brake and shift issues after hydroboost repair - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
01-04.5 LB7 Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

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  • 1 Post By 407driver
  • 3 Post By Hook'em_Horns!
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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brake and shift issues after hydroboost repair

Hey guys, 2003 with ~300k miles. First problem was power steering leak from hydroboost and master cylinder. So I replaced the 2 seals in hydroboost with new ones, followed all directions and put it back properly. Lifted truck up and bled the power steering, adding fluid when needed.

So here's the problem, when I start the truck everything seems fine then a few seconds later the brake pedal starts shuddering back and forth and then stays depressed. Pushing on it doesn't seem to do anything or go any much further down than it already is. (rear brake lights turn on if that means anything). I am getting power steering though, I am able to turn my wheel freely back and forth. The other issue is that when I move the shifter into reverse or drive, nothing happens and truck doesn't move. The engine does seem to know, the idle and noises are different when shifted.

I'm at a lost here. I've taken it apart again and redid it, just incase I didn't align the rod correctly in hydroboost but still same problems. The only thing I can think to do is just buy a new (or rebuilt) hydroboost. Unless there is something obvious I am missing I would appreciate it.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 08:40 PM
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Just as reman HB fail in short time, trying a rebuild is a failed endeavor too.

New unit from Rock is the only way to go....no core charge, no parts to swap over, no going back in to contortionist mode playing under the dash.

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-18-2020, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hook'em_Horns! View Post
Just as reman HB fail in short time, trying a rebuild is a failed endeavor too.

New unit from Rock is the only way to go....no core charge, no parts to swap over, no going back in to contortionist mode playing under the dash.
As much as I would like to save some cash, I should just get a a new unit and not worry about it. Hell after looking at rock auto I probably am now. I was going to go to one of the chains and get the $250 rebuilt one, but there's a new unit for basically that price after core charge.

I'll still have to enter contortionist mode and do some mechanics yoga to remove and install it though, I'm almost used to it now doing it twice.

I'm just nervous that the problem is still going to be there, and it's one of the lines is clogged or something.
It's a start though. Thanks
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 03:40 AM
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Make your life easier, remove the driver's seat....4 bolts/nuts, unplug and out she comes. Use a 12-pt socket on the reverse torx + heads.



You might want to consider using the 2011 LML version, $190/no core
Only mod to adapt is to enlarge the hole on the plunger rod, so the brake switch seats properly. A step bit, or search using the LML HB, you'll find the exact x/64" drill bit needed.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2251&jsn=2251

2007 LBZ 3500 LT3 DRW Crew Cab, Sulastics, Putnam XDR 15K, B&W 30K-Turnover GN+Companion, Ride-Rite Air...EFI'd by Rob
2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"

Last edited by Hook'em_Horns!; 01-19-2020 at 03:43 AM.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-19-2020, 06:39 AM
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While doing your HB and MC it is also a very good idea to change ALL of the lines too.

You have to disconnect them, why not replace them for a few $$ and save yourself the aggravation of having a leak, possibly damaging your new HB and doing all that work all over again.

You are ordering the HB from rock, just add the lines/hoses at the same time and save on shipping as well.

It would also be a good time to add a Power Steering Fluid Cooler to help dissipate all the heat that HB unit puts in the fluid. you might recognize the guy who wrote this all those years ago:

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/d...id-cooler.html

Also do a PS/HB flush and if you want to go crazy good and get yoru brakes tip top shape, the brake bleed as well while you are at it:

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/0...ost-flush.html

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/0...tem-flush.html

Just one and done. You will be amazed at what condition thsoe fluids are in when you flush them, and your steering and brakes will both feel much firmer and effective.
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FASS 95 Lift Pump (with Baldwin filters), Edge Insight CTS Monitor on a Windshield Mount, Nicktane Fuel Filter Adapter w/ CAT 306-9199 UHE tertiary fuel filter, Bilstein 5100 Stock Height, Bushwacker Bed Rail Caps, AMP Research Bedstep, Fumoto oil drain valve, Dorman PS Oil cooler, Pioneer AVIC 7200NEX GPS/Stereo, Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Bags.

Last edited by 407driver; 01-19-2020 at 06:59 AM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
 
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So I ended up getting a reman one from rockauto. I did not see any new boosters for sale on there and I needed truck running ASAP. Everything is hooked up and running amazingly, brakes feel completely new and steering is great. After undoing and installing 3 times, I have it nailed down. This last time took me less than an hour. I'm unsure what failed in the old hydroboost, since I replaced the seals which cures the fix all the other times I've read about. But at this point the reman unit is working and no visible leaks (so far).


Quote:
Originally Posted by 407driver View Post
While doing your HB and MC it is also a very good idea to change ALL of the lines too.

You have to disconnect them, why not replace them for a few $$ and save yourself the aggravation of having a leak, possibly damaging your new HB and doing all that work all over again.

You are ordering the HB from rock, just add the lines/hoses at the same time and save on shipping as well.

It would also be a good time to add a Power Steering Fluid Cooler to help dissipate all the heat that HB unit puts in the fluid. you might recognize the guy who wrote this all those years ago:

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/d...id-cooler.html

Also do a PS/HB flush and if you want to go crazy good and get yoru brakes tip top shape, the brake bleed as well while you are at it:

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/0...ost-flush.html

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/0...tem-flush.html

Just one and done. You will be amazed at what condition thsoe fluids are in when you flush them, and your steering and brakes will both feel much firmer and effective.
I was in a time crunch so sadly I did not get a chance to do these extra things. Hopefully soon I will be able to, thanks for the links.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lb7o3 View Post
So I ended up getting a reman one from rockauto. I did not see any new boosters for sale on there and I needed truck running ASAP. Everything is hooked up and running amazingly, brakes feel completely new and steering is great. After undoing and installing 3 times, I have it nailed down. This last time took me less than an hour. I'm unsure what failed in the old hydroboost, since I replaced the seals which cures the fix all the other times I've read about. But at this point the reman unit is working and no visible leaks (so far).




I was in a time crunch so sadly I did not get a chance to do these extra things. Hopefully soon I will be able to, thanks for the links.
With that $35 tool from HF the brakes and HB bleed and flush will only take an hour or so without any other help. Just DO NOT get the fluids mixed or your brakes will very quickly fail,and it is a very costly repair.

2008 Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel
FASS 95 Lift Pump (with Baldwin filters), Edge Insight CTS Monitor on a Windshield Mount, Nicktane Fuel Filter Adapter w/ CAT 306-9199 UHE tertiary fuel filter, Bilstein 5100 Stock Height, Bushwacker Bed Rail Caps, AMP Research Bedstep, Fumoto oil drain valve, Dorman PS Oil cooler, Pioneer AVIC 7200NEX GPS/Stereo, Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Bags.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hook'em_Horns! View Post
Make your life easier, remove the driver's seat....4 bolts/nuts, unplug and out she comes. Use a 12-pt socket on the reverse torx + heads.



You might want to consider using the 2011 LML version, $190/no core
Only mod to adapt is to enlarge the hole on the plunger rod, so the brake switch seats properly. A step bit, or search using the LML HB, you'll find the exact x/64" drill bit needed.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2251&jsn=2251
You must be giant. I did mine over the weekend and it was so easy there's no way I'd pull the seat. Some reading glasses and a light to see how the clip comes off, a cordless impact with extension and swivel, brap brap brap brap... done, son.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
You must be giant.
May be. My shoulder width and chest size limit me to a one arm access, plus the knee to pavement action...fun stuff

Not sure why you think two nuts and two bolts is a monumental task in removing the seat. All kinds of stuff there to find, clean and retrieve too after losses for years.

I lay down my blank-y over the mounts, climb into comfort on my back, with my legs propped up in the back seat.
Without the scream of the little palm sized air ratchet, I might of dozed off, it was so comfy.

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2008 LMM 3500WT DRW Crew Cab, 8 'Flat/GN, Workforce Alum Toolbox, Ride-Rite Air

Use-ta Haves 2006-6.0 3500 WT DRW ExCab Flatbed, 2005-LLY 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab, 2002-LB7 3500 LS DRW Crew Cab
I Live my life in such a way that when my feet hit the floor in the morning...Satan shudders & says "Oh shit, he's awake!"
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-21-2020, 04:30 PM
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Compared to crawling in a dock leveler to work, especially weld and grind, it was a piece of cake. No rough concrete, trash, creepy crawlies, or lots of cold hard steel to bust your head on or smear your fingers into a paste. I laid sideways with my feet on the ground. The truck was up high for a front end rebuild so I didn't have to put my knees on the ground. It's a service truck so it gets pretty filthy. I take the seats out a couple times a year to scrub out the truck so I know it's not difficult, was just unnecessary for me. I guess I'm used to punishing jobs, lol.
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