CEL P0102 and torque converter noise - Chevy and GMC Duramax Diesel Forum
04.5-05 LLY Duramax Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission, Etc.

 
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 7
CEL P0102 and torque converter noise

new to the duramax world coming from a 7.3 and 6.0. Just bought the truck a week ago 2004.5, 165,000 miles very clean. When I bought the truck the owner gave me a brand new MAF sensor and S&B filter. He stated that the truck would throw the P0102 code and he thought it was one of the two. Well it is not I replaced both the sensor and filter (S&B CAI, LBZ mouth piece). It will throw the code for a day or so, then go away, then come back. I saw that people were stating to check the fingerstick due to it throwing the code. There is no fingerstick but I found a black box wired up just like how the fingersticks are. Not sure if this is a older version. EGR is blocked. Checked the wiring it had the crappy in line connectors figured it was that and put butt connectors on them. I cant solder for anything. But will still throw the code after a couple shut downs and starts and then will disappear after a few lol. Not sure to really go from here truck. I have looked at all the fittings on the intake and they appear to be tight but ill pull the intake off and reseat everything. truck does have EFI.

Also the truck has a ATS converter. After the truck gets warm it makes a rattling sound in the housing. But once the converter gets pressure the sound goes away like drive or reverse. but in park/ natural you hear it. I have read that it could be the clutch plates that these converters are to be noisy. Then I also read it could be a tiny bit loose. Should I just drop the downpipe and check. It looks really tight to try and tighten the converter from the peek hole even if the downpipe is out of the way (I don't know how I would even see it lol). I was able to put a screwdriver in the porthole and was able to move the converter a tiny bit that's why I think the bolts may have backed out.

Sorry for the long post but have no experience with Duramaxs at all.
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 06:07 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Walton, WV
Posts: 9,275
If you think the bolts on the converter are loose better look at it and get it fixed as it can become a very expensive fix if one comes out while the engine is running.

2001 2500HD 4WD EXTENDED CAB LS,
S&B CAI, 4" STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST, EFI LIVE FROM ATP TRUCKS, EDGE CTS, PPE BOOST VALVE, BANKS INTERCOOLER PIPE, AIR DOG II 165, REBUILT TRANNY WITH SUNCOAST KIT, TRANSGO SHIFTKIT AND BILLIT TORQUE CONVERTER, NEW UPGRADED TAILSHAFT, PUMP RUB FIX ON TRANSFER WITH NEW ALUMINUM TAIL SHAFT, NEW TOW MIRRORS, NEW GAGE HEAVY DUTY FRONT AND REAR BUMPERS, BEANS SUMP, FUMOTO VALVE, RARE PARTS TIE RODS WITH COGNITO PISK, MAD JACK FUEL FILTER ACCESS DOOR, STAINLESS STEEL SPEED BLEEDERS.
2011 GMC 3500HD DUALLY Welding Bed, 4WD CREW CAB, 4" downpipe back exhaust, def delete, egr delete, with new LB7 up pipe, pcv reroute, Fass 150, EFI live with DSP 5, HSP CAI. Air Lift Air bags. PPEI transmission tune.
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