OBD scanner not connecting/no reset - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
01-04.5 LB7 Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-14-2019, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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OBD scanner not connecting/no reset

2004 Duramax 2500. I was unable to register my car because I had a P380 code. I found and fixed the bad glow plug and checked that the circuit was good. The scanner i borrowed from Autozone still reads the code (so I know the port is good) but doesn't do resets, and the 2 scanners I've bought won't connect to the ECM for some reason. I've tried several reset tricks I've seen on YT but to no avail, the code remains. AAMCO won't do resets unless you let them work on your vehicle but since I've already don't the repair I really don't want to spend money for them to redo my troubleshooting.

Any advice aside from spending hundreds on a more advanced scanner?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-14-2019, 03:14 PM
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It may be that you still have a problem, as to why the code re-appears.

Quote:
I found and fixed the bad glow plug and checked that the circuit was good.
P0380 Glow Plug Circ Error Circ A, relates to wiring/power to the circuit....

Bad GP/module would be P067x
What did you replace?

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 08:14 AM
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Have you tried disconnecting the batteries?

2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD LT
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hook'em_Horns! View Post
It may be that you still have a problem, as to why the code re-appears.



P0380 Glow Plug Circ Error Circ A, relates to wiring/power to the circuit....

Bad GP/module would be P067x
What did you replace?
I neglected to mention that this is a California emissions vehicle.

At this point I've only replaced a glow plug and checked the wires from the module to the plugs to confirm continuity. All show about 1.6 ohms, rather than the open circuit that showed on the bad one.

I borrowed a better scanner from a coworker which was able to do the reset but the code came back after a couple of miles, at which point I checked everything again. It all still showed good, so the only thing left is the module.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yes, it was one a dozen "tricks" that didn't work.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 02:00 AM
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Quote:
but the code came back after a couple of miles,
on a hot engine?
Also, I saw where the intake heater was part of that circuit too. Might take a look-see there.
But on a hot engine, both of those shouldn't be relevant, I would think.
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Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
 
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I've just learned that the 175A fuse might be the culprit. Gonna pop the fuse box off and check that out before I do anything.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Okay so if I'm correct the positive wire on the controller is constantly 12v even with the engine off, which would also indicate that the 175A fuse would be good, yes?

Well, I changed out the controller and still get the P380 code. The gp circuits still show good. What am I missing?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 04:31 PM
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....and the heater?

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-21-2019, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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I just checked the intake heater. It showed 0.9 ohms and I saw 5.6v on the lead when I started the engine. Is that normal? I've not found anything about the inlet heater except how to do a delete plug, which won't work here in California as it's part of the emissions.
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