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Old 01-17-2013, 01:03 PM   eBay Motors  #11 (permalink)
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What had happened was!!

Not a bad job at all though. Just did mine a bit back. I got a really bad squeak when turning to one direction and it was annoying. Checked it out and it was shot. Definitely need a big torch wrench and a 36mm as stated
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:09 PM   eBay Motors  #12 (permalink)
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The shaft actually provided pre-load to the bearings and keeps them part of the unit. Without the shaft the two bearings will push themselves out of the units and the whole works come unglued in a most spectacular way. Best thing to do if your shaft goes is to cut the outboard boot and pull the end of the shaft off and leave it in the hub, you can pull the rest of it out to stop the binding but leave the outboard stub in.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:39 PM   eBay Motors  #13 (permalink)
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^^^ I think one of the guys here actually removes his cv axles when traveling cross country.
He replaces them with an old stub and the 36mm nut (don't know how he torques it down).

Apparently, the mpg increase is worth the effort.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:47 PM   eBay Motors  #14 (permalink)
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that is very possible.. like stated you can cut the boot and leave the outer on.. thats all it needs to hold the bearing together.. so yes you can travel all over with the outer part of the shaft still in and the nut on.. in his case he would torque it down as usual, the splines in there will stop it from turning when tightening
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:48 PM   eBay Motors  #15 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=werewolf;1906712]What had happened was!!

the gol darn wheel fell off on me!
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:23 PM   eBay Motors  #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rms View Post
^^^ I think one of the guys here actually removes his cv axles when traveling cross country.
He replaces them with an old stub and the 36mm nut (don't know how he torques it down).

Apparently, the mpg increase is worth the effort.
I WOULD NOT DO THAT!!!!!! Had a guy on DD took his axels out for summer within 3000 miles he was replacing the front wheel berings.Depending on who made your hubs, some hub makers depend on the side presure to keep the bering tight and support it.take that out and next thing you know the wheels are laying over.



Sent from a black cloud and the smell of burnt rubber.
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Originally Posted by hllbllylmsne
Sounds like you screwed up the seat to steering wheel linkage, no real fix for it, sorry
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:23 PM   eBay Motors  #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman_gq View Post
The shaft actually provided pre-load to the bearings and keeps them part of the unit. Without the shaft the two bearings will push themselves out of the units and the whole works come unglued in a most spectacular way. Best thing to do if your shaft goes is to cut the outboard boot and pull the end of the shaft off and leave it in the hub, you can pull the rest of it out to stop the binding but leave the outboard stub in.
Oops guess I should have read this before posting


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11.64 @117
Originally Posted by hllbllylmsne
Sounds like you screwed up the seat to steering wheel linkage, no real fix for it, sorry
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:31 PM   eBay Motors  #18 (permalink)
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Where is a good place to go get a wheel hub at and whats a fair price for one?
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:51 PM   eBay Motors  #19 (permalink)
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It looks like the Dmax Store with the Kryptonite warranty (lifetime) at $199.00 is the way to go.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:53 PM   eBay Motors  #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by boostnlb7 View Post
that is very possible.. like stated you can cut the boot and leave the outer on.. thats all it needs to hold the bearing together.. so yes you can travel all over with the outer part of the shaft still in and the nut on.. in his case he would torque it down as usual, the splines in there will stop it from turning when tightening
Lol - right, with the tire on the ground. For some reason, was thinking of the thing on a jackstand.
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