiator coming from the tranny. The other two are not leaking yet. So questions are:

Is anybody marketing a fix for this or do we all have to resort to factory replacement or a modification at the local hydraulics shop? What has been the preferred method of upgrade? I have seen people referring to push-lok, compression fittings, etc. What has everyone been using? Thanks in advance.

Travis

Click Here: http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/husker-diesel/78584-leaking-trans-cooler-lines.html
 
#109 ·
If its only a 10 mile round trip I would say, just check it before you leave the house, keep a little bit of spare tranny fluid with you, and add when needed until you get them fixed. What kind of kit are you going with ahduramax? Shoot too bad you arent a lil further North I would probably do for ya. Mine are just starting to leak, but not too bad yet, I am going to just get a kit and fix them when I have the trans pulled out for its rebuild.
 
#110 ·
For those of you who bought lines from a hydraulic store, what lengths did you have the lines cut?
 
#113 ·
Thanks!
 
#114 ·
Husker Diesel and Alligator Performance Kits look almost identical.
All Season Diesel looks to have braided hose.

Any feedback on the best of these 3 kits?

Thanks - need to replace my for the 2nd (and hopefully LAST) time.
 
#116 ·
Nope it's only on the 36K warranty. Only the guts of the powertrain are actually covered by it.

And GM is a son of a whore company just like all the others so they don't really give a shit about problems as long as they aren't a real huge important ones.
 
#117 ·
Crusher....

True they are not covered, however, mine were found to be leaking during my 50k service from my dealer. They were going to charge $500 to replace with new GM, however, when I told them this was a known problem with the GM lines and that I was going to go with an aftermarket repair, they did some research and ended up replacing them for free.

I bought this truck new from the dealership, so they took care of me...
 
#119 ·
What A PITA

Here's pics of the new crimps and hose that I had done to the factory metal lines, by a local guy. Cost $160 and really look good. Pic of my truck shows what a PITA it was to do. Nevertheless, I've got a permanent fix and didn't pay the dealer $468, just to do one.
 

Attachments

#120 ·
Well now it's my turn. 48K on my 2007 Classic and the lines are leaking. My tranny guy wants to put new GM lines back on so we might be going our separate ways on this project. Not putting the GM lines back on. That's the definition of insanity isn't it?

Laydback I'm interested in your approach of rebuilding the factory lines, but that probably means taking it to a shop that can both rebuild lines and do the install. Thanks to everyone posing about this.
 
#121 ·
I think it's definitely the approach. If you're not doing it yourself, I'd find the person capable of reworking the lines, and then have your mechanic remove them. I took mine off one evening after work. My wife dropped mine off after taking the kids to school, and the guy had them ready before the kids got out of school. At the point you're paying someone to change one, I'd imagine the labor wouldn't be much bad to go ahead and remove the other 2. After I got the hardest one reinstalled, the other 2 went in within a matter of minutes. I paid $40-$50 for a replacement hose that I returned, and I paid $160 to have all 3 redone, so that parts about the same. At least this way, the labor's only involved once, vs. doing one now, and then another goes out later, etc. Good Luck
 
#124 · (Edited)
Wow.... a year ago I was quoted $500 ish for the install, so $800+ does seem nuts, especially since it going to leak again somewhere down the line with the OEM parts. Go with one of the aftermarket options. They take way less time to install and they "fix" the problem.

:plane
 
#125 ·
Labor hours to replace lines:

Text Font Line Number Document


I think they were giving you a very high quote on the labor. But as others have said, do it yourself and get lines that will never have to be replaced again.
 
#126 ·
Labor hours to replace lines:

View attachment 47529

I think they were giving you a very high quote on the labor. But as others have said, do it yourself and get lines that will never have to be replaced again.
Using your time chart to do everything (6.7 hrs) that works out to a quote of $103.73/hr for labor.....:cookoo[1]:
 
#127 ·
#128 · (Edited)
I have a 2007 GMC and on the way to work one day this past week.....the lower trans cooler line blew out completely......All the Transynd ATF was lost. I was on a down hill section of road.....listening to the new Rush CD......and was totally unaware of the line blowing out. I came to a stop light and when the light changed the truck was bucking and slamming the trans in and out of gear and I coasted into a convenience store. ATF pouring out so it was obvious what happened. Towed it to my work shop just down the street. Dropped the skid plate and plastic shield......Rubber hose completely seperated from the metal line at the crimp. I replaced this line myself about 2 years with a new one from GM as the original started to leak......I got another new one this week and decided I had to fix this in a better way as I use the truck to tow a racecar trailer and a pickup camper. I went to a truck parts shop today and had them make me 3 lines to replace the stock rubber sections. I will cut off the stock criimp area and add nuts and sleeves and flare the lines. I measured the rubber sections on each line and matched that length. JIC 37 degree male ends and 5/8'ths hydraulic hose that is way better than the OEM stuff. It will take a few hours to get these made to fit and install but once I'm done......this issue will be history.

Total cost will be about $150 for the lines and fittings......I bought one new line from GM for a temporary fix and that line was about 30-40 bucks.....I still have the one I took off 2 years ago as I saved the metal sections.....$75 for a case of Dexron VI ATF......

I changed the ATF to Transynd at 50,000 miles and changed filters and added a deep pan from Allison...All that oil made a heck of a trail.......I went back and retraced my tracks to see where the line actually popped.......

GM sucks......the new hose is just the same junk as the orginal and the one that just puked......

I was lucky....I was close to work and did not hurt the trans. It did light the check engine light but again I was lucky as someone at work has a code scanner and cable arraingement that uses and IPhone.....We scanned it and turned the light off in two minutes.....Showed it as a transmission control fault....

The truck is an '07 GMC Classic with an LBZ and 60,000 miles on it. I have had a number of issues with this truck. Other than the Duramax power I am pretty disappointed with it and I have had it 3 years.....
 
#129 ·
Doing oil change and found tie rod end hit steel cooler line in hard right turns and is mashed but working . Will try a dealer first and tell them it's an ongoing problem. I think I will go to a hydraulic supply and get them to measure SS wrapped hoses and make up ends and run them full distance and eliminate the steel one.. I'm sick of Chevy.
 
#130 ·
If you live in any of these areas try this company and buy Parker SS wrapped hoses. MAKE Sure they do not rub anything of clamp them with the proper rubber lined clamps. If you do this according to Aircraft practices, 1/8 in clearance and where they cant move around more than necessary, they will last longer than your truck.
 
#132 ·
I haven't replaced my lines but started this seekend. Worked about 6 hrs getting them off. Cut the rubber hoses and removed them that way. I havent removed the lower radiator line and want to know how in the world others have done it. Have liner out of fender and cannot get a bite on it. I have a set of line wrenches you can turn with a 3/8 drive and it wont fit . Cant figure how to remove inter cooler line far enough down. Have grille out and lines from cooler are removed. Whats the catch?
 
#133 ·
Are we talking about the same lines? These are easy to remove and reinstall, maybe 2 hours maximum for a full replacement? You don't need wrenches at all to remove the lines from their respective "quick connect" fittings, just remove the little hairclip looking thing and pull the line out. You will need to remove the clamp that fixes the lines to the engine block, and some various shrouding up front so you can weasel them out. Admittedly my truck is an 8.1 not a Duramax, but I can't imagine they're that wildly different.
 
#134 ·
OK will look at it, I uscrewed the fittings as Iam replacing them. Thanks BRB


In aviation, the job is not finished til you draw blood.
 
#135 ·
Yup! You're right but I still gotta get it off as I'm replacing them with Madjacks and it looks like you use his adapter to the hose ends.
 
#136 ·
leaking transmission lines

I changed the oil in my Silverado today and noticed a fluid lead under the front end. After closer inspection, I found the leak appeared to be from the crimps on the transmission cooler lines. I checked the internet and found many people here had posted about the same problem. I then found the NHTSA website and found there were a few complaints listed there as well. I am encouraging everybody that has had a problem to post a complaint there as well, hoping to get GM to accept responsibility for this issue. It only takes a few minutes and it may help all of us.

Thanks for letting me have my two cents worth.
 
#137 ·
See if alligatorperformance.com has the Parker hoses. Simple permanent fix for reasonable price and Parkers are used on hvy eqp and aircraft.
 
#138 ·
I'm 641/2 yrs old and still a Jr member. LOL.
 
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