Cranks wont start. - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
01-04.5 LB7 Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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Cranks wont start.

Hey, I have a 2003 Silverado 2500 hd 6.6. I recent bought it used with 270k miles on it and a blown engine but was told it has a new transmission (the transfer case is obviously brand new transmission possibly a rebuild probably nothing to do with my issue). Engine was installed wouldn't start as per the mechanic he ended using a drill pump to get the fuel to the engine (the primer bump was bad he didn't know that or couldn't tell as it appeared to function).

I was driving it home (25 miles) and made it half way (12 miles) it started to over heat maybe 240 degrees or so, no warnings came on I pulled over and saw that the radiator hoses we hard as a rock. Called a tow truck got it home changed a clogged radiator (clogged to the point I couldn't get the coolant out). After that the truck started right up and I took it for a test drive.

Maybe 2 minutes in the truck turns off while driving. Wait a few seconds starts right back up. I get it home and start it up again idles strong then cuts off. After a few attempts of idling it the idle gets ruffer and ruffer then it will no longer start.

I go to the fuel primer crack it open ton of air. Messed with it and realized that this primer was likely not functioning correctly and ordered one. I put the new one in tonight starts up after a few attempts then dies. ran for about 10 seconds. Now it wont start at all. Tried priming the system several times. just cranks but wont start. I know the diesel in it is around a year + old and is half a tank and the mechanic poured in another 5 gallons. I did notice the connector on fuel filter was broken off no idea what it is obviously needs a new one but I doubt it is the cause. Any help would be well appreciated.


Also assume the mechanic wasn't all that great.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 09:19 PM
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If it was the original fuel filter head, then yes, the primer probably didn't work well (or at all) and the o-rings are usually shot, and some of them develop cracks. A new one was certainly needed. The electrical connector is for a fuel heater in the filter head. It's already broken? The filter heads are known to leak there, too.

These trucks are getting old. The fuel is sucked all the way from the tank, through the filter head and filter, and to the CP3 pump. There are several sections of soft lines which start leaking (air in, not fuel out). The metal lines are also known to corrode and start leaking (my brother's 2003 corroded from the inside out).

Considered a cover-up band-aid by some, one solution is to add a lift pump as close to the fuel tank as possible. For diagnostic work, some rig up a cap with a nipple so they can gently pressurize the fuel tank (like up to 5 lbs.) and check for leaks. Some shove a shop vac and blow air into the tank.

Some have had problems with fuel filters with plastic housings. I always recommend Racor.

And of course, you could have other problems, but an air-tight fuel supply is definitely required.

2004.5 Silverado 3500 SRW 4x4, D/A (LLY), Ext. Cab, Long Bed
engineer837 aux rad, TxC CAI, LBZ MP, Scangauge II, Nicktane aux filter head, KD lift pump, 2008 PS pump, 2011 hydroboost, Frederico Swaybars, Rancho 9000XL, Torklift StableLoads, BFG AT/KO2, Lance 835 Camper often in the bed.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake111 View Post
If it was the original fuel filter head, then yes, the primer probably didn't work well (or at all) and the o-rings are usually shot, and some of them develop cracks. A new one was certainly needed. The electrical connector is for a fuel heater in the filter head. It's already broken? The filter heads are known to leak there, too.

These trucks are getting old. The fuel is sucked all the way from the tank, through the filter head and filter, and to the CP3 pump. There are several sections of soft lines which start leaking (air in, not fuel out). The metal lines are also known to corrode and start leaking (my brother's 2003 corroded from the inside out).

Considered a cover-up band-aid by some, one solution is to add a lift pump as close to the fuel tank as possible. For diagnostic work, some rig up a cap with a nipple so they can gently pressurize the fuel tank (like up to 5 lbs.) and check for leaks. Some shove a shop vac and blow air into the tank.

Some have had problems with fuel filters with plastic housings. I always recommend Racor.

And of course, you could have other problems, but an air-tight fuel supply is definitely required.

could old diesel be my problem?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 08:10 AM
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Probably not, but could be. I had a 6.2 l diesel suburban that sat for 8 years. It was full when I parked it and only had half a tank when I went to retrieve it. It started right up, but smoked pretty good. The diesel was real oily after 8 years. It something in your fuel delivery system that’s letting air in.

Get a lift pump or design your on. But it could be a hole in the pickup lines in the tank or on top of the tank.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-30-2019, 01:01 AM
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So Robert, how’s it going?

I’m the official “follow up on posts without resolutions” guy so I have a fiduciary duty to make sure no problems presented here fall off page one without a solution. .

You know I’m lyin’ since that happens way too often here, but not usually because the crew quits trying.

Anyway, regarding lift pumps, I’m not a big fan in OEM engines and discussions I’ve had with Bosch engineers indicate that unless you have modified your ride so that it requires higher fuel delivery, the CP3 will work just fine.

Since, as others have speculated, there may be a air leak on the fuel delivery side, it would seem a lift pump is an expensive way to find it,
when pressurizing the tank will work just as well .

And has been said, these old girls are developing lots of “soft part” issues, so interior deterioration of fuel lines is also high on the list of possibilities.

Anyway, welcome to the Forum!

And since I’m also the official scold here, please fill in your signature line!

Best

2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD SLE ExtCab CA Emissions; 155k; Allison 1000 w/Transynd X2 Flush & Fill; 8' bed; AFE/CAI; MBRP 4" Exhaust; Side Tint, 33% VLT, rear, Limo; Smittybilt Stainless Side Nerf Bars; Sprayed-in Bed Liner; MadJack Fuel Filter Access Door; Regular Used Oil Analysis (latest available on request), Blackstone Labs; EGT/Boost Gauges; Dual Chrome Dipsticks, JC Whitney; Stainless Steel fuel filter head bleeder screw; New WP and Hydroboost; Billet Aluminum Fuel Filter Housing Spacer; Professionally repaired instrument cluster (new steppers and lamps); Does anybody ever read this s%#t?; Injectors under warranty @ 70k; 2nd set DIY @ 155k
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-30-2019, 04:51 AM Thread Starter
 
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Got it figured out, now the turbo is circulating exhaust back into the intake I assume this is due to turbine play and it needs to be replaced. I am getting white smoke at start up then blue smoke, I’m hoping it’s just the turbo.

Also there it we air in the lines but no leak. There is a valve that is higher up in the system I pushed on it and air poured out. Started right up after.
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